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I may have an inexpensive solution to converting the 70 - 72 SS style instrument cluster idiot light package to a gauge setup. This holds true for the Monte Carlo dash as well. I'm installing an idiot light Monte Carlo dash in my car, but didn't want the lights, and did not want to install gauges under the dash. The conversion kits from the aftermarket suppliers are just too expensive, and they still don't offer the oil pressure gauge I wanted. The gauges in the photos are Chevrolet gauges, believe it or not. They came out of a mid 80s vintage Chevy Surburban. Check out the picture, let me know what you guys think. I want honest opinions. I'm not past the point of no return yet as far as housing modifications go. I had to hold the gauges in their approximate locations to take these pictures. But, if this looks it might work, this may offer a very economic solution to converting these instrument panels. The only thing missing is a tach, but it will have a volt meter, and oil pressure gauge, and a temp gauge, all in dash.





 

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Looks good to me...What about the connections? Any probs?

T
 

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I'll have to find a wiring diagram for the Chevy trucks so I can figure out how to hook them up. That shouldn't be a problem though. I do want to test them before I install the cluster.

It looks like these are going to be a snap to install. It's only going to take some minor modifications to the clam shell that holds the gauges in place, and the faces of the gauges have to be trimmed so that they'll fit inside the plastic housing. But it's all out of sight once they're installed.
 

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Hey, i just bought an aftermarket conversion kit from iodot lights to gauges. You are right about how expensive they are, but if you have the money then why not? You will get the correct factory look. Although you will not have the oil pressure gauge, I think the stock appearance is better. But hey that is a great idea man!


 

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It'd be great to find a Chevy truck of the same vintage with a factory tach to take the place of the clock. But those are few and far between. Most all of them place the fuel gauge to the right of the speedometer. I have seen a few trucks with factory tachs in that hole, but they are rare.
 

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Looks good to me. For that final touch I would get some dayglow orange paint and touch up all the pointers.
 

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I have been working on a drop in tach to replace the broken clock or clock delete plate. The one in the picture is from a early 70 Camaro but the only difference between it and the factory chevelle tach is the face. The Camaro tachs are easier to find in the yard. With a little mod to the clock delete plate I was ablt to mount the tach and with two wires for power and ground it will connect to the existing circuit board without out mod. The tach wire goes direct from tach to coil. http://home.comcast.net/~txss/index.html
 

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Steve.

Any pics or how to's on the mods?

Been wantin' to try this for a while.

TIm
 

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Originally posted by Steve S:
I have been working on a drop in tach to replace the broken clock or clock delete plate. The one in the picture is from a early 70 Camaro but the only difference between it and the factory chevelle tach is the face. The Camaro tachs are easier to find in the yard. With a little mod to the clock delete plate I was ablt to mount the tach and with two wires for power and ground it will connect to the existing circuit board without out mod. The tach wire goes direct from tach to coil. http://home.comcast.net/~txss/index.html
Sweet!

Randy- Have you figured out the wiring yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Steve, that's exactly what I'm looking for! I want to take the clock out and replace it with a tach, but retain the fuel gauge on the left hand side. Second gen Camaro? I'm going to AB's this weekend!

J, yes, I figured the wiring out. It was pretty simple. I bought a temp sender and oil sender and wired them to a 12 volt battery, and then just started experimenting until I found the correct way to hook them up. I even went so far as to throw the temp sender in a boiling pot of water, and I made a rig to pressurize the oil pressure sender so I could verify that the wiring was correct. I will have pictures posted in the next few days.
 

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Don't have any pics yet but I started with the clock delete plate because it will drop in and has dash lights. Drilled out the two small rivets that hold the blank face. Dissasembled the tach, removed the face, movement and the circuit board. Clearanced the clock delete plastic so the tach movement would fit in the center. Drilled three holes to clear the three mounts for the tach face. Put the movement in from the back and with the three screws mounted the face. Three big drops of epoxy on the back of the movement holds the tach circuit board. Reconnected the two tach movement wires to the tach circuit board. Soldered three wires for the rest of the connections for the tach. For ground and power I crimped on terminal lugs that will fit under a screw(closest screw going into the metal gauge housing) for ground and on the Fuel gauge stud for power. The third wire goes to the coil.
 
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