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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Those silicone hoses are slick! Source?

Also, you can use the Gates heat shrink hose clamps and that will eliminate the worm gear clamps for a nice clean look.

Andrew

The hoses come from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/
I'll have the detailed parts list in my on going PDF you see attached in this forum topic from time to time.


They have an extensive selection of hoses and fittings to use. They have the pre-bent hoses that also transition sizes as well which came in handy. The radiator is 1 1/2 inch and the fitting on the water pump is 1 3/8 inch. Pegasus sells hoses that transition from these sizes. The worm drive clamps have never been my favorite. The work drive clamps you see in the picture are specifically for use on silicon hose. They have a sleeve in them that doesn't allow the slits to contact the hose material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
I've primed the motor and we have oil pressure. I was also able to test the fuel gauge, fuel pump, fuel sensor and they all are working great. It's nice to see these things go in one time and simply work the first time. I added fuel to the tank to the gauge respond. The tank was new and so therefore empty. The fuel pumps are working great. They come on during key on for 3 seconds as designed. No leaks in my fuel system which is great. I've done a cranking test with the ignition disabled and the cranking oil pressure was great. Zero oil leaks and the starter wiring worked as designed the first time. Attached is a picture where I mounted the fuel pump control module.




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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
Hey folks, sorry for the break there in posts, I got caught up in another project.

I have some great news is that the Chevelle is on the road and driving.

I believe we last left off where I was just getting to priming the motor. I primed the motor without issue. There is a port on the front drivers side of the engine where you can plug in a tool to prime the engine with oil. The engine ships full of oil from Chevy. I of course removed that oil when I did a pan change to the Holley oil pan. So far the Holley oil pan that I got from Schwartz Performance works perfect. Zero leaks, it went together great, lined up great with the block, they included all the small parts I needed to complete the install.

The Ultimate Headers that I also got from Schwartz went on next, well they went on and off the car many times making sure I could route the wires and get past the transmission housing. As it turns out I trimmed the transmission bell housing ear on the passenger side flush with the block. This made getting the headers in and out of the car super easy. The second challenge with the headers was making sure I clear the wiring that needs to pass real close on the passenger side. I made sure to use the factory heat shield supplied with the motor and I had to bend it a bit more flat that it was originally to clear the passenger header. The drivers side header would have fit perfect except that it contacts the lower rear control arm bucket that mounted to the frame. I used a grinder on the frame to remove some of the material and then I clearance the header pipe a bit (used a wooden handle to make a smooth dent in that pipe that getting in the way). The header clears the steering shaft without any issues. The header flanges are great and line up perfect. The headers came with a like a spherical ball like metal gasket surface with I and the exhaust shop were not a fan of. We cut of the mating surface on the header in favor of a better sealing surface.

For the rest of the exhaust the O2 sensors are right at the end of the header in the collector. The pipe is 3" to a X pipe and then 3" all the way back thru a pair of Dynamax mufflers. My local shop here in Vista CA, called Warner's Muffler came highly recommended and they did fantastic work. They will be doing all my cars going forward.

Being that I'm driving the car now I've been able to work out any issues with the cooling system. The radiator setup from AutoRad had worked great so far. The car has no issues staying under 200 and typically will stay around 195. There are two fan in a fully sealed shroud and one at a time will come on as the heat increases. So far it has only ever turned on the first of the two fans. The engine controller from GM has full control of the two fans and turns them on as needed. As you an imagine the biggest challenge with the cooling system is hooking it all up. The radiator hoses are easy enough to deal with. The heater hoses are the same story and nothing special to deal with. The intercooler was next hurdle. I needed to be able to hook up the radiators that are in the supercharger housing (using two special connectors), then from the SC unit it connects to the intercooler tank. The intercooler tank is a small unit that is used for expansion and passthru for the pump. From the SC to the tank to the pump to the inlet on the front mounted intercooler, from the outlet of the intercooler back to the SC. Lots of connections and of course a size change half way thru the system (the pump). I mounted the intercooler pump just below the airfilter on the front inside of the drivers inner fender. This was the best spot for hose routing and wiring. The intercooler expansion tank is mounted to the radiator core support above the drivers high beam head light.

Getting all the air out of the intercooler setup isn't too bad. They have air bleeders at the SC unit. I"ve been happy with how cool the car runs even when hot out and stop and go traffic.


More to come, feel free to ask away :)
 

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Do you know if the e92 controller can be configured for PWM fan control? I know the new generation of fans, like in the 6th gen Camaro have fans that have the fan controller built into the fan.

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
Do you know if the e92 controller can be configured for PWM fan control? I know the new generation of fans, like in the 6th gen Camaro have fans that have the fan controller built into the fan.



Andrew


It won't control variable speed fans. It's either on or off. It has two control circuits to turn on the second fan if the temps keep rising.


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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Good morning folks, I'd thought I'd give a short term report on the various major systems. For this posting I wanted to cover the cooling system.

The major components are from AutoRad (Radiator with shroud and dual fans, AC condenser, Transmission cooler, inter-cooler, oil cooler, core support)

The small components are from Pegasus Auto Racing (silicone radiator hoses, fancy silicone worm drive hose clamps). Pegasus Auto Racing is also where i got the hose and connectors I used for the trans cooling lines.

The Inter-cooler hoses are from the HPS Performance Products. This company sells very flexible hoses that I need to make some of the turns I needed to make.



The transmission cooler lines were easy to connector the transmission using the banjo fittings from Sweet Performance (find them on eBay searching for 4L80e banjo fittings) These fittings help a lot in a tight situation and worked out great. I've had the transmission in and out a few times and these lines were easy to service. The lines run along the passenger side of the car and up into the frame. I run both lines up and into the frame of the car and then they come out the front of the frame right there next to the trans cooler connections. I used all AN fittings to terminate the hoses and then also to make the connection to the cooler (no clamps). So far this setup is working great.


The radiator hoses are either 2 pieces or 3 coupled together to make the hose I really needed. I have the fancy worm drive clamps on the connections and plan to switch them the to the shrink style at least for the middle couple connections to reduce the number of clamps (this is for looks only the clamps work fine) When I say fancy clamps I'm referring to the worm drive clamp that has a band under the slots to keep them from cutting into the hose. If you have to use worm drive clamps these are the best option and don't cost much more. The radiator setup uses two different size hoses. the engine has 1 3/8 and the radiator has 1 1/2. The hose selection at Pegasus Auto Racing has options for this. they sell hoses that reduce for you and this helped allowing me to not worry about a reducing connection.

The heater hoses are straight forward and connect side by side on the water pump housing to the car. There wasn't anything special to note here on the connectivity.

The inter-cooler connections where straight forward using the hoses from HPS. You will need a reducing coupler as the line on the engine is 5/8 and the line on the inter-cooler pump is 3/4. I found this fitting online very easy by searching for a barbed fitting 5/8 - 3/4. The inter-cooler pump is mounted on the drivers side inner fender below the expansion tank. This mounting location was the easiest and provided a fairly easy connection from the expansion tank to the pump. The flow path is out from the engine, to the inter-cooler expansion tank, to the pump inlet, from the pump outlet to the top of the inter-cooler, out of the bottom of the inter-cooler back to the inlet on the engine. The place where you will need the coupler is between the expansion tank and the pump.


Based on available space up front I"m not running an oil cooler on the car. I don't autocross and or race this car so it wont be needed.
 
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