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I have a 70 plain-jane model that had a 307/PG combo as stock. I have done considerable work to suspension and drivetrain including putting in a mildly-built 350 SBC. I would like to replace the PG and was going to use a th350, but have recently seen several 700r4s in the ads and I started thinking... First, what changes do I have to do to the car, like new crossmember, or just move the existing one? Are the mounts the same? I know the drive-shaft will have to be shortened, but by how much? What is the kick-down on a 700r4, cable or switch? Will the cooler lines interchange? Finally, are there any differences in 700r4s where I need to look for certains years or stuff? Also, can I use a 700r4 out of a truck or 4x4?? Sorry for all the questions, I feel quite ignorant on transmissons, and since you guys are the best source around...Thanks in advance.

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Bill C.
'71 SS (now with 468BBC)
ACES #2780
Colo Spgs, CO
 

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I did the swap in my 68 camaro and it was quite simple. I had to move the crossmember back about 3/4". Had the driveshaft shortened about 3". Cooler lines are in the same place. Hooked up the t.v. cable and had it adjusted properly, and I had to hook up one wire (power at key on), to lock up the converter. The tranny needs to be built to run in a non computer controlled car, but I don't know anything about that. Also I believe tranny's out of a 4x4 won't work.
 

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The 200-4r is almost a direct replacement, just move the crossmember back, bend cooling lines, wire it for lock up, and have fun. only problems may be hooking up shifter (just a little tricky) or change to a floor shifter like me. and you don't have to cut your driveshaft that's a $150 plus. and all bolts are metric also you will want to change the speedo gear mine and a friends are both off approx 20% jk oh you have to use the "universal" bolt patern the BOP pattern won't work

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John Krenn
1970 malibu SS look-a-like well kinda
307/200-4r (soon to be 355)

Ft.Worth, Tx
 

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BC
The low down as I experienced it:

The crossmember is moved back, but the holes were already there. Tranny mount from my 350 worked.
Cooling lines are in the same exact location as 350.
Speedometer cable connection in same place
Shift linkage (column) was in same location.
Driveshaft shorten (seems like 2.75 inches-but it was 5 yrs ago), balance, and 2 new universals $60.00 Measured 350, measured 700 and subtracted. Yoke from 350 worked fine.
700 uses Throttle Valve (TV) cable for upshift & down shift. Correct Adjustment is critical but not hard.
Later years (post 86) are better built. Post 88 are best. But early models can be rebuilt to latest specs.
Wiring for lockup is a single wire. 700s did NOT use a computer (4L60 basically same as 700 did use computer)
Torque converter to flexplate bolts are Metric - don't reuse old bolts.
Took me a weekend and I had no (zero) experience with R&R auto tranny before that.
Mileage with my tired old 2bbl 350 went from 15.5 (highway) to 19+ I am very happy with the swap.

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Rick
72 El Camino
TPI350/700r4
TC#00038
ACES#00140
 

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Just thought I would add that B&M, TCI and others make an installation kit that uses a factory MAP sensor to automatically work the converter clutch. Makes the whole thing operate like stock without having to use a switch to lock and unlock the converter.

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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100
 

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Last month I had a tranny shop swap the PG over to a 700 in my '69. They modified the 700 so that while in 4th the converter would be locked, there is no 12 volts wired to the tranny. I had never heard of this, has anyone else and can you think of any problems by doing it this way? So far it's working great, drives like a totally different car, has a 12 month warranty and the cost was less than what some places wanted for just a transmission.

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Jim Hildebrand
Lubbock, TX
TC #345
'69 Malibu
 

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Ok I guess it never hurts for me to say it one more time... What doc j is referring to is a manual torque converter lock up valve. This totally replaces the electronic lock up solenoid in a 700 or 200 automatic overdrive transmission. These valves were originally used in diesel applications, and now are common to be used by transmission shops to avoid having to deal with the lock up system in the computer, or lack there of... There is absolutly no problem running this set up. From someone that has about 10000 miles on a 700R4 that is living quite well behind a healthy 402BB there have been no negative affects of running the trans like this. This way there are no extra wires or solenoids to hook up or worry about messing up.

I've said it once and I'm sure I'll say it again...

J.J. Fig

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http://www.clark.net/pub/chevelle/mcc.htm
 

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yeah i put a 700 in my dads 78 el camino,no lock up and it works fine.i had to shorten the driveshaft 2 3/4 inches.i have my trans guy around the corner where i work,he said "no problem" to eliminate the lock up.by the way this guys really good and a real car nut.hes got an 87 gn,that he never drives,like me,and his daily drivers a 90ish suburban w/ a weiand supercharger under the hood.pretty cool
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys...what a bunch of great info!! Sounds like it will not be too hard to convert to a 700r4. I will look into it and the associated costs around here.


Thanks again
Bill C.
 

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We have sold several of the 700R4 & 200R4 trans kits to D.I.Y's with no install problems. All the info given here sounds right on the money. The manual lock-up has been a great help for those who do not want to deal with electronics, although it is not hard to go the electronics route (One wire). I prefer the 200R4 only because of the physical size (same as TH350) and the gear ratio is the same as TH350 but with a fourth gear. Its better for a performance application because it does not have the big ratio drop between first and second gear like the 700R4. As for the strentgh, Buick GN's used 200R4's and thats good enough for me.
 
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