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Thought I would post a quick update to let you know it has been started. After the VATS was disabled it fired right up. Still have a lot of work to get it back on the road but I'm happy. Wednesday it gets exhaust done after that I'll be able to run it more without irritating the neighbors. The belt alignment was terrible finally have everything running true by placing different thickness spacers on the idler, alternator and AC mountings.
One thing I did not expect to have trouble with was the transmission. For reasons not yet clear to me the electrical connector leaks with the harness plug installed. Remove the connector the leak stops. Plug the old connector in and no leak :confused: Not sure what to do but only have tomorrow to resolve it before exhaust pipes are in the way. I'm going to call the company that built the harness to see if they have any suggestions. Anybody here have any?

LQ4 first start open manifolds, no O2's, no MAF but it's running :)
Great article, I live in Happy Jack AZ, and I'm starting to restore my 72 Chevelle Concors Wagon. I see you didn't use tubular A arms. Is there really any benefit to them. Just looking for a nice smooth ride.

Thanks,
 

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Great article, I live in Happy Jack AZ, and I'm starting to restore my 72 Chevelle Concors Wagon. I see you didn't use tubular A arms. Is there really any benefit to them. Just looking for a nice smooth ride.

Thanks,
I’m in Surprise (west Phoenix). Most Tubular a-arms will come with poly bushings. Those will ride a little harsher than rubber, but have less deflection when cornering. If you are going for smooth ride, I’d reuse stock arms with new rubber bushings. The stock suspension is pretty compliant, and should ride pretty plush. That being said, the stock suspension is NOT a performance suspension, so if you are looking for cornering abilities. Then I’d suggest some changes to the stock suspension.
Steve
 

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Hoping to start back on my 72 soon. Finishing a DOD delete, cam swap and converter on a '15 Caprice LS 6.0 right now.
I've decided to actually do a Concours Estate clone. (Bought a parts car with all the trim a couple of years ago).

My 72 was purchases from Pete several years ago and I was making good progress, but stopped for a couple of years.

I'm going LQ4/4l80e with mine. A BTR Stage 3 Truck cam, 799 heads, Jakes Performance Stage 2 kit in the 4l80e with a 3K converter all controlled by a Holley Terminator X Max system. Will have 355 gears.

Was thinking about going back to the original tan interior, but Hinshaws said it's a 1 year wait on door panels and I already have a new set of black ones, so I stay black on the interior. I have been thinking about doing a tan plaid insert in the seats to tie in with the wood grain exterior. Color will be a 71 Code 43 Lime Green metallic. Already have about all the parts, just need to get my butt in gear.

Seeing builds like yours helps with the motivation.
 

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I have rubber in my wagon front and rear. Rides great. Also added bigger sway bars, 1.25" front and 1" rear. Improved handling dramatically and still has a smooth ride.
 

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short update, the original coils need to be replaced due to age and heat. They intermittently fire through the housing to the valve covers and the rear seal cover is leaking from somewhere. Getting anxious to get all of the little bugs worked out so I can go for a drive. Running poorly it still feels more powerful than the big block.
 
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My carpet was purchased from Hinshaws. I don't remember the brand.
 

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Philip as I recall, a power steering pulley for a mid nineties V6 Camaro clears your steering box and the grooves align with your other belt driven accessories. Good luck sorting things out.
 

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Gene your probably correct. It was a low compression fuel injected engine from a 99 motor home.
Ha, either way, 20+ mpg , or smiles per gallon, still beats 12 man! DRIVE ON! My contention is that only BBCs with compression and a mild build can squeeze decent mpg, not 8:1s. All that computer tuning business scares me tho.
 
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I'm using a one inch smaller power steering pump pulley from an S-10 truck to clear my steering box but we have two part numbers here and only one works and it is stamped into the pulley - GM pn 14100597NU. Of course, you will then need a one inch shorter serpentine belt.

Computer tuning business frightening?? I'm not much good at doing tunes to match big cam, intake or compression changes because my EC never required it. But I can kill off vehicle anti theft security, the rear O2 sensors, make the speedometer accurate and anything else that might erroneously set a check engine light - and do it for free - no HP Tuners credits required. It'll run just fine. Its not that hard with all of the knowledge available on the Internet and if this Kentucky country boy public school educated guy can do it, anybody can.

Rick
 
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Hinshaw's Chevelle Parts and Restoration Services.
336 586 0802

looks like their website expred. I see they're on facebook.
 
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Found I could order direct from Auto Custom Carpets Inc. at a greatly reduced price.
Putting my front end back together. Looking for a place I can buy springs for my wagon? Don't want a tail drager. Should I upgrade the springs? Any advice on the shocks? Putting the 350 engine back in, and I have AC.

Thanks for the help.
 
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