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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last Memorial Day weekend, the wife and I took a drive to pick up my dream car. I've always wanted a 70 Chevelle since I was a young 20 something back in Ohio.
The wife found one in Vallejo area of San Fran on a Chevelle site on Facebook. There's not much to the car. The interior has been completely stripped and there's nothing else to the car. It's only a frame and a shell of a body. There was no documentation, ie. build sheets anywhere in the car. The only thing I have is the VIN and data plates. All I can say is, it's a Cranberry Red car, with bucket seats and a console. I know this by the mounts spot welded to the floor. I believe this was originally an automatic car, because of the single brake pedal and a small hole in the floor for the shifter cable.

Once I got the car home, I started cleaning out all of the nuts that the squirrels had rat holed in it. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the car in general was in pretty good shape. The left rear quarter needs to be replace, and I got a new one with the car. The floor pans on the drivers side and passenger side need replaced. But the rear floor pans look like they came off the showroom floor. There is one section under the back seat that needs replaced, because the floor pan got shoved up some how. The trunk floor is solid, as is the taillight panel.

I don't know what brain surgeon decided to hack up the package tray and for what reason, but this will need to be replaced as well.
Overall, the car is in fairly decent shape, considering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
As I stated in the title. The wife has nicknamed this car as "Frankie" after the movie icon Frankenstein. Which given the fact there's nothing to really start with, this car will be assembled with a mix of old OEM and new repop parts. I will be using as many OEM parts as possible. I do a lot of shopping for parts on eBay and it's funny to see what people want for parts just by listing them as for an L78, LS5 and, LS6, car with no proof that it came off such a car.


The wife didn't want me to start hording parts, but that's too late. I starting buying things up as soon as I got the car home. One item I got was a 12 bolt differential. This originally had 3.31 gears. I have since swapped those out for 3.55's and the diff is now ready to be installed. The reason for the 3.55's is that this car will be rebuilt as an L78 car and this was the stock gearing for that engine.


When I bought the car, the guy says, Oh, I stripped the frame down and repainted it a few years ago. All you need to do is start building it up. Wrong! After I had the body off the car I noticed that the frame looked bent to me. So I made an appointment with my local Chevy Dealers' Body Shop and had the rolling chassis put on the frame rack. Good thing I did, the front of the frame was way out. So after 8 hours of shop time the frame is as straight as it ever was.


After I got the frame back home, I flipped the frame upside down and fixed a myriad of issues. One was a huge gaping hole in the front cross member on the bottom. Others were to remove the half a$$ welded in bolts for the rear shocks. I ground out the holes and welded in the correct thickness washers. Then I had to weld up some holes in the rear frame and replace the back cross member, because it had been pulled on and bent it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I took the frame and had it sandblasted and primered. I got a good coat of Chassis Black put on and I let it dry. I had to remove the engine mounts from the frame because the same brain surgeon decided to move the motor mounts up about one hole length. So I ground off the tack welds and filled in the holes that were drilled, leaving the factory holes alone.


All of those parts I started hording are now being put on the chassis. As you can see in the photos, The upper a-arms are now installed along with the close ratio gearbox and idler arm. I have to order new lower a-arms because the holes for the ball joints were wallowed out.


The plan for today is to get the 12 bolt installed. The springs sitting on the floor are supposedly factory LS6 springs. The seller told me these are low mileage springs. We'll see when I get the body back on. If some one can look at the 00 tag on the spring and tell me is the P/N is for an LS6 car, that would be great. If its anything other than that...Well, buyer be where, correct?


Until next time...
 

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Cool story and project. My 70 Malibu is in for paint and has already been totally mocked up. Have a bunch of steering and dash/wiring parts left over. Let me know if you have some difficulty finding something.

Best, Nick
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cool story and project. My 70 Malibu is in for paint and has already been totally mocked up. Have a bunch of steering and dash/wiring parts left over. Let me know if you have some difficulty finding something.

Best, Nick
Yes, yes ,yes, I surely will. I'll have a bunch of time until that happens, but I'm always looking for parts.


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I received my order from Inline Tube two weeks ago. I couldn't be happier with their product. Although I still had to do some hand forming to get everything to fit. the tubes are very well done. I've had to cut off a few flared ends and re-flare the tubes, to shorten them just a bit in order to get them to fit properly. The right hand axel tube I had to re-make after I cut too much of the tube off. The main rear brake tube was a bit of a challenge. I had to either add more to the bend or add a twist to the tube, plus re-do a flare a couple of times to get the tube in the proper place. But I do have all the tubes in place for now. The rest will be added at a later time when I get the body back on the frame.


Now on to the calipers. Look closely at the two pictures...Do you see a major problem? The right caliper is the correct one. The company I ordered these calipers from is going to make it right or I'll be sending back both calipers. I've already been in contact with them.


This has been a huge task in getting this post put up. For some reason my computer and this site don't like each other.


Attempting to complete the post
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Didn't get the post completed. Ran out of time.


Ignore the 3rd picture with the old front brake tubing. This is there to help remind me as to what went where. This has all been replaced with new tubing. Pictures will follow in my next post.
 

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Looks like someone was cutting that package tray with an air chisel. OUCH!

Good looking frame! Congrats on your accomplishments and good luck on your project.
 

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Chris,
Looks like you are making some good progress. Summit Racing sells original rebuilt calipers for a very reasonable price. Glad you are happy with your brake line purchase. I personally think they are one of the worst vendors in the business. Lord help you if you have a problem with their product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Chris,
Looks like you are making some good progress. Summit Racing sells original rebuilt calipers for a very reasonable price. Glad you are happy with your brake line purchase. I personally think they are one of the worst vendors in the business. Lord help you if you have a problem with their product.
Time will tell...Haven't had a problem up to this point.


