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Discussion Starter #1
Like Jimmy, I too am having starter trouble. When the delco factory style unit failed about 3 months ago, I replaced it with a gm rebuilt unit. This one dragged and sounded weak from day one. I put up with it until about a month ago and decided to replace it with a gm hi-perf mini starter. Paid $200 for it and it worked strongly (sounds like a Chrysler) but would grind every other crank, just as the key would be released from the start position. No shimming helped, so I went back to a rebuilt original delco unit. This one was strong but again grinds at the end of the crank cycle. Doesn't really grind during the starting, only when the key is released. It would seem that the drive gear doesn't pull back in time. No amount of shimming has solved the problem. Flywheel appears to be ok. I am at a loss as to why 2 styles of starters are doing this, the original one didn't and had no shims at all. Wish it hadn't gone bad.

Any ideas? Anyone wanna buy a perf starter? I really didn't care for the Chrsyler sound anyway, it just didn't sound "chevrolet" if you know what I mean.
 

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After making the original post, I went back and looked at some older ones similar in nature. I realized that I do not have a support brace on my starter, just the 2 long bolts holding it in. Could this be my problem, did 70' models come with a support brace? Where does it connect at each end?

[This message has been edited by DAVID IN GA (edited 02-27-2000).]
 

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David, the actual starter to block bolts have a serrated shank, to center the starter motor on the block, and the support on the end of it. The serrated bolts make sure the starter installs straight on the block and properly aligned with the ring gear teeth. If you don't have these bolts, or they are worn out, letting the starter install offset a bit, this could be your problem.

Also, the soleniod plunger could be sticking just a bit on release, so you might check that also.

Chevrolet gives a "paperclip" clearance for a proper starter to ring gear spec. Remove the soleniod from the starter, engage the bendix gear with the soleniod plunger, and check for a paperclip's clearance in the bendix to ring gear backlash. Shim accordingly.

Only mini-starter I use anymore is the IMI-High Torque unit. Works, doesn't break, doesn't have plastic hard parts inside like the GM one does, uses the Nippon-Denso motor, great one. Never broke one of the IMIs.
 

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Hey IgnitionMan or any others,

Don't mean to barge in on this post, but does anyone know if you can purchase a diff. nosecone/mtg bolt piece on the nippon-denso mini-hitorq starters. The one I have has parallel bolts and I need offset to mount. Unfortunately, I bought it at a swap meet and expected my block to be drilled for both mtg setups, but no such luck.
Any help wld be appreciated.

pls email me.

------------------
69ht383>Smokumchevy
TC member#610
Smokum's '69 pics

[This message has been edited by smokumchevy (edited 02-27-2000).]
 
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