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What's that steering box out of ? A 93-98 what ?
Also if you don't use the OE pitman arm from a 68-72 Chevelle with POWER STEERING then your swap won't work.My best guess without knowing anything more is that you have the wrong pitman arm if everything else remains the same.
If you do have the correct pitman arm and the linkage isn't binding up on the frame then it's possible you don't have a good steering box or the pump is bad.We'll need more info to help you further.
 
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Pics show both inner tie rod ends hitting the frame hard .Either the wrong pitman arm was used, or the wrong center link/steering linkage including the idler arm is incorrect for this application. You must have the pitman arm for the chevelle power steering application.
 

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Bob,I just reread your answer and I agree that the center link looks to be on backwards with the offsets forcing the inner tie rod ends too far rearward, thus interfering with the frame. Chevelle7272,Did you completely remove the centerlink during the swap or just from the pitman arm?
 

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Are the tie rods torqued to 35 lbs? The stud looks a little short into the nut. I can't tell by the picture if your tie rods are hitting the frame.

When you drop the center link see if you can turn the steering box by hand. Remove the plugs in the hydraulic lines, but put a rag over the fittings and a catch can under the box. She may be a spitter.o_O

You might gain a little clearance by loosening the box and prying forward on it while you tighten.

Is that your original center link? If it's a CCP, Chuck it if you have clearance issues.

Measure center hole to hole on your pitman arm and Idler arm. Tomorrow I can measure mine when I get home in the pm. Unless someone else can check theirs before then.

In the pictures, notice the drop to clear the oil pan and the short end of the centerlink is closest to the steering box. I don't think flipping is an option. From what I can see you have it correct. Normally, with both tires off the ground, I can turn the steering by cranking on the tire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did not torque tie rods to 35 lbs I just hit it with the 3/8 electric gun, both tie rods are about 1/4 close to the frame but the center link is pretty much laying right on the frame which ia preventing any movement, I raised the vehicle to free up the wheels to test the turning and no luck, yes the center link is the original one not the CCP
 

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I took another look at your original pics, and it appears that you can't reverse the centerlink as they are not completely symmetrical. It may be my imagination or my aging eyesight, but its possible that the centerlink was damaged in the past causing the inner tie rod ends to be pushed rearward. However, If this was the case, I would think you would have had prior issues.The centerlink looks to be further back toward the frame that I remember them being.
 

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Pitman arm measures about 5 1/2 from hole to hole
I have a 70 and appear to be at 5 inches to 5 1/8 inch on both the pitman arm and idler. The bar appears straight between the tie rod connectors. Yours appears to have a slight bow in some of the pictures. I have enough room to get my finger between the bar and frame. I have a deep Milodon 7 qt oil pan and about 3/8 inch clearance between top of bar and pan.

I'm not saying my measurements are 100% correct as I was lying under the car in the dark, but I measured 10 times and came up with the 5 to 5 1/8 inch on the parts as they were mounted in the car. The way each of us could measure differently could be the difference in the measurements because of the angled bolt holes, but I'm not sure.

I search this site and some online sources but can't find a single measurement for the parts. :mad: I did find one post here saying 68-72 center to center is 5 inches.
 
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