P.S. The calipers came from a different vendor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
'70 Chevelle to be Reborn AKA "Frankie" Update #1 Cont.

I was able to get the fuel lines installed yesterday. I have to wait to get the body back on before I can finish fitting and forming the lines to meet the tank connections.
Getting the fuel line through the frame was a Pain in the A$$. No directions in the AIM for this and the drawings aren't very good. I basically used a piece of safety wire and fished the tubes through.


I receive a PM from a member asking me about the restrictor valve on the rear crossmember for the rear brakes. I added a picture of that and I added a picture of the finished front brake lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Not at home currenly, so I'll add updated pictures later.

I was able to order the correct left caliper and send back the wrong caliper for a full refund. Really happy with the calipers, but I will now and from now on get this type of stuff from my local NAPA store. I could have this completed weeks ago. Sometimes the best deal, isn't always the best deal.
I did get the shocks installed on all 4 corners. Just waiting on the correct upper bolts for the rear shocks.
The last item I need to get, is the rear sway bar and hardware. Once I get this installed, the chassis should be complete. Then, it's on to the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm have to start this thread over again because is sat stagnant for too long. The site wouldn't allow me to continue where I left off. So I have attached the link to my first thread for those of you wanting to start following or continue following Frankie being Reborn.

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/142-projects-builds/1039001-70-chevelle-reborn-aka-frankie.html

I had 3 nice paragraphs all typed out when I found out I couldn't reply to my previous thread. So anyway it'll be much, much shorter this time. I will tell you that "Life did get in the way". Mostly do to cash follow, cause I want to retire in three years and I had open heart surgery back in December.

So with the long story told short, we mush ahead...

I always seem to remember to start taking photos after the fact, and this is the case again. I had gotten a couple of patch panels for the not so local "classic" salvage yard a while ago. So this is where I pick up with Frankie being reborn.
I had to replace the center section under the rear seat due to some sort of damage and repair a rusted out section on the right side.

Floor Wire Flooring Fuel line Welding

Tire Automotive tire Floor Automotive wheel system Bumper


I then moved on to the package tray. Since the majority of the body is in very good condition, preforming major surgery on the tray isn't required. The structure is in very solid and sound condition. Just rusty from years of sitting outside unprotected and no paint on it from the factory.
As before, no "before picture". We start with cutting the package tray off in the back, then grinding out the spot welds. I have a spot weld cutter but the angles were a pain to deal with and the cutter kept walking, no matter how deep the pilot punch was.
I've tried twice to rotate the first picture. It is saved the correct way.

Vehicle Rust Automotive exterior Car

Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part Vehicle Car


I got the tray out yesterday morning, so now its on the donor tray. I have to clean that up, trim off the back edge, and find some weld through primer.

All in all, the more I look at this body the more work I'm finding. When I removed the rear glass I found the rusted out window channel on the drivers side. Luckily, that will get fixed when the left quarter panel is replaced. The right side, there is about 6-8" that need replacing. Also, the filler panel beteen the rear window and trunk will get replace too.

Motor vehicle Rust Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part

Vehicle Fuel tank


So for now this is where I am. Until next time...
 

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re: '70 Chevelle to be Reborn AKA "Frankie"

Good to see you are back at it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
re: '70 Chevelle to be Reborn AKA "Frankie"

I'm going to continue from last weeks post. It has taken me all week to finish up the package tray.
Having open heart surgery slows a person down, simply because I don't want to over do it.

I have just ordered the trunk filler panel and the tail light panel, due to finding holes in the sheet metal in the weather strip channel. The whole filler panel will be replaced, but the tail light panel will be sectioned out since the ends are just fine. There's about a 3' section right in the center that needs replaced. I'll surgically replace that when the new part arrives.

Until next Time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Bucket Seat Adapter Bolts

Please see the attached pictures. I am needing to replace some of these bolts in my factory bucket seat adapters due to rust damaging the threads.
Anyone know of a source for these bolts? What is this style of bolt called? I've tried flat head bolt, Blind head bolt and nothing comes up.
Any help will be appreciated. This bolt is fine and can be reused.

Thanks
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
'70 Chevelle to be Reborn AKA "Frankie" Update #3 New Metal

Its been a few weeks since I posted last. Not a lot has been completed. I've been waiting on a .com company to get me the correct mig welding torch for my welder. Most of the gas was coming out of my handle verses out the end of the tip. So I was getting a lot of spurting and sputtering when I welded.
I received that yesterday. So I'll spend today replacing that. While I was working on the back trunk opening panel I ran out of wire. So now I have to get more wire. Never ends.

I have made the decision that I'm going to have the body dipped to remove all of the paint, bondo, and rust. I areas that will be metal to metal contact I'm cleaning up the surface, rust treating and then using weld through primer to seal out an future rust issues. In areas were there are holes, I clean up the area but I don't get overly zealous. The acid will be able to get in those areas and take care of the rust.

I removed the filler panel from between the truck and rear window. I was surprised on the amount of rust on the inside. But this is one area that will see the acid.

The filler panel is from NPD and fits just fine. I had to trim some of the metal off the side tabs cause it didn't sit flush with the fender.
Once I got the panel to fit like I wanted, I moved on to the rear "tail light panel", that's what NPD calls it. The weather strip groove had a bunch of rust holes. Instead of trying to weld those closed, I decided to just replace the portion of the panel effected.

Now I have to replace my welder torch and get some more wire to install the panel. I also have a pneumatic hole puncher/flanger coming early this week. Then, it'll be back to the filler panel.

Until next time...Thanks for looking.
 

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