Thank you very much, I hope to help contribute to the cause. So many people have helped over the years fabricate cars.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
70 Chevelle LT4 & 4L85e Swap SS Z06
101 - 120 of 130 Posts
Thank you very much, I hope to help contribute to the cause. So many people have helped over the years fabricate cars.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sneak preview of the new cooling system![]()
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
A little further. I'll have a detailed listing of this portion when I'm done with it this part too
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Joined
·
2,983 Posts
AJ, I do like the look of a fabricated pan!
To the question about the fitment of the core support so far...
Almost every thing has lines up spot on. There a point here and there that you need to file or drill a little. An example would be the headlight adjustment grommet square holes. These square holes were not large enough and had to be made larger using a file. Some of the holes where the bolts go thru needed some small relief. Almost every hole lines up spot on. The drivers side lower grill mount bracket bolt hole is the only one so far I would say is actually off. I had to re drill this hole.
The headlight spring holes are also too close and you either shorten the spring or re drill the hole further away.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Almost every thing has lines up spot on. There a point here and there that you need to file or drill a little. An example would be the headlight adjustment grommet square holes. These square holes were not large enough and had to be made larger using a file. Some of the holes where the bolts go thru needed some small relief. Almost every hole lines up spot on. The drivers side lower grill mount bracket bolt hole is the only one so far I would say is actually off. I had to re drill this hole.
The headlight spring holes are also too close and you either shorten the spring or re drill the hole further away.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Radiator Core setup update:
The entire radiator core setup (radiator, condenser, oil, trans and intercooler) were purchased a package from AutoRad in Georgia. It's a family run business and they have great tech support.
The setup arrived in several well packaged boxes. they do provide very minimal instructions. If you're undertaking this kind of a project then no instructions for this shouldn't be an issue. You can call them and they will answer any of your questions.
After you unbox the setup and lay it out yu will find they don't include all of the bolts needed. This isn't by fault but by design. I'll point out here soon where you need to provide harware.
Pulling the factory core off is fairly straight forward and placing the largest main new core piece back too. Once the main core piece is installed and I suggest leaving all the bolts loose until the end, you will bolt on the head light mounts. The headlight mounts foit very well and line up nice. I did need to make the square holes larger using a file. This is one of a few adjustments to the setup I've had to do to get it all to fit. You will need to remove the fender to headlight mount brackets from the old core and re use them here. Some of the bolts and or hardware youo need to go buy ends up here. You will need to provide new bolts and nuts here to mount the bracket to the fender. Its easiest if you mount the bracket to the headlight bucket and then the bracket to the fender.
Now with the main core and the headlight buckets attached you can add on the radiator and reservoir to the core support. The radiator shroud is amazing. There is no waste of space at all and it 100% encompasses the back side of the radiator. There are 2 x 2135 CFM fans from Maradyne model number M142K. Both are low profile which made me happy.
After you mount up the new core support, the radiator, AC condenser, trans and oil cooler you quickly find out that you have no room to mount the intercooler. I called AutoRad and they are expecting you to cut the front lower valance panel to fit them. This I wasn't aware of and still haven't decided my direction yet. At the moment I'm not cutting the panel. I may opt to use what was the oil cooler to now be the intercooler. I'll know more later.
My plans for the AC is to use all flexible lines including at the drier. I'll mount the drier up front where it typically is located. There is a tab there I can use and I may be able to shoe horn it in there. I'm starting to list out the connectors and hose needed to complete the hookup. Ill provide that complete list once it arrives.
For the radiator hookup I'm going to use Pegasus Racing and their line of silicon hose and connectors. Once I know what I bought fits and works I'll provide that list as well.
Here are some pictures along the way so far
The entire radiator core setup (radiator, condenser, oil, trans and intercooler) were purchased a package from AutoRad in Georgia. It's a family run business and they have great tech support.
The setup arrived in several well packaged boxes. they do provide very minimal instructions. If you're undertaking this kind of a project then no instructions for this shouldn't be an issue. You can call them and they will answer any of your questions.
After you unbox the setup and lay it out yu will find they don't include all of the bolts needed. This isn't by fault but by design. I'll point out here soon where you need to provide harware.
Pulling the factory core off is fairly straight forward and placing the largest main new core piece back too. Once the main core piece is installed and I suggest leaving all the bolts loose until the end, you will bolt on the head light mounts. The headlight mounts foit very well and line up nice. I did need to make the square holes larger using a file. This is one of a few adjustments to the setup I've had to do to get it all to fit. You will need to remove the fender to headlight mount brackets from the old core and re use them here. Some of the bolts and or hardware youo need to go buy ends up here. You will need to provide new bolts and nuts here to mount the bracket to the fender. Its easiest if you mount the bracket to the headlight bucket and then the bracket to the fender.
