It said nomad on a 68 ??
I thought Chevrolet stopped making them in the late 50's
69 Nomad Wagon Build
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I thought Chevrolet stopped making them in the late 50's
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yes it did, they had the shorty eyebrows like the 300/300deluxe cars also...
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there were nomad wagons[4dr] for 68-72 model years
Nice ! Did not know that .there were nomad wagons[4dr] for 68-72 model years
Now I want one lol
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135 Posts
Another quick update: Injured myself crawling under the car and have been out of action for the past 2 weeks. Back at it today. Couple things:
Gas cap - car came with a vented cap (originally a 6 cylinder car with 5/16 fuel line and no vent in tank). I ordered a non-vented cap from SS396.com but it won't work. The tabs that catch the slots in the filler neck are too wide and, even if they were not too wide, that throat is too deep for the cap to meaningfully engage the filler neck and seal it off. I browsed thru the Gates online catalog and found part number 31601. Pretty much an exact match for the gas cap that was on the car except it is non-vented.
I bought the engine about 8 years ago (yeah, project is taking FOREVER). I did get the intake installed back on the engine before I hurt myself. I decided to clean the injectors. The attached picture of the green cool-aid is the actual "gas" that was still in the fuel rail.
Picture of gas tank is the final picture before it was installed.
Goal now is to have it running before the end of April. Not much left to do to get it to run - mock up temporary exhaust, fix transmission coolant lines, route and connect up the engine harness/PCM.
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Gas cap - car came with a vented cap (originally a 6 cylinder car with 5/16 fuel line and no vent in tank). I ordered a non-vented cap from SS396.com but it won't work. The tabs that catch the slots in the filler neck are too wide and, even if they were not too wide, that throat is too deep for the cap to meaningfully engage the filler neck and seal it off. I browsed thru the Gates online catalog and found part number 31601. Pretty much an exact match for the gas cap that was on the car except it is non-vented.
I bought the engine about 8 years ago (yeah, project is taking FOREVER). I did get the intake installed back on the engine before I hurt myself. I decided to clean the injectors. The attached picture of the green cool-aid is the actual "gas" that was still in the fuel rail.
Picture of gas tank is the final picture before it was installed.
Goal now is to have it running before the end of April. Not much left to do to get it to run - mock up temporary exhaust, fix transmission coolant lines, route and connect up the engine harness/PCM.
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135 Posts
Well, apparently my "calendar fu" is weak - April 30 was last Friday and I did not start the car by then. I did get it on May 2, though! First time it made noise in 10 years. It moves, too! I don't have the DBW gas pedal installed yet so it just idled out of the barn and then in reverse, idled back in. It moved under it's own power!
It's throwing a code, though. And, it won't idle in gear with the brake on.
Back brakes don't work.
Lot's of work to do to get it road worthy.
Thanks to everyone that followed, commented, answered questions, offered advice etc.!
Thanks,
David
It's throwing a code, though. And, it won't idle in gear with the brake on.
Back brakes don't work.
Lot's of work to do to get it road worthy.
Thanks to everyone that followed, commented, answered questions, offered advice etc.!
Thanks,
David
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135 Posts
Hey Leo,
Thanks!
The pedal is hooked up. Just not "installed". I can rev the engine with it.
It's running weird - it surges, sometimes in gear it idles high, sometimes it dies. Sometimes it idles like it has a "cam" in it, sometimes it idles smoothly. Any ideas on that? I haven't actually driven it yet. Needs more work before I can get it on the road.
Thanks,
David
Thanks!
The pedal is hooked up. Just not "installed". I can rev the engine with it.
It's running weird - it surges, sometimes in gear it idles high, sometimes it dies. Sometimes it idles like it has a "cam" in it, sometimes it idles smoothly. Any ideas on that? I haven't actually driven it yet. Needs more work before I can get it on the road.
Thanks,
David
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135 Posts
Hey Leo,
Well, you were right, actually. The code being thrown was P0068.I thought maybe it was because I didn't have the pedal bolted down. Tried that and it still threw the code and idled crappy. Disconnected the MAF sensor and now it idles great, idles in gear, doesn't vibrate like it's going to come out of the engine bay, doesn't surge and it doesn't throw the code.
