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Discussion Starter #61
Got the frame back from the powder coater and got the front control arms back from Dan's Driveline. As a result of my pending relocation to Chicago, time is of the essence. I made a mistake when trying to epoxy paint the frame and just didn't have the time to prep it all over again.




I also finally picked up the hood and the wheels. This is what they'd look like on the car even though in these pics, the frame and suspension are not there.



 

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If those are 8" wide wheels they will sit another couple of inches inboard. Mine have 2" to the outer wheel lip front and rear. What size tire did you go with?
 

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Discussion Starter #63
They are 8's. 255/50/17. I have not point of reference underneath, but wanted to get a feel for what they would look like. Now, i just need to find two more Boyd JYDs for the other side.
 

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Dateline 1966: I just wrecked my 66 SS 396 -4 speed. Now insurance issues. ( I had to buy a full size 2 Dr. or 4 Dr.) So I buy Mace Bakers ( DEMO ) loaded " 396 "- 66 Caprice. It eats a set of front tires, Take it back to Baker Chevrolet, To my suprise, The wrench drives it onto the old style frame rack. NEXT: He ties down the two front horns and puts a bottle jack under the front crossmember, & Jacks it back into place or the correct spec. Re/sets the front end no more tire issues.
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Measure the distance between the upper control arm mounts. 32" is ideal, 31.75" is workable, anything less and the frame should be brought back to spec. Mine was 31.75".
I measured it once I got it back and it measured 31.875".
 

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Discussion Starter #66
I have the front upper and lower control arms in and will make some more progress on the fronts tomorrow which will include putting on the steering box as well as the QA1 coil overs and the steering linkage. I pulled the axles out of the rear and got the F-body disc backing plates on the rear. I'm going to reinstall the stock axle so I can get the driveshaft measurements and then see if I want to stay with 3.08's or go for more gear. I'm not sure I'm 100% happy with the work done on the gas tank, but it does have the tanks in push through gas cap on it and it looks like it will work. I need to clean up the exterior of the tank and get it painted. I also need to work on my fuel pump and fuel lines. I'll post some pictures of the tank tomorrow along with the frame and chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
It's been a while since I have posted, and I don't have any pics at the moment, but the chassis is basically back together. All of the UMI and PST stuff is in with the exception of the sway bars, which will go in last minute. I've got a couple of things I want to do to the motor before I drop it in and I need to finish cleaning the underbody of the car before I can modify the trans tunnel. The front wheels should arrive tomorrow which will make it a roller since I sold the old steel wheels a month or so ago. With any luck I'll be able to get the body back on for the final time the following weekend, though I still haven't decided what I'm going to apply to the undercarriage. At this point I'm leaning towards Lizard Skin sound deadener.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I have ordered a few exhaust parts and should have those in the next few days. I'm going to get the engine back in the frame, hopefully for the last time on Friday and get the tunnel cut and welded, get the body back off to seam seal and Lizard Skin and the hopefully put the body back on for the final time as well.

I sourced and aluminum driveshaft with 6l90 slip yoke, out of an express van with the 6l90, I hope to drop it off on Tuesday to have it shortened, balanced, and new u-joints. They are going to put "conversion" u-joint in the rear, which I did not know existed. Has anyone used these and is there feedback on them?


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The conversion joint will work fine, they have been around forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Been a little while since I've updated, but I have been working diligently on the project amongst other things.

Today, I got the engine back in the frame, hopefully for the last time.




I put the body back on temporarily after cutting a big "I" in the tunnel. I didn't go as far as the BRP guid says to go, but it's still a little bit bigger than I probably needed. Prior to cutting it, the tail of the 6L90 was hitting the tunnel, but it looks like it was just barely. I'm going to weld in a 3/4" piece of flat stock and there should be more than enough room. I can get my fingers between the body and the bell housing with no issue.




This is with the motor in and the body sitting back on the frame.


Not a great picture of it back on frame, a little dark. The front coil overs still need to be adjusted and the rear upper control arms need to be adjusted a bit.