Now with the main core and the headlight buckets attached you can add on the radiator and reservoir to the core support. The radiator shroud is amazing. There is no waste of space at all and it 100% encompasses the back side of the radiator. There are 2 x 2135 CFM fans from Maradyne model number M142K. Both are low profile which made me happy.
After you mount up the new core support, the radiator, AC condenser, trans and oil cooler you quickly find out that you have no room to mount the intercooler. I called AutoRad and they are expecting you to cut the front lower valance panel to fit them. This I wasn't aware of and still haven't decided my direction yet. At the moment I'm not cutting the panel. I may opt to use what was the oil cooler to now be the intercooler. I'll know more later.
My plans for the AC is to use all flexible lines including at the drier. I'll mount the drier up front where it typically is located. There is a tab there I can use and I may be able to shoe horn it in there. I'm starting to list out the connectors and hose needed to complete the hookup. Ill provide that complete list once it arrives.
For the radiator hookup I'm going to use Pegasus Racing and their line of silicon hose and connectors. Once I know what I bought fits and works I'll provide that list as well.
Here are some pictures along the way so far
Attachments
I'm guessing your oil cooler will not be nearly large enough to support the cooling needs of the supercharger intercooler. What are the core dimensions of that heat exchanger? Looks like that one will work well if you can get it to fit.
I just noticed the location of your oil cooler. That's cool! Pun intended.
I just noticed the location of your oil cooler. That's cool! Pun intended.
Hey folks, after trial fitting the motor and the over all placement looking good. I pulled the motor back out with the intention of installing the converter. I ran into an issue with the converter. the converter would not seat fully. After some tech support with Jakes Performance we determined the converter needed to go back. The fix was the stator splines didn't fit correctly with the billet input shaft. I was glad they found the cause and they quickly (3 week turn around) sent me a corrected converter. Once the new converted was placed up on the input shaft it went in fully as designed.
The engine is back in the car and I've bolted it to the transmission. I've been spending a lot time working out the connectivity issues for each connection for the various systems.
I've added two picture showing the input shaft and converter. I know you can't tell it doesn't fit from the pictures.
The fuel tank is in the car, had 3 out of 4 of the vents welded shut and then on the 4th used a compression fiitting to AN -6. This single vent line from the fuel tank will run a special vent vapor can from II Much Engineering. I'll include some pictures of the vent system. This vent system can be mounted either as shown or a larger single hole and flush with the trunk floor.
I've run the power wires to the tank and made sure the two leads are twisted a minimum of 7 twists per foot. The power lines from the fuel module are twisted as the rest of the hardness that I had to create is also. The point of the twists it reduce any outside electrical interference. The fuel pump at the tank takes a special fitting that I obtained from Vapor Works part number FMPLUGKIT. You will find this part number and the rest of them in the spreadsheet I've posted in a prior posts.
I starting running the engine harness and mounting the various computers and Power Distribution Center
The engine is back in the car and I've bolted it to the transmission. I've been spending a lot time working out the connectivity issues for each connection for the various systems.
I've added two picture showing the input shaft and converter. I know you can't tell it doesn't fit from the pictures.
The fuel tank is in the car, had 3 out of 4 of the vents welded shut and then on the 4th used a compression fiitting to AN -6. This single vent line from the fuel tank will run a special vent vapor can from II Much Engineering. I'll include some pictures of the vent system. This vent system can be mounted either as shown or a larger single hole and flush with the trunk floor.
I've run the power wires to the tank and made sure the two leads are twisted a minimum of 7 twists per foot. The power lines from the fuel module are twisted as the rest of the hardness that I had to create is also. The point of the twists it reduce any outside electrical interference. The fuel pump at the tank takes a special fitting that I obtained from Vapor Works part number FMPLUGKIT. You will find this part number and the rest of them in the spreadsheet I've posted in a prior posts.
I starting running the engine harness and mounting the various computers and Power Distribution Center
Attachments
The radiator setup I bought from AutoRad didn't come with a intercooler overflow reservoir so I bought a unit from Summit Racing. I the reservoir is a Canton and part number 800-200 and the Canton cap is part number 81-016. The plan is to mount in on the drivers side next to the radiator reservoir and use NPT to AN fittings for connectivity.
I attached the latest updated major parts list and sources.
I attached the latest updated major parts list and sources.
Attachments
I've started to mock up the heater lines and radiator hoses. The radiators hoses are silicone and from Pegasus Racing. They sell various hoses and you simply couple them together. They sell the needed 1 1/2 to 1 3/8 hoses and you don't need to make this adjustment in a coupler. The hose already makes the transition for you.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
101 - 120 of 130 Posts
