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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I purchased a complete set of electric window regulators off of eBay. The regulators also came with the wiring harness. But this isn't about the harness, this is about how I went about cleaning and lubing the OEM regulators. After everything was delivered, I quickly set out to make sure the motors were still functional. When they all moved I was happy that I didn't have to go out and buy a replacement. At this point I have already completed 3 of the 4 regulators and figured I'd put up a post on how I did this. So, I'll jump in and get this started.

I clamped one of the regulators in my vice and removed the motor by removing the 3 7/16" bolts.
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Next, I removed the tension spring on the back side. This spring is the counter weight of the window. In the video that's later, you'll see how the regulator moves slower in one direction than the other. This is because there's no weight on the regulator.
Remember, to reinstall this in the correct position.

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After I removed the motor and spring, I soaked all of the moving joints with AeroKroil. This is an aviation grade deep penetrating fluid. Then moving the arm worked the fluid in all of the joints to loosen everything up.

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While the gears and arm are soaking I start on the motor. For 50 years old these motors are in very good condition.

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On the end of the motor is an adjustment for the internal worm gear. I just barely loosen the lock nut and only slightly back the screw out. I didn't want to change any adjustments to the motor. Just want to remove any tension so the motor will spin freely.
Remove the small gear set and wheel from the motor assembly.

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Remove the outer cover screw and the cover.

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Now you can see the old dried out grease. Wipe this out as best as you can. Using an acid brush, brake cleaner, and keeping the motor in an upright position, clean out the old grease. Make sure you get into the worm drive area. It's at this point I will hook up battery power and spin the worm drive, forwards and backwards. I use compressed air to dry and get rid of any lingering grease. Then reclean the cavity, then dry again. The body/chassis of the motor/housing is ground. The terminals inside the connector are forward and reverse. Once that is clean, I started in on the gear set. I use a nylon toothbrush and clean out all of the grease. I then blow it dry with compressed air.

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Because the metal side of the gear set is rusted, into the sand blaster it goes. Keeping the plastic side of the gear set in my palm, I keep the nozzle away as far as possible and blast the gear and surface metal clean. Spray again with brake cleaner to remove the blasting media and dry with compressed air.

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After degreasing the outside of the motor housing, I tape up the housing with masking tape to keep out any blasting media. I put a paper towel inside the gear cavity to keep the media out of the worm gear. Then into the blaster, once again keeping the nozzle as far back as possible. Then clean with brake cleaner, and compressed air. I also, blast the small cover to remove any rust, trying to keep any galvanizing.

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I then use VHT Satin Clear engine paint and spray the bare aluminum to keep it from corroding again. I also spray the small cover too, inside and out. Once dry, reassemble the small cover onto the motor housing.

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Next I start in on the regulator. I clean as much of the old nasty grease off as possible. I use a nylon brush, a plastic scraper, and the acid brush for those hard to reach places. Once I got that completed, it was on to the wire wheel to clean off any surface rust.

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Sorry, I missed a couple of photos here. Using the synthetic grease I got from my friend at the Chevy dealer, I packed the worm gear cavity, lightly brushed the inside of the gear cavity and the plastic side of the gear. Make sure you put grease inside the little gear axel hole. Then push the gear into the cavity slowly, allowing the grease to ooze out on the axel hole. Wipe away any grease on the outside. Then run the motor with the battery both forwards and backwards. I then removed the gear again and wipe away any excess grease in the cavity, then re-insert the gear.
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Using marine grade white lithium grease, put a coat on the bare metal of the gear and in the teeth of the gear and set aside for now.

With the regulator again clamped in the vice. Work the lithium grease into all of the moving joints as possible. Move the regulator while doing this. Careful on to pinch any fingers. Then wipe away any excess. Re-install the spring. Put a little white grease in the motor drive gear hole and then re-install the motor making sure the gears are engaged.
I like to put a little grease on the regulator gear.

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I have a short video clip to show the operation, but cant find how to attach it. Any help with that would be appreciated.

Good luck
 

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I may have to use this sequence of cleaning tips as I move along... I'll do that while it's getting the paint done..It'll give me time to do it and with Winter coming I'll have time.
 
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HI
There is dedicated ""Linkage Grease"" OR ""Body hardware grease """
Typically the white grease found on OEM linkages locks window regulators . Not only lubes but is firm body that promotes lube and prevents water penetrating .
Hydrated calcium
made by Castrol or BP called PH Grease

Motor internal gearbox grease
General rule
Polyurea grease used where a very very long life span is required
Lithium in any combination does not last as long as above
Use either of the above in the incorrect recipe will shorten gear life
There are at least 20 combinations of each just in SHELL

The best idea would be to cross reference grease used in genuine manuals

Electric motor bushings
Type Olite ,a porous bushing that absorbs oil -use gear oil
Type solid bushing ,, Polaris starter motor lube ,graphite grease, VERY slippery
 

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hi Since investigating further

General linkages ,pivot points --zinc oxide and /or calcium grease

Worm drive are very hard wearing and need alot of antiwear additives
Above would also be good
or the GM 19257121 synthetic grease above from Summit speed shop
Poly urea is available but the GM grease would be easiest to source

Motor bushings
light oil
moly graphite grease
PTFE grease above
 
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