The guy that programmed the PCM asked if I was going to run a MAF and I said yes. Could it be that he programmed it as a "no"?. But, never the less - YAY!
Transmission coolant lines are leaking now. I think the inverted flare fittings in the radiator are messed up. I tightened one of them slightly and it started dripping even more. Brand new stainless steel lines.
Anyway, as I said previously, lots of work to do to get it road worthy.
Thanks,
David
Well, you were right, actually. The code being thrown was P0068.I thought maybe it was because I didn't have the pedal bolted down. Tried that and it still threw the code and idled crappy. Disconnected the MAF sensor and now it idles great, idles in gear, doesn't vibrate like it's going to come out of the engine bay, doesn't surge and it doesn't throw the code.
The guy that programmed the PCM asked if I was going to run a MAF and I said yes. Could it be that he programmed it as a "no"?. But, never the less - YAY!
Transmission coolant lines are leaking now. I think the inverted flare fittings in the radiator are messed up. I tightened one of them slightly and it started dripping even more. Brand new stainless steel lines.
Anyway, as I said previously, lots of work to do to get it road worthy.
Thanks,
David
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3,269 Posts
Maybe a bur on one of the tube ends or at the rad...
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135 Posts
I messed with that stainless line for a couple hours over a few days and I could not make it stop leaking. Bought a 1/2-20 male to 9/16-18 female inverted flare brass fitting and a 3/8 tube (radiator outlets are 5/16 and transmission are 3/8), screwed the brass into the radiator and made a new mild steel hardline. After installing it and jacking with it for 30 minutes or so, it is leak free now.
MAF sensor issue turned out to be a huge vacuum leak - failed to cinch down the intake manifold. Did that and now it runs fine with MAF plugged in.
New power steering hoses were doing the same thing the tranny cooler lines were doing so I messed with those and got them leak-less also.
Install the front sway bar and the car can be on the ground again. Finish up the gas pedal install, fix the brakes, install driver side front fender, steering wheel and a seat and it will be ready to road test!
Thanks,
David
MAF sensor issue turned out to be a huge vacuum leak - failed to cinch down the intake manifold. Did that and now it runs fine with MAF plugged in.
New power steering hoses were doing the same thing the tranny cooler lines were doing so I messed with those and got them leak-less also.
Install the front sway bar and the car can be on the ground again. Finish up the gas pedal install, fix the brakes, install driver side front fender, steering wheel and a seat and it will be ready to road test!
Thanks,
David
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346 Posts
glad to hear you're making progress! I'm new here but also have a 69 nomad. picked it up as a driver quality annnnd turns out it's got a rod knocking. looking for a 350 to swap in. good luck with your road test!
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Man that is a slick looking wagon! That paint will polish up easily too!
Does it have the clamshell tailgate or the drop gate.. I am not sure if the clamshell came in a Chevelle wagon of not till later in the 70's?
Window goes in the tailgate right?
I had a 72 Kingswood estate 9 passenger wagon with a BB400 man that thing was a Tank and gobbled gasoline like a calf sucking on Momma.
But what a ride and it could haul more than junk...It could haul some azz when you put your foot into it. I miss that beast!
Does it have the clamshell tailgate or the drop gate.. I am not sure if the clamshell came in a Chevelle wagon of not till later in the 70's?
Window goes in the tailgate right?
I had a 72 Kingswood estate 9 passenger wagon with a BB400 man that thing was a Tank and gobbled gasoline like a calf sucking on Momma.
But what a ride and it could haul more than junk...It could haul some azz when you put your foot into it. I miss that beast!
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346 Posts
Thanks! yeah the body needs small amounts of work and then I'll worry about the paint. It is the dual action tailgate. Opens out and down. Just worried bout getting a good.motor in her now and then swapping some disc brakes on the front.
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3,269 Posts
Gotta Like the dual action tailgate...Nice.!
