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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After searching on and off for a while, I finally decided to make the long roof plunge.

I found this 71 Concours about 4 hrs. away on Craigslist. Factory 350 AC car. Originally code 49 Antique Green.




Previous owner got a little aggressive with the cutoff wheel on the springs. First order of business was to swap front and rear springs to bring it up. I had some springs in my shop attic from my 71 2 door that I figured I swap out and cut as necessary to get the ride height about where I want it. They were new 6 cylinder springs, so I may go back later and upgrade to an aftermarket spring for better handling. Front end was now to high with the 6 cylinder springs, so I removed 1-1/2 coils and reinstalled. I believe the rear are 1" lowering Global West. On the wagon the rear sat too low, so I added Air Lift 1000 bags on the rear to get the height where I wanted it.
Current Ride Height:


At some point, the original transmission was apparently swapped out for a T-400. When I loaded the car on the trailer, I noticed that the trans was slipping some, but figured it was just low on fluid due to leaking seals. Unfortunately fluid addition didn't help. I pulled the pan to find a large amount of clutch debris. No big deal, just so happened to have another T-400 setting in my storage shed. So with the help of my friend, the trans was swapped.

While I was under the car, I wanted to determine the gear ratio. What I found had me scratching my head. The car has a 1971 Buick 10 bolt 8.5. According to the code on the axle tube, its 2.52 ratio. I guess the rear was it swapped as well during the car's life.

Haven't really made up my mind exactly what path I'm going to take on this one. I've got a complete 4.8/4l60e sitting in the shop that I'm debating on putting in the car, but the 350 that's in it now runs really smooth. I think for the time being, I'm going to try to get it road worthy and drive it for a while before I make a drive train decision.

As far as a color decision, the car has green interior, with new carpet, headliner (uninstalled), and newly upholstered seats. So, I think I will either go back the factory Antique Green or I may paint it Code 43 Lime Green Metallic. I've already got 3 quarts of the Lime Green Metallic Basecoat that I purchased for my two door before making the decision to paint it silver instead. If I do the antique green, I'm going with white stripes on a domed SS hood. I'll do black stripes if I go with the Lime Green.

Here's a picture of my two door:

 

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My wagon was a (wrecked ) 71, Now its a 70. I love the long roof rides........ And Larry the Cable said.... --- er ---- !
Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I really been debating on whether I want to keep the lowered big wheel look or raise it to stock height and put the factory style 15" SS wheels on it. I already have a set of nice factory wheels. The current wheel setup really doesn't have enough sidewall for me, even if I keep the 18/20 combo. It only has 25" (225/40/18) /27" (255/35/20) tires.
 

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I really been debating on whether I want to keep the lowered big wheel look or raise it to stock height and put the factory style 15" SS wheels on it. I already have a set of nice factory wheels. The current wheel setup really doesn't have enough sidewall for me, even if I keep the 18/20 combo.


Either way...it looks really good...


 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Now to address some problem areas.

Apparently, at some time during the cars life the captured nut for the driver's door strike broke. This is what the previous owner did to fix it. Permanently weld the strike in place.


And even worse, they didn't weld it in the right location, door needs you be adjusted in. I'll cover this repair in another post.

I also discovered that the front windshield was leaking. (Not a big deal since it was cracked and would be replaced). I also knew that there was some rust around the windshield that would need to be addressed, So I removed the windshield to determine how much repair work was needed.


The majority of the windshield area just had surface rust and pitting, but the upper driver's side area had rust through that will need repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Striker repair:

Got a little work done after church today.

I initially thought I could just grind down the welds after I removed the striker bolt, but then I realized that during the previous "fix" the person had cut away the metal and welded in a striker washer. I figured the easiest thing to do was to cut away the area and make a patch.
Cutting the area as large as I did allowed me to remove the captured nut "cage." I found that both spot welds had broken, allowing to nut to fall into the inner structure. It was easily retrieved using a magnet.


I made a patch panel using some 16 gauge sheet metal I had laying around.

Test fitting patch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cleaned up, and ready for weld through primer and the cage to be welded on. (I didn't get picture after I welded the cage, but originally it had two spot welds, I added two additional.
The two black marks indicate where the original spot welds would be located.


Repair being welded in:


Welding complete:



Some additional grinding will need to be done then a skim coat of filler to smooth things out and this portion of the project will be completed.

I purchased hinge roller and pin sets for the front doors.

I'll need to rebuild the driver's door hinge before I'm able to get the door properly adjusted. The passenger door hinge feels tight, with no movement and may only need the roller replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Haven't posted lately. I did get the rust repaired around the front windshield and a new windshield installed.

We I bought the car, the seller told me that it rust around the back windows that he had paid to have repaired. The stainless trim wasn't installed around the windows, but I assumed it was just due to the repair and primer work that had been done. When I tried to test fit the trim, I found that it wouldn't fit. Apparently, whoever did the repair work used panel adhesive to glue a this piece of sheet metal over the rust and filled in the gaps with bondo.

I probably should have walked away from the purchase when the seller had no "before" pictures, but what's done is done and I must move on. So, with little effort I managed to remove the "repair." Looks like I'll be rebuilding the entire area around the side windows

The first picture is what the area looked like when I got the car. The second and third show what was hidden beneath. This is actually one of the better areas.

At least it's a good excuse to go by a Metal Brake and a Stretcher/Shrinker.
 

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The rear side windows look ugly. Are there any patches available for that area?
Mine looked about the same. No patch panels are available, they will have to be made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Haven't updated recently. I put this project on hold. I bought Pete's 72 wagon toward the end of last year and have decided to make it my keeper. Once I have the 72 finished I'll get back on this one and doe the repairs right, paint it and put it up for sale to try to get my money back out of it. I'm going to put the 5.3/4l60e in the 72 I bought from Pete. I've started work on it and hopefully will start another build thread in the near future to update the progress on the 72.
 
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