You mentioned sensor above the left exhaust manifold—this is the head temp; this will also register 20-40 degrees hotter. 220 at the head is about right
I'd read up about cooling systems if I were you. A 160 thermostat isn't going to cure an overheating condition. GM engineers designed a system to run at 195* minimum when fully warmed-up. People who would tell me stuff like "run a cooler thermostat" would have zero credibility in my book, cuz I'd wonder how they got smarter and more experienced than the GM automotive engineers. Just my $0.02Yep, we have been at Moody for 3 years and love it! Trying to stay another 3 actually!! But thanks for the advice. I'm heading to Autozone in a few minutes to pick up a Tstat and one of those solid state VR715 regulators (pulsing lights), and I'm torn between the 180 and 160. I may go with the 160 since it seems to want to hit 240-250 easily and it's always hot down here.
I think I'd set the timing correctly and make sure the fuel mix is right before I spend money on fans and clutches . Also the IR temp gun is on sale at Harbor Freight right now for $16.99. Im going to get one myself . Sweeeet car BTW
You're just shootin' in the dark until you get a reliable baseline configuration. If a 160* thermostat was installed, it ain't stock. Somebody's been tinkering.Flushed the radiator, added new coolant. Pulled thermostat and it was a 160. So, I thought maybe it had gone bad, so I picked up another 160 tstat at Autozone for $12. Put it in and buttoned everything up. Test drive, still was cruising at 210, and in traffic bumped up to 230. The sensor is in the stock location, just above the left side exhaust manifold. The shroud looks to be correct and hugs the fan tightly. The radiator looks to be in good condition both on exterior and the interior (from what I can see with a flashlight). The overflow tube is clear. I also ran the heater to clean out the heater core, and it was producing heat like it should and the lines were warm. The 7 bladed fan has some resistance when engine is cold, and slightly more resistance when engine is hot.
But, I'm still thinking the gauge or sender is suspect... This car was recently restored/rebuilt and it runs like a dream, but according to the gauge, it runs at 240+ if sitting in traffic. I've stopped several times, popped the hood, no burning smell, no steam, no boiling, nothing coming out of the overflow, fan turns fine, nothing coming from tstat housing, nothing coming from any lines, nothing leaking on the ground. I'm not a Chevelle expert, but I'm scratching my head at this point.
Something also to consider,,,,,,,,,,, Your fan blade. It is not a 3947772 blade. Not sure what fan blade it is. A 1970 -396/454 with VO-1 cooling or some call it H.D. The fan blade is a 3947772 and it is STAMPED with these numbers.
This way you have NO doubt what fan blade is on your car.
Why this fan blade and why are the numbers stamped on it???????
This blade was designed for the B.B. cars with A/C and or H.D. cooling.
Also this 394772 blade has the correct pitch to draw air through the heat exchanger and " Also very important",,, It will remove the SUPER HEATED AIR from the engine bay. ( everyone blames vapor lock on EVERYTHING else. Most of time your engine bay is NOT like it left the factory. Parts are MISSING,,,,,The Super Heated air is staying under the hood and " NOT " being EXPELLED!!!)
My one owner 70 SS 454-M/22 car has the VO-1 with A/C, The 3947772 blade was part of the FACTORY Pkg. The org. clutch was made by EATON, You will hit the Lottery before you find an Eaton Clutch!
I am a Geeser, I would do Four items.
1- Heat Gun
2- A new Mech. Temp. Gauge. ( the first time I did this, I duct taped a mech. gauge to the windshield and go for a ride) Write down speeds & Temps.
3- Get a correct fan blade and make SURE your clutch is working.
4- correct any out of order items. Thermostats, I have a 180 & a 160 in Two different cars both with Q-Jets, Other than warm/up time=" NO DIFFERENCE " Thats your call.
If you revert back to the factory Org. cooling system set up, Your system will function properly. Over the years items get changed, Then you have issues. Take it " One step at a time ".
The- O.E.M. fan blade AKA 3947772 has curved tips WHY? The REAL O.E.M. 772 blades with curved tips match the radius of the plastic 1970 fan shroud. Do the Repo. blades have curved tips? The Repo I bought Did not and it MACHINED a hole in the Factory fan shroud. That blade did not make it to "door stop" statis,,, It went to the F^!%$EN scrap!
Love everything about your 70 wagon. That’s my next purchase!I agree Randy. Chevrolet designed it to do a job. So far for me , The last fifty years that I have owned and driven my LS-5/M-22 El Camino. No issues so far, So I do believe Chevrolet got this right...:thumbsup:
My one owner SS 454 and my FAKE SS 454, AKA(468), both have O.E.M. cooling systems. My 468 driver has over 41.000 Highway miles on, So far So good. Yes I do have an Electric fan, I blows the KOLD AIR through the Evaporator to the inside of my wagon...:laugh: