[70malibu307]

Hi Gents,

I have a 1970 with a sweep dash, no clock. I am converting to an SS style dash carrier with New Vintage USA Gauges. The gauges are typical aftermarket, and require a ground, light, power, and signal. In addition to the gauges, LEDs have been provided for the turn signals, brake light, and high beam indicators.

I've spent some time reviewing the wiring diagram for my dash (13000) in the assembly manual, but I have a few questions related to the application of what (I think) I have learned. I do plan to reuse the sweep harness, which I hope won't present a problem since I'm using aftermarket gauges. Sorry if the questions seem pretty basic.

1. I think I have isolated the wires in question for the turn signals, brake lights, and high beam indicator. Am I correct in assuming that I can simply wire these directly to the pigtails that come from the replacement LEDs? The individual LEDs have one black and one red wire.

2. For the lights, can I just use the wiring that is running to the current instrument lights? It seems that I could, and that they should be dimmable (gauges are lit with bulbs, not LEDs) since they're run through the rheostat at the headlight switch. Also, will my sweep dash headlight and washer switches work in the SS carrier?

3. For the power wire to the gauges, I assume that I will need 12v hot when the key is in the on position. Is there a good wire to use as a starting point? I plan to wire the gauges in series. Would this also provide a good signal for the voltmeter?

Thank you all for your help. Again, I'm sorry if these questions are a bit basic. I just want to try to get it right before it goes back in the car.

 

[Coppertop]

See my responses in bold

I have a 1970 with a sweep dash, no clock. I am converting to an SS style dash carrier with New Vintage USA Gauges. The gauges are typical aftermarket, and require a ground, light, power, and signal. In addition to the gauges, LEDs have been provided for the turn signals, brake light, and high beam indicators.

I've spent some time reviewing the wiring diagram for my dash (13000) in the assembly manual, but I have a few questions related to the application of what (I think) I have learned. I do plan to reuse the sweep harness, which I hope won't present a problem since I'm using aftermarket gauges. Sorry if the questions seem pretty basic.
Sweep dash harness will have power, ground and signal. You can modify it for your needs. Have a plan and it will work for you. What are your gauges? You may have to run additional sending wires if you have more items then what the factory had...

1. I think I have isolated the wires in question for the turn signals, brake lights, and high beam indicator. Am I correct in assuming that I can simply wire these directly to the pigtails that come from the replacement LEDs? The individual LEDs have one black and one red wire.Do these LEDs have built-in current limiting resistors? The literature that came with them should make mention if you need to provide your own. You may have to add additional resistors in series even if they do have their own built in. This is because you may have to "dim 'em down" as they may be too bright and objectionable during night time driving.

2. For the lights, can I just use the wiring that is running to the current instrument lights? It seems that I could, and that they should be dimmable (gauges are lit with bulbs, not LEDs) since they're run through the rheostat at the headlight switch. Also, will my sweep dash headlight and washer switches work in the SS carrier? Grey wires are the "hot" dash light wires that dim in response to you rotating the headlight switch. You can use those to feed the gauge back-lights. Headlight switch and wiper switch will transfer over.

3. For the power wire to the gauges, I assume that I will need 12v hot when the key is in the on position. Is there a good wire to use as a starting point? I plan to wire the gauges in series. Would this also provide a good signal for the voltmeter? Pink wires under dash are hot during on/run/crank. Tap into any of those for your gauge power. You can connect your voltmeter to the pink line as well.

Thank you all for your help. Again, I'm sorry if these questions are a bit basic. I just want to try to get it right before it goes back in the car.
Better to ask then guess and have to re-do something or worse, damage equipment. :beers:

 

[Becker]

Do these LEDs have built-in current limiting resistors? The literature that came with them should make mention if you need to provide your own. You may have to add additional resistors in series even if they do have their own built in. This is because you may have to "dim 'em down" as they may be too bright and objectionable during night time driving.:beers:

Great info Coppertop, but with all those people driving around with their brights and/or turn signals on, maybe those lights should be as bright as they can be (lol).

For the OP, I found some great info here: http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/20102.pdf

 

[70malibu307]

Thank you for your response. This is exactly the information that I needed. Sorry for my late reply. I thought I was subscribed to this thread, but apparently not.

The gauges are speedo, tach, fuel, voltage, oil, and water.

 

[70 nialator]

You started the thread therefore for you ‘should” be subscribed.. This site is finicky sometimes….

 

[DONTWANT2]

I just went through all that wiring on a Dakota Digital install. I just soldered all the wires together for directionals, high beam and the brake light. DD requires a separate dimmer switch for there gauges and the light switch rheostat will not run there lights. the rest of the wires hooked to their control box!