Anyone out there install a 700R4 into their 67 el camino/chevelle? How much did you shorten the driveshaft by? and doe the 3rd bolt pattern for the crossmember work, or do I need a custom crossmember? Thanx for any info
I've played around with trying to put a 700R4 in my TH350's place, and I've found that it's more of a hassle than it's worth. First off, you have to consider that if you're going to get a 700R4 you need to make sure that it's newer than (I believe) 86. The 82's to (I believe) 86 were one of GM greatest nightmares, due to the pumps breaking. GM redesigned the 700R4 in (Again, I believe) 87. Okay, so now with that said, you still want to put in a 700R4.
Yes you will have to redo your driveshaft, by how much I don't know (I'm giving you my experiences with a TH350 in my Vette. I also have a 69 Malibu). You will probably also have to modify your crossmember too. Keep in mind that the 700R4 had different tailhousings, depending on the model it was put in. I bought a 700R4 out of a 93 Firebird and tried to swap it into a friend's 82 Crossfire Injection Vette (which also had a 700R4). Imagine the surprise to find out that not only did I have to swap out the tailhousing, but I also had to swap out the valvebody, because in the early 80's the Vettes had a 4 prong electrical connector, and the 93 had a five prong connector (I don't like screwing with changing the electrical wires). It turned into a pain in the rear, but I did get it to work. Now I have a broken 82 700R4 with a 93 Firebird valve body and tailhousing. If you want to save yourself a headache, I have heard that there are aftermarket overdrives for the TH350. Supposedly it's incorporated into the tailhousing unit, and supposedly it ain't as great as the new 700R4. I am still checking into this. If anyone knows anything about a website where this can be confirmed, please relay it. I hoped this useless trivia helped you out a little DJ.
[This message has been edited by StingrayL82 (edited 11-20-98).]
I am just finishing the install of a 700R4 in my 66. I haven't cut the driveshaft yet but I understand that 3 inches is correct. I bought my trans from GER that built it to handle the tourqe of my big block. It has a non lock up converter wich looses 300-400 rpm on the highway but I had no wiring problems. The crossmember was moved to one of the rear set of holes, I will have to drill 2 new holes further back to accomodate the length. I used a stock Power glide crossmember no modifications. The TV cable is not yet on as I haven't finished that part yet. The tranny lines were a little tight on the right side of the car due to a little clearance. It is tight but I'm re using the powerglide lines. If you have any other questions feel free to e-mail me. Mine is still a work in progress. I hope this helps. The pluses of the overdrive out weighs the not having it. A lower first gear and the pluses of overdrive lower RPM better economy, etc. My tranny w/ shipping ran right around $900 to $1100.
I've had a 700 in my '70 SS for two
years now and it's great!!
There are a few problems but they are minor ones:
1.Driveshaft must be shortened by 2and7/8
inches.I went through a friend's driveshaft collection and found a stock Nova shaft that
fit. 700's have the same spline as a th350.
2.L-82 is correct; unless you intend little high performance use don't go with an early 700. Later model trannies are best because they have 10 vane pumps and all the
upgrades. They can be "de-computerized"
very easily at a cost of less than $20.00.
3.Stock crossmember is fine; just move it back and drill a few holes.
4.Caprice tail housings work well. Some
truck/van and Camaro housings are different but they are easily interchanged.
Just a word of caution- you must have
SOME mechanical ability to do such a swap.
Without some ability and a good source of information you may run into difficulty as
decsribed by L-82.
Ask anyone who has completed this swap
successfully and I'm sure they'll tell you
that it is worth the effort.
Good luck ,
One thing not to overlook is that the torque converter to flex plate bolts are metric on the 700. Don't try to use the SAE bolts from your old tranny.
Despite the effort its a worthwhile swap.
DJ, my trans shop built me a modified 90 4L60(non-electric 700R4), had my driveshaft cut, modified my PG crossmember only slightly, etc, and installed same for $895 two years ago. My 68 El Camino with this trans, 468", and 4.10 posi has held up great since the conversion. Best money I've ever spent on my car.
I checked on an overdrive unit that replaces the tailshaft of a Turbo 350/400. The company that makes these is called "Gear Vendors". I just received the catalog & the product looks very heavy duty. I called their tech support to find out what the HP rating was & they assured me that 1500 HP would NOT break their overdrive. This has a planetary gear drive that you could actually split every gear. The reduction ratio is 20%. The 700R overdrive is 30%. The only downfall to the Gear Vendor overdrive that I can see is the cost. $2100.00 for the turbo 350 unit. I am still looking, but will probably rebuild a 700R with heavy duty parts. I can save $1000.00.
Well, GM1965, you seem to have the answer that I was looking for, but at the wrong price. The question, now, is can I take this broken 82 700R4 that I have with the 93 Firebird valvebody and get it rebuilt to today's stronger '87 and up standards? I would imagine that the shell of the tranny has remained the same, only the guts of it have evolved. Am I right in this assumption?
have you considered a 200-r4? they bolt in place of a th350 or a glide using the same drive shaft. they're cheaper to buy ,build, and install. they're rumore to beweaker but i've seen them behind big blocks and they function fine, they have a better low gear than a 700 too. i think it would be a good alterative cost wise.
i did it also,in 64 elky. pulled 283 with powerglyde and installed bb with 700r4.
used same driveshaft shortened 3 inches [spline fit] bolted angle iron to the shelf that the crossmember originally sat on, drilled holes for the cross member to bolt to the angle iron.
how hard it will be to get the trans cooler lines on will depend on how much you are willing to massage the area that is tight on the passenger side. my 12# sledge made it fairly easy.
aword of warning. the tv valve cable adjustment is CRITICAL. best to have someone do it that has done it before. good luck.
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