Team Chevelle banner
401 - 419 of 419 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter · #402 ·
Update 27: Engine and Front Headlight Harness, Continued...

This post is strictly talking about the headlight harness. I'm still trying to locate a resistor wire. I need to see if there are any local wrecking yards that still have older cars. Most have been crushed way back when, someone in the big house decided they needed to go away.
Anyway, I removed the harness from the car after determining where the clips needed to be. I then found a schematic for the headlight upgrade. I used the wires coming from the headlight dimmer as the control wires for the relays. These went to Terminal 85. The ground wires went to Terminal 86. The wires going to the headlights themselves went to Terminal 87. Finally the red 12 gauge wire for the power went to Terminal 30. There is a 6"ish 14 gauge fusable link attached to each red 12 gauge wire that will be connected to the buss bar on the horn relay.
As you can see I did not wire these relays directly. I'm using relay sockets. I did not increase the size of the wires as the wiring diagram indicates. I'm using the factory sized wires. The only difference is the vast amount of power is no longer going through the dimmer switch. It's coming from the relay instead. I've done a number of thesae upgrades and have had fantastic results and no issues to date.
These relays will be mounted behind the windshield washer bottle so they will be hidden and won't take away from the factory looks when completed.

Font Parallel Engineering Pattern Gesture


Circuit component Electronic engineering Electrical wiring Gas Cable


I wrapped the relay legs this morning.

Circuit component Line Electrical wiring Electricity Cable


I'll finish wrapping the harness in the next couple of days as time permits. I still have a bunch of project that need to get completed before the fall weather sets in.

Until next time....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,498 Posts
EEEEEOOOOOW ... that went whizzing right over my head... :ROFLMAO:
I'll just bring the next car to you for this upgrade...;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jayhawk500

·
Registered
1969 Grand Prix. 455 TH400 12 bolt.
Joined
·
378 Posts
About your hood striker pin... how far off? I ask because thats a pretty forgiving area and a dead blow or 2x4 swat to the pin to tilt it in the needed direction can make quite a bit of difference with no harm done. Not bending the pin, just the hood.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter · #405 ·
About your hood striker pin... how far off? I ask because thats a pretty forgiving area and a dead blow or 2x4 swat to the pin to tilt it in the needed direction can make quite a bit of difference with no harm done. Not bending the pin, just the hood.
I've only looked at placing the pin in the hole. The inner structure will have to be enlarged as it covers about half of the outer hole. I'll see if I can get a picture of it in the next couple of days.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter · #406 · (Edited)
EEEEEOOOOOW ... that went whizzing right over my head... :ROFLMAO:
I'll just bring the next car to you for this upgrade...;)
Easy Peezy Mitch. Just what it says on the diagram. Why the artist of the drawing used a Blue line for the Tan is beyond me...
This upgrade eliminates alot of decreased wire sizes and switches. It puts the headlights directly onto the battery using a 40 amp relay.
So no chance of burning out the relay contacts.
Now I have to wait on the flag style forked terminals for the horn relay. I opted to use the OEM style, but I cant find those. For some reason AAW and M&H can get them.
 

·
Registered
1969 Grand Prix. 455 TH400 12 bolt.
Joined
·
378 Posts
I've only looked at placing the pin in the hole. The inner structure will have to be enlarged as it covers about half of the outer hole. I'll see if I can get a picture of it in the next couple of days.
Oh crap, that sounds fairly obvious and severe. Too much for my idea to apply.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter · #408 ·
I was able to get the harness wrapped yesterday morning while the wife and dog were still in bed. Pretty straight forward. I stopped just after the last harness clip that holds the wires to the passenger fender. I'll do the rest when I get the engine installed and the alternator on so I know where the last clip is supposed to be placed.
I have the harness back in the car and it fit great.

Wood Electrical wiring Gas Wire Cable

Wood Electrical wiring Gas Engineering Cable

Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Electrical supply Cable Gas
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter · #409 · (Edited)
Update 28: Frankies not Twitter Painted, He's Spatter Painted!

