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Discussion Starter #81
Power steering hose fun. Using the Jeep Grand Cherokee box with the factory Express Van p/s pump, you can see that things are in close proximity to each other. I ended up having a hose built locally, which unfortunately was not cheap. All told, about $80 to do it.














With the short 90* fitting.





Top view with everything installed. I will likely shorten the return line although I'm not sure how much shorter I can go without possibly kinking the return line.





You can see, sort of, that I went with the long 90* for the pressure side and the short with an extender for the low side. This allowed the return line to the pump to not rub on the return fitting.


 

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Discussion Starter #82
Spent the day replacing the center link in my F350 and getting it realigned, as well as running down some parts. Finding fuel submersible wire in this town is basically impossible. I have tried to get some from Racetronix, but I will just say I'm not overwhelmed by their customer service.

I did manage to finally get the driveshaft yesterday. Apparently there isn't a 1310 to 1410 conversion joint, Dan's Driveline managed to scrounge up a tail piece that held a 1330. I also managed to get the engine harness mostly installed. It turns out that the G-body down pipes put the O2 bungs further than the harness was designed for. Summit has Caspers p/n 109011 (24") and 109010 (12") O2 extensions for the best price.

Fluids, filters, Rigid 377, and a bunch of -AN fittings showed up today. Battery showing up tomorrow. Plan to turn her over by tomorrow night and fire her up on Saturday at the latest. Unless I get the fuel pump assembly built and installed in the tank. Not sure if the zinc plated, copper lined 3/8 line I bought will have any issues with the gasoline or not.


 

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Discussion Starter #84
So I built this semi-elaborate wagon in-tank fuel pump pick and assembly. Got it all tweaked so the pump was just above the seam of the tank, installed two of the 6 bolts holding the assembly and installed the fuel sending unit. Something didn't feel right. So I looked in the filler hole and the damn sender float was hung up on the fuel pump assembly. I tried to re-bend it to make it all work, the new pick-up assembly, but to no avail. I'm going to go get some more straight tube tomorrow and basically put that in unbent. The way the 6-hole cap sits on the tank, it angles over a little and should clear the fuel sender float with no issue.
 

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It's the little details that seem to take the longest, but wind up being the most important part of the build, nice work!!
 

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Discussion Starter #86
So, it's a small victory, but I got her to turn over. I'm not done with the fuel tank, but with any luck/skill, it will fire up tonight.

She cranks
 

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i remember that moment with mine. greta feeling getting forward motion on a project. Congrats!
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Hey folks, I know I haven't updated much as of late, but things have been super busy. I haven't actually seen the car in almost three years as it's been with the min sec prison in Las Vegas.

One thing I've toiled over ad nauseam is the fuel tank. To my knowledge, no one is re-popping the '70 saddle fuel tank, so I'm really leaning towards a '70 El Camino EFI tank and modifying the fill tube so I can fill through the stock fuel door. By all accounts, there is the dimple in the frame rail in the back to accommodate the elky filler tube, but the problem is the storage pan in the floor that goes right where the fuel tank would occupy. I'm thinking of cutting the tub out and then installing a thin diamond plate for the floor but I can' remember if the floor in the back is flat or not.

I went with a POL iron Corvette brake master cylinder assembly as it seems that Autozone had a bad batch of m/c's or that their rebuilder is not up to speed on building them right.

I scrapped the Lokar 1805 due to clearance issues on the firewall with the billet arm for the CPP stainless adjustable rod.

Both the m/c and shift rod are currently being installed, so I don't know how well they work just yet.
 

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Bryan the stock fuel tank works well with an intank pump. Due to the shape a sump isn't really needed. I have over 8000 miles on my wagon and can run down to 3-4 gallons left in the tank with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Thanks. I am a little worried that the craftsmanship on the updates I've made to the tank aren't all that great and finding someone that will actually work on one of these tanks, just to make sure it's not too mangled.
 

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Bryan the stock fuel tank works well with an intank pump. Due to the shape a sump isn't really needed. I have over 8000 miles on my wagon and can run down to 3-4 gallons left in the tank with no issues.

Same with mine Bryan, I have a lot of miles on it with no sump, and zero issues also...
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Some recent photos. Looking for a good auto shipper to transport. I’ll take quality and price and sacrifice time, so if anyone has a referral, please let me know. Needs to go from southern NV to Minneapolis area.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
The hood is currently in primer as there was a crease in the nose due to shipping.

Also, I’m thinking about wrapping the car instead of painting, but because the body isn’t perfect, I’m thinking old have to go with some sort of patterned wrap. I’ve also thought about just doing a detail on the existing paint and maybe just doing a matte black wrap on the hood, or even a plasti-dip. Maybe at some point in the future I’ll do a nice paint job, but not now.
 

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A wrap to me says you are trying to hide something worse than a cheap paint job. Especially a patterned wrap.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
I am. The body isn’t perfect and will show it with any solid color wrap, that’s why I’m thinking pattern. I’m not trying deceive in a sale or anything, but just make the imperfections less obvious.
 
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