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135 Posts
Nice wagon, @69nomad350!
I let the engine run for about 10 minutes shortly after my last post. The transmission started leaking out of the pan. 4L80 out of a '04 2500HD pickup with about 160K on it and no previous maintenance performed. I did research about changing the filter and adding new fluid or not. It's very inconclusive. About 50-50 do it/don't do it. So, I bought a brand new drain pan and a gallon jug. Drained the fluid into the new drain pan. Cleaned the tranny pan (lots of metal in it), reinstalled the tranny pan with a new gasket and then poured the fluid in the drain pan into the gallon jug and then back into the trans. The factory pan gasket is pretty stout and it was not apparent were it was leaking. The bolts were all tight. It doesn't leak now, though. Its a little low, maybe 1/3 quart. Got the gas pedal installed, sway bar installed, driver side fender, seat and steering wheel all installed.
I hadn't started it in several days before today. Started the engine and it was running crappy again. Vacuum leak at the intake manifold, again. Tightened it up again and it ran ok. Despite not fixing the rear brakes, I drove it around the block today. The engine does not seem to have much power. I do have 2.76 gears but even in 1st gear it felt puny. There is a slight incline into the shop from the driveway - maybe 2-3 inches and at a smooth angle (not a 90 degree). I was backing the car up with the engine just idling. It hit that incline and stopped. I probably revved it to 3 grand and it couldn't make it up that little bitty incline. Rolled forward and got some momentum and it rolled over it.
The truck manifold on the passenger side seems like it needs to go. Had to grind the flange to clear the frame. The exhaust pipe has a flange that bolts to the manifold flange. Had to grind that for clearance also. But, it seems like it still may be touching somewhere. Something is, anyway. While accelerating, there is a noise and vibration that stops when I let off the gas. Doesn't occur when the car is rolling with the engine at idle or under braking. It seems to be coming from the passenger side of the car.
The good news? It left my property under its own power for the first time in a decade!. Despite the issues, still feeling excited. Need to fix the brakes to I can really drive it.
Thanks,
David
I let the engine run for about 10 minutes shortly after my last post. The transmission started leaking out of the pan. 4L80 out of a '04 2500HD pickup with about 160K on it and no previous maintenance performed. I did research about changing the filter and adding new fluid or not. It's very inconclusive. About 50-50 do it/don't do it. So, I bought a brand new drain pan and a gallon jug. Drained the fluid into the new drain pan. Cleaned the tranny pan (lots of metal in it), reinstalled the tranny pan with a new gasket and then poured the fluid in the drain pan into the gallon jug and then back into the trans. The factory pan gasket is pretty stout and it was not apparent were it was leaking. The bolts were all tight. It doesn't leak now, though. Its a little low, maybe 1/3 quart. Got the gas pedal installed, sway bar installed, driver side fender, seat and steering wheel all installed.
I hadn't started it in several days before today. Started the engine and it was running crappy again. Vacuum leak at the intake manifold, again. Tightened it up again and it ran ok. Despite not fixing the rear brakes, I drove it around the block today. The engine does not seem to have much power. I do have 2.76 gears but even in 1st gear it felt puny. There is a slight incline into the shop from the driveway - maybe 2-3 inches and at a smooth angle (not a 90 degree). I was backing the car up with the engine just idling. It hit that incline and stopped. I probably revved it to 3 grand and it couldn't make it up that little bitty incline. Rolled forward and got some momentum and it rolled over it.
The truck manifold on the passenger side seems like it needs to go. Had to grind the flange to clear the frame. The exhaust pipe has a flange that bolts to the manifold flange. Had to grind that for clearance also. But, it seems like it still may be touching somewhere. Something is, anyway. While accelerating, there is a noise and vibration that stops when I let off the gas. Doesn't occur when the car is rolling with the engine at idle or under braking. It seems to be coming from the passenger side of the car.
The good news? It left my property under its own power for the first time in a decade!. Despite the issues, still feeling excited. Need to fix the brakes to I can really drive it.
Thanks,
David
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