Unlike Thumper the rabbit who got Twitter painted in the Bambi Movie, Frankie got spatter painted today. I used the spatter paint from The Parts Place. Not supposed to need the clear overcoat. But, I'll do somemore research to be sure. The paint was almost a year old and was in great shape. I stirred until it was an even consistancy, and sprayed it in my NAPA brand paint gun @ 80 psi w/ a 2.2 tip. It sputtered a bit, but I think it came out okay. It's hard to tell with the glare, but the floor of the trunk is fairly thick.
I have leftovers ( about a half can) just in case I need to add more to the seatback support. What do you all think? Do I need more paint on the forward bulkhead?

Hood Automotive tire Sleeve Automotive design Grey

Hood Vehicle Automotive tire Car Trunk

Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Hood

Automotive tire Car Automotive exterior Trunk Motor vehicle


Until next time my friends....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter · #410 · (Edited)
Oh crap, that sounds fairly obvious and severe. Too much for my idea to apply.
Ok, did some looking. The inner structure is clear of the holes on top of the hood.
I will be waiting to put the hood pins on until the very end. All the front sheet metal is going to come off one more time. The engine and ac unit will be put in, then everything is reassembled. Once final fitment is complete, then I'll mount the hood pins.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter · #415 · (Edited)
Update 29: Frankie gets his Bumper

After moving Frankie and all of his parts back into the barn earlier this week, I decided I didn't want to trip over the rear bumper any more. I found what was needed parts wise, taped up the body, and set to work installing the bumper.The hardware is a mix of OEM and AMK. The AMK kit didn't have the correct carrage bolts for the bottom of the bumper. They were using a plain bolt for the position. The upper bumper carrage bolts are OEM. I polished them earlier when I blasted and repainted the bumper brackets.
The bumper will eventually get removed again so it can get rechromed. But, for now it's on the car. I need to clean it up still, but I just couldn't resist snapping a photo. All the lights worked when I put power to them. The gaps are even all the way around, which suprised me since the left quarter and a portion of the tail light panel was replaced. I have weather stripping and trunk lid bumpers coming from Ausley's. Now, I just need to cough up the cash for the deck lid "Chevelle". It looks like Trim Parts has the best looking one. Not liken' the RestoParts one at all. I have the OEM emblem, but it's too pitted to be usable. But I need to find it, so I can use the nuts and pin inserts on the deck lid.
The tail lights are OEM and were repainted. Not going to put the SS bumper pad on until after it's chromed. I set the back glass in place to get that out of the way also. I have lots of finger prints all over the car. It needs a serious bath, but I dont want to get anything wet, yet. I may dust it off and use some detailing spray on it.

Car Automotive parking light Land vehicle Vehicle Vehicle registration plate


I did find that not ALL "A" body gas tanks are the same. I bought a Cutlass tank when I was back in Oregon for $50. It is an "A" body tank, and it fits, but the filler neck is about 4" too long.
So now, I have to buy a new tank.Think I'm going to go with Tanks Inc. But that's going to have to wait for a while.


Until next time.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,226 Posts
Update 27: Frankie gets his Bumper

After moving Frankie and all of his parts back into the barn earlier this week, I decided I didn't want to trip over the rear bumper any more. I found what was needed parts wise, taped up the body, and set to work installing the bumper.The hardware is a mix of OEM and AMK. The AMK kit didn't have the correct carrage bolt for the bottom of the bumper. They were using a plain bolt for the position. The upper carrage bolts are OEM. I polished them earlier when I blasted and repainted the bumper brackets.
The bumper will eventually get removed again so it can get rechromed. But, for now it's on the car. I need to clean it up still, but I just couldn't resist snapping a photo. All the lights worked when I put power to them. The gaps are even all the way around, which suprised me since the left quarter and a portion of the tail light panel was replaced. I have weather stripping and trunk lid bumpers coming from Ausley's. Now, I just need to cough up the cash for the deck lid "Chevelle". It looks like Trim Parts has the best looking one. Not liken' the RestoParts one at all. I have the OEM emblem, but it's too pitted to be usable. But I need to find it, so I can use the nuts and pin inserts on the deck lid.
The tail lights are OEM and were repainted. Not going to put the SS bumper pad on until after it's chromed. I set the back glass in place to get that out of the way also. I have lots of finger prints all over the car. It needs a serious bath, but I dont want to get anything wet, yet. I may dust it off and use some detailing spray on it.

