Bryan - sorry I missed your post a couple of months ago.
And sorry I am not doing well at updating. But, honestly, I am doing nothing that is ground breaking. Finally, I apologize for the length of this post upfront.
Motor and transmission are in the car. The transmission was at a terrible angle. Basically pointing down toward the ground. Getting it leveled out so that it was closer to the proper angle required me to cut the transmission tunnel. That little side project took about 3 months. My fabrication skills suck
. Anyway, I used the factory cross member - cut the bracket off, flipped it around, welded bracket back on. Works great. I have not tried to hook the factory emergency brake back up yet so I will see how well it actually worked when I try that.
I tried to install the truck exhaust manifolds but the driver side manifold hits the frame rail. So, I bought some Patriot exhaust manifolds. They cleared the frame rails and appeared that they would work great. But, I found out when I tried to install the starter a few weeks later that the passenger side manifold is pulled in too tight and it hits the starter. So now I have a Patriot manifold on the drivers side and a truck manifold on the passenger side. Would that affect the AFR to the O2 sensor in a bad way? The Patriot manifold has a ball type end and came with a little 3 inch extension with a O2 sensor bung welded in. I plan to put the O2 sensor there so hopefully it will work out.
I have been fiddling with the wiring for months. Very low confidence in this area. I asked a few questions about wiring in the electrical forum Plus, the transmission tunnel project mentioned above pulled me away from the wiring. I am back to the wiring now. Something is different now though - I looked at the diagram and the actual harness after being away from it for a few months and something just clicked. I got several wires cut and terminated successfully. Confidence is now higher and progress is being made.
Drive shaft is cut and installed. 4L80 transmission yoke had a 1450 type u-joint. Original car driveshaft had a 1310 u-joint. There is no hybrid between these two so the driveshaft shop welded a new yoke on the driveshaft for a 1350 u-joint and installed a half 1450 / half 1350 u-joint.
I posted a few years ago how I modified a 2 door car style fuel sending unit to try to work in the wagon tank. I am still on that idea. I have a sending unit for an EEC regular car tank. I took the sending unit piece that the float moves (not sure what this is called) off the tube. Took the sock filter off. Put some of those old cheapie tubing bender mandrels in my vice and bent that short little tube so that it more close matches the angle of the stock wagon sending unit. Put a flare nut on the tube and double flared it. Got a piece of 3/8 tubing, cut it to the correct length allowing for the fuel pump, double flared one end and joined it with the sending unit with a 3/8 brass union (look at the older post of my work with this - it is very similar but much improved now). The end of the tube where the fuel pump will go on the new modified unit is at the same angle as the stock unit. I drilled a hole in the flange for a new piece of tubing. Supported the flange all around except for under the new hole and took a punch bigger than the hole and hit the flange over that hole a couple of times to sort of bevel it. Got a piece of 5/16 tubing about 8 inches long, bent it at 90 degrees in the middle and soldered it to the flange in the new hole. Spread some fuel resistant sealer on the soldered joint Now, just have to work out the fuel pump and the wires and get the sending unit piece installed back on the tube in a better place.
I ordered AutoMeter 5 inch diameter gauges for the dash. The dash is all apart for re-wiring. Plus, the dash bezel was broken in a few places and the dash pad was cracked and all dried out. Ordered a new bezel and pad. Took the gauge assembly out of the dash bezel and removed the factory speedometer and fuel gauge. Also removed the clear plastic piece on the front. The 5 in gauges are just slightly too big to fit in the hole. Took a Dremel tool and opened up the hole. Gauges fit in nicely. Another plus? I don't need 13 wires for all the bulbs in the dash now. Only need 8. Only problem I see is I lose the high beam indicator light and the brake light. I have ideas for that, though. I am not going to have a clock so I am going to modify that 2.25 inch "Chevelle" badge where a clock would go to be where the high beam and brake light indicators will go. I am going to cut out a square piece of metal in the original speedometer where the little bow tie high beam indicator is cut out. I am going to patch that into the badge right above the word Chevelle. Going to cut a rectangle below the word. That badge mounts in a "can" that has 2 bulbs to light it up. Perfect. Just have to fabricate a couple of "light tunnels".
Short term plan is to finish up fuel tank sender, run a new fuel line (car was originally a 6 cylinder and has only a 5/16 fuel line), get the intake installed back on the motor. Get enough wiring done to try and start the motor. I have been much more motivated since the floor pan work is done but not good enough. I think it will really motivate me to get the car back on the road if I hear the engine run.
I'll try to post some pictures if anyone is interested.