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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I am buying parts as I find them at reasonable prices and am now wanting to buy an exhaust system for my restoration project. I am months away from needing it but what size do I want, 2", 2 1/2" or 3" ? What about the manufacturer? Has anyone used the cheap Summit? I want a no hassle setup that I can install on my 402. I plan to have the frame off when I do this. Also what headers will fit without banging and denting them, especially around the starter or steering box. Any suggestions? Thanks, Roland in NY
 

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I just installed dynomax cyclone headers on my 69. They fit perfect, I just had to trim the upper control arm bolts on the passenger side. I even changed my starter with no hassle, other than a 30lb starter:angry:

I also used 3" flowmaster tailpipes that i bought from autozone for $150. they worked pretty good. I think the 2.5" pipes would have been easier to deal with and they are only $105. from autozone.

I went with 3" for future motor upgrades.
 

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I put a set of Sterling coated Hooker Comp Headers form Jet Hot on my 71 Elky about 3000 miles ago they fit nice and still look like new . Just had to undo motor mounts and lfit 402 up a couple of inches so they would slide in on the drivers side, dont forget to remove the distributor cap it might hit fire wall . Also consider a mini-starter and Taylor remote solenoid to combat hot starts .



http://www.jet-hot.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Taz, I was at the starter alternator rebuild shop by me today and I asked him about the starter problems with the headers and he has the small starter that he sells for header / high torque applications. He explained to me that he rewires them for more torque plus the smaller the unit , the further away from the heat source. I also talked about the hard starts and no starts with the motor when hot and timing advanced and he guarenteed me that won't be an issue. So now I have to decide on the headers and pipes back. I am really leanig towards Flowmaster, 2 1/2". Any other suggestions are welcomed...........Thanks

Roland in NY
 

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I would think 2.5" is plenty on a 402. I have Dynomax headers to 2.5" H pipe exhaust, good fit on headers. No dinging cutting or grinding. I also have a regular boat anchor starter. Never had a problem with hot starts on the 402 or the 454 and I ran both at 18* initial advance. Both ran pretty cool though, 195-200 tops while waiting at a light on a hot day. Pretty much 185 any other time.
 

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Taz, I was at the starter alternator rebuild shop by me today and I asked him about the starter problems with the headers and he has the small starter that he sells for header / high torque applications. He explained to me that he rewires them for more torque plus the smaller the unit , the further away from the heat source. I also talked about the hard starts and no starts with the motor when hot and timing advanced and he guarenteed me that won't be an issue. So now I have to decide on the headers and pipes back. I am really leanig towards Flowmaster, 2 1/2". Any other suggestions are welcomed...........Thanks

Roland in NY
Ive got 2 1/2 x-pipe system with F/M 40's, It does resonate at 2000rpm buts it's no big deal , the dynomax ultra flows sound good too. if your exhaust guy has both types in stock have him slip on a set of each to hear which ones you like the best, Iam in Az so it gets real hot here in summer 99 to 110' so hot starts are a bigger problme here, when I had the stock starter it always dragged and finally cracked , then installed mini starter & remote solenoid, check out the Taylor Hot Start/Bump Start Solenoid Kit , got mine from OPG that fixed the hot start . I also put a 1" phenolic spacer under the carb, to cure the gas boiling in the carb and flooding when stopping then trying to start while hot .

http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?top...topvalue=0&newflag=0&grpcode=27505&yearrange=
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Next question, does the X or H pipe really matter? I would think that the streight flow of exhaust gas would be the desirable way to go. Any thouhgts on this?
Roland in NY
 

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Next question, does the X or H pipe really matter? I would think that the streight flow of exhaust gas would be the desirable way to go. Any thouhgts on this?
Roland in NY
The more effective the crossover, the better. Effectively doubles the muffler volume as each pulse flows through the pipes.

An "H" is far superior to "no" crossover; the "X" is usually better than an "H".

Some folks will piss 'n' moan about the "sound" of a crossover--an "X" is quieter and some would say higher-pitched than an "H"; an "H" is quieter/smoother than no crossover.
 

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I have a 70 Elky
I ran the Flowmaster 2.5" pipe kit with the Magnaflow 14" case 2.5" offset/offset mufflers.
Mild SBC is still in there and old headers..... The kit is an H-Pipe type. It was bolt-on starting with the back muffler hangers. Length/spread to your headers has separate pipes in a lazy L or shallow V shape so these you fiddle with, mark, cut with Saws-
All and weld to your reducers. The kit has nice 'up and over' pipes that fit well and two tail pipe choices.

I get asked all the time if I have a BBC under the hood. Plenty loud. Coming back from the track at Bremerton after 50 min at freeway speeds....not exactly deaf but you know you have been exposed to noise.
 

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my 67 396 has an autozone lifetime starter. looks just like the original - is a heavy cast iron nose on it... used to have problems you guys mention since I run the headers. installed a moroso heat shield about 20 years ago ($20 back then). am yet to have any starter problems since...sure the mini setup is pretty cool and light though...
 

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Kevin,your testamony is what i always have said which is if you have a hi trq gm starter thats in good cond or rblt with a good quality starter heat shield you should not have hot start issues caused by a heat soaked starter,period.

Thats doesnt account when also running a weak/underated CCA battery(700cca minimum & 800cca + best) ,weak 37 amp alt for slow recharge(55-61 amp stock alt or 70+ amp conversion is best for faster recharge and when at idle in traffic with lightt on),old bettery cables (pref new battery cables),and or corroded-bad-loose connections in the starting-charging-grnd-elec system in general (clesan all connections of rust/corrosion/paint & tighten)that also collectively add to hot start issues.

When you get all the above right you will not have hot start issues even with 18-20 deg basetiming & a BBC that has 10-11:0 comp along with a mild cam that creates fairly hi cyl pressure/cranking compression .When you get these things right there is no need to bother with the sometimes troublesome aftermarket ministarters that at times need rewiring and or special shimming to get right .

Scott
 

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Some folks will piss 'n' moan about the "sound" of a crossover--
I'm one of the pissers and moaners!:D;)

I just had my car ( 396ci ) fired up two days ago, Hooker Headers, 3" headpipes into 18" Magnaflows into 2 1/2" Flowmaster tails. I like it quite a bit:yes:!
 
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