View attachment 747096

I did find that not ALL "A" body gas tanks are the same. I bought a Cutlass tank when I was back in Oregon for $50. It is an "A" body tank, and it fits, but the filler neck is about 4" too long.
So now, I have to buy a new tank.Think I'm going to go with Tanks Inc. But that's going to have to wait for a while.


Until next time.....
Unless you can find NOS versions, Trim Parts is always the way to go for emblems, lenses, & door handles. Restoparts is OPGIs brand & their trim products suck (at least the ones I've encountered), just like OPGI itself.

I never wash any of my show cars with water from a bucket or a hose....a duster & detail spray should suffice. If it's extremely dirty, get yourself a spray bottle of waterless wash. I like this one...

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter · #417 ·
Unless you can find NOS versions, Trim Parts is always the way to go for emblems, lenses, & door handles. Restoparts is OPGIs brand & their trim products suck (at least the ones I've encountered), just like OPGI itself.

I never wash any of my show cars with water from a bucket or a hose....a duster & detail spray should suffice. If it's extremely dirty, get yourself a spray bottle of waterless wash. I like this one...

Thanks for the info Pete.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter · #418 · (Edited)
Update 27: Engine and Front Headlight Harness, Conclusion

I was able to locate a resistor wire back in my old classic salvage yard in Vancouver Washington. They had an engine harness from a 69 Chevelle on the shelf. Lucky me!
I got it here and immediately stripped it down. There was a very small issue that was very easy to over come. There is supposed to be a Pink wire tied in with the resistor wire at the fire wall bulkhead plug. This is for the idle stop solenoid. I'm not going to have this option so that was left off. I also, intentionaly left out all of the TCS wiring. If I ever go down the road of it being concourse, then I will put it in. Easy Peezy! The starter wires will be cut to length and terminals put on when the engine is installed. The orange heater fan wire is in the harness. The end was heatshrinked to keep moisture out and then folded back on it self, then it was wrapped. The AIM says to cut it off, since I'll have A/C. But, I left the option there anyway.

Wood Electrical wiring Composite material Gas Electrical supply


The trunk is as complete as it will get for now. I'm only lacking the trunk emblem and the lock. Otherwise it's complete.


Car Motor vehicle Vehicle Hood Automotive design


The Firewall gutter and cowl hood relay is installed. The evap case is only temporary. I busted the lower tube off during the move. That was an expensive OOPS!
Think I'll go with a parallel A/C system now.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Rim


I have completed reconditioning the rear quarter windows. Those will be the next on the list to be installed.

Until next time...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter · #419 · (Edited)
Update 30: Quarter Windows Installed and Trunk Lock Wired

I had to read the Fisher Body Manual a number of times to figure out the process of installing the quarter windows. The first one (passenger side) took a while since it was all trial and error to get it installed. Biggest thing I learned was NOT to remove the brackets for the Window Guide, leave these in place. Just take out the Window Guide.
The driver side only took half the time.The other thing I needed to figure out was how to work around the drive motor for the regulator. Seems everything wants to catch on it. You also need 3-4 hands. But, both windows are in and they go up and down just fine. My battery charger is just big enough to operate the windows. They really need a battery. I set the one "up" stop (there are 2) all the way down so the window wouldn't run up into the body. I dont have the roof rails yet, so there's no weatherstripping in place.
The last thing I learned was to leave the spring off of the windows front roller until it's all installed. Then go through the door jamb vent and install it. It can be easily be reached from there.
Setting the adjustments was fairly easy, I just used all of the marks that was left from when the factory installed the window. I'm sure a small amount of tweeking will need to be required when I get the roof rail in. But, those are now checked off the list!

Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive exterior

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood

Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design


Lastly, I got the power trunk release wired up. Once I get the trunk light, both wires will be run through the 2 clips on the left hinge.
The purple wire laying in the trunk is for the rear window defogger.

Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior

Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper


Until next time....
 
401 - 419 of 419 Posts
Top