Another shot



I also got a good deal on a non-operable cow hood
I also cleared off the firewall so I can paint it with POR15. The undercarriage has been cleaned up and the Lizard Skin is waiting to go on. A Vintage Air a/c setup will be going in place of the heater box. Looks like at one point someone made it a room without a view.









What is this? ^




I also ordered a bunch of parts including the exhaust, well part of it.

Hooker 42114 G-body swap downpipes. Not sure if these will work and I'm not sure about the quality, plus they showed today, two weeks before Jegs said they would. Not that it's a bad thing, just frustrating. As far as the quality, and I'm not sure if it is an issue or not, but the bung on one of the pips was not aligned with the hole drilled into the pipe itself. I'll have to see if it's going to cause an issue with the instal of the O2 sensor.

Pypes XVA10: I think That I probably should have ordered the XVF10 as those run down the tunnel.

Driveshaft: 2010 Chevy Express van aluminum shaft with 6L90 yoke. I'm going to have it shortened and a conversion joint put in so it will bolt up to the 10 bolt.
 

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Your "what is it" part is the accessories power circuit breaker. Your wagon has a power back window, correct? This is for that. Inside should be a plug that the window harness, and other accessories (windows, locks, seats), plugs into.

Project looks nice.
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I received my G-body downpipes and they look like they are going to clear just fine. I need to run apex a 9" extension off them to get the X pipe to cross in the right spot, but I may abandon the X pipe as a whole and do individual dual exhaust out the rear if I can't make this work the way I want it to.

On one of the downpipes the bung seems to be offset a little from the pipe material, and I haven't checked it yet, but I'm worried it's going to interfere with the O2 sensor.




Offset a little more to the 11 o'clock position.







The other downpipe which appears to have the bung properly centered.







Installed based on recommendation, with the bungs facing out.







Installed the opposite way, just to see how it fit.





top view





With Pypes X-pipe. Needs about a 9" extension off of the Hooker downpipes to clear everything.


 

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Discussion Starter #74
Man, I'm not sure how I was that far off on my driveshaft measurements.




j/k. This driveshaft is out of a 2010 Express Van, thanks to Stu and the folks over at JustChevyTrucks.com. Once the body is back down, I'll get it measured. I adjusted up the pinion angle, but need to get a finder on there to dial it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I got a bunch of work done this weekend including measuring for the driveshaft and modifying the fuel tank for the Tanks Inc. pickup. I used 2 -6 90* bulkead connectors and threaded in a -6 to NPT to the main pickup tube. The plan is to run 3/8" fuel line to both bulkhead fittings as they will be used to secure the EP381. The one with the inlet facing the same way as the black fitting will be the return which will dump right next to the pickup in the pump, the other, facing backwards will be used to rout the witlring to the pump. It'll be filled with a fuel resistant exact in all likelihood.











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Sprech your chassis work is coming along Great - along with everything. Thanks for post pics, looking forward to more up dates.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Thanks Daryl, I expect to get a lot done by next weekend. I will take and post pics as regularly as possible.


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Discussion Starter #78
Got some more done today.

Put the intake manifold back on.

Mounted rear F-body calipers

Worked on the in-tank fuel pump assembly.














Still a little modification necessary to get it to pick up at the very bottom of the tank.

I also need to find the torque specs to reassemble a few things like the intake and exhaust manifolds, the torque convert to flex plate, bell housing bolts, starter, trans pan etc.
 

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I was always told to have the pickup, and in this case the pump, off the bottom of the tank to prevent sucking stuff on the bottom of the tank as well as keeping the pickup/pump from getting damaged or dislodged if the tank gets hit and caved in. Yours looks to be on the floor. Is this OK?
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I have to bend the tubes a little to the left in this picture for it to hover above the bottom. The screen that goes on the bottom of the pump should prevent it from getting contaminated with anything that is in there. I will probably do a quick flush before final assembly and put gas in it.
 
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