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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just completed install of an engine harness. But I think the wires to the starter are too close to the header. Did I feed them wrong? What is the correct way to feed these so they don't melt? Or, should they be wrapped or shielded?
 

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Can't tell you about a 72 but a factory assembly manual is a good place to look. If you don't know they have them at most of the suppliers, around $25.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have one, but it is lousy! And I'm being generous with that statement. Do the ones you mention have clear diagrams?
 

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^
Assembly manual probably wouldn't help much anyway since the car didn't come with headers.

Originally the wiring was close to the firewall and had a short piece of conduit to keep it away from the exhaust.

You'll just have to figure out a way to protect the wires from heat, maybe slip a short piece of thin wall conduit over it and keep them as far away as possible ??

I'm surprised someone else hasn't offered a suggestion since I'm sure many people here have had the same problem with headers.
I never run headers myself cause they are a PITA.
 

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The 72 guys got cheated just a little. There wasn't a conduit running behind the engine but that idea would probably work.
Nope, no headers on my 72. However, something like this should work. Because of the large eyelet lug on the solenoid to horn relay wire you will run into a small problem. You will either have to get a large enough diameter sleeve for that lug to pass through...or disconnent that wire from the horn relay side and unwrap the engine harness to get that wire in. The wire has a smaller lug on the horn relay.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/aero6.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks once again, I greatly appreciate the tips.
I'm going to pick up an original bracket that was on the starter (supposedly for the same reason). We bought the car with headers - (it's my son's car) won't give 'em up. He's 17! John, thanks for the link, I'll be more than likely order some just in case.
 

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Drew,

This is "funny"...the only time I had to take the 72 Elk in to a repair shop was because I could not find an intermittent problem that was shutting down the engine: one of the starter wires was coming into contact with the pass. side header.

I repaired it myself by using a high temperature spark plug wire cover. This cover had a high temp. coating on it and a braided fiberglass padding. Because it was designed for spark plug wires, it had a large ID that allow the wire lug to go right through.

Ricardo
 

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Originally posted by Dean:
^
Assembly manual probably wouldn't help much anyway since the car didn't come with headers.

Originally the wiring was close to the firewall and had a short piece of conduit to keep it away from the exhaust.

You'll just have to figure out a way to protect the wires from heat, maybe slip a short piece of thin wall conduit over it and keep them as far away as possible ??

I'm surprised someone else hasn't offered a suggestion since I'm sure many people here have had the same problem with headers.
I never run headers myself cause they are a PITA.
Guess I was thinking more of the positive lead going to the battery, probably because I searched the manual to see how it was run. The one to the ignition didn't seem to be a problem for me and I do have headers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The harness I bought has a bracket that gets bolted to the bell housing (top right corner)and fits right in. From there, the wires can only be weaved one way to the starter solenoid due to the remaining length. What I did today was cut a piece of PVC pipe about 4-5" long, fed the wires through, laid it on top of the starter. It seems to be o.k. and looks like there is enough space between the header and the PVC. Until I can get some of the THERMAL FIBREGLASS HEAT TUBES, this should do!
 
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