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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know where I can find a modern upgrade dash harness for a 69? It is a wagon but manual tailgate so that shouldn't matter. I only need the dash harness but it looks like AAW only sells it as a full kit....and the car came with a brand new engine harness and front light harness. thanks in advance.
 

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AAW sells just the dash harness. I assume it’s an idiot light dash and no air conditioning. Part# CH97506. If it a gauges dash and/or AC then they have that also. Just a different part number.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it is an idiot light dash but I want to upgrade to the ss gauges with tach. Oh wow ok. It is not an ac car but if there's a possibility of adding ac would it hurt to get the ac dash harness and store the wiring to use later?
 

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Well do as you wish however I have a real 69 SS and IMO the 69 factory gauges are not that great. I have idiot light dash and have aftermarket tach, oil pressure,water temp and volt gauges and believe they are superior.
I believe it would be ok to get a harness for AC and just not hook it up.
They offer 4 dash harnesses for a 69. Idiot light, idiot light with AC, factory gauges and factory gauges with AC.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well do as you wish however I have a real 69 SS and IMO the 69 factory gauges are not that great. I have idiot light dash and have aftermarket tach, oil pressure,water temp and volt gauges and believe they are superior.
I believe it would be ok to get a harness for AC and just not hook it up.
They offer 4 dash harnesses for a 69. Idiot light, idiot light with AC, factory gauges and factory gauges with AC.
Yeah i guess the tach built into the dash is why I like it, but only having notches instead of actual readings might keep me from swapping. Do they make a tach for the center spot in the dash? maybe it was a dash clock but mine just says chevelle there.
 

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I’m not sure if they make a tach for that center spot. If they did it would be too small. The tach that comes with the factory gauges isn’t bad. It’s the other indications that are poor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’m not sure if they make a tach for that center spot. If they did it would be too small. The tach that comes with the factory gauges isn’t bad. It’s the other indications that are poor.
That makes sense but I am only really buying to add tach on, the gauge cluster is fine but I like it to all be in the dash...its an automatic I am just curious rpm at certain speeds.
 

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it is an idiot light dash but I want to upgrade to the ss gauges with tach. Oh wow ok. It is not an ac car but if there's a possibility of adding ac would it hurt to get the ac dash harness and store the wiring to use later?
Do you plan on installing a stock a/c unit? Then yes. If you go with Classic or Vintage air a/c then no. They have their own wiring harness.

The stock 69 a/c wiring harness is a separate add on harness from the engine and dash harness.

Wiring Harness, Air Conditioning, 1969 Chevelle @ OPGI.com
712183


712182
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
anybody have good install pics of getting the dash harness in? my current one doesn't look too bad but a few circuits on the fuse block dont seem to be getting power even tho the fuses are good. wish I could just fix the one that's in there. if I just take the steering wheel off and unscrew the dash could I get a better look at it?
 

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anybody have good install pics of getting the dash harness in? my current one doesn't look too bad but a few circuits on the fuse block dont seem to be getting power even tho the fuses are good. wish I could just fix the one that's in there. if I just take the steering wheel off and unscrew the dash could I get a better look at it?
If you can be more specific about what's not working, I might be able to help.

Dome light? head lights, bright lights, dash lights, have power to lighter, heater fan, radio, wipers, stop and tail lights. Do a walk-around inspection and list your ills. ....The more you give, the more you narrow down the issue.

I like pictures too. So if you see something questionable, post a picture. Let's see your spaghetti factory and get it straightened out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
all the exterior lights work including hazards....dash lights don't work...windshield wipers don't work. not sure if lighter just needs a new element it's fairly corroded. need a new bulb for dome light to test heater fan stopped working but it did work a couple weeks ago. Also thanks Dutch max headwork for popping into all of my threads with good info. new here and newish to classics so I'm still learning
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've got a multimeter and can use it been meaning to grab a cheap test light. would love to get a 12v probe too. can do some good testing with just the meter? I went looking around under the dash for obvious issues but didn't see anything
 

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Test lights are fast and easy, but a multi-meter will work.

Lets see what we have at the fuse box.
712774


Use your multi meter set to 20 volts dc, ground the black wire to a good ground. Use the red lead to probe each fuse position, but test it at both sides of the fuse and test it on the fuse holder clip instead of on the fuse itself. This will tell us if we have power to the fuse and if the fuse is making good contact to the fuse holder. If the holder is a rusty crusty mess, you'll have to clean the rust from them.

All the fuses on the left side should have power with the key off.

Turn the key to ignition position and all the fuses on the right side should have power. Don't leave the ignition in the on position for too long. If you have points ignition you could damage the points. What type of ignition do you have?

The isrt lps fuse will only show power if the headlight switch is pulled out at least 1 notch. The headlight knob has a rheostat to control the brightness of the lights, turn the knob to the right and stop before it clicks full right. You should have power at the instr lts fuse at this point.

If you turn the headlight switch to the full right position, the dome light should get power.

What do you have?

OH, I have a probe, never use it. Test light first if I just want to check for power and a multimeter if I need a voltage, amp, or ohm(resistance reading)

Did you recently pull your dash out? You may lack a dash ground. The instrument lights, dome light, and wipers are reliant on good ground to the dash.

712775
 

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anybody have good install pics of getting the dash harness in? my current one doesn't look too bad but a few circuits on the fuse block dont seem to be getting power even tho the fuses are good. wish I could just fix the one that's in there. if I just take the steering wheel off and unscrew the dash could I get a better look at it?
You dont have to take steering wheel off but you do have to drop the column down by unbolting the support bracket. Will also have to remove knobs from heater controls, remove radio knobs and fastners, remove headlght switch, remove knob from wipers. Then remove all the screws around the perimeter of the instrument bezel.
Sounds like you lost your ground for instrument lights and wiper switch. I would leave the cigarette lighter nonfunctioning. They can easily malfunction and eithe r start a fire or melt the instrument bezel.
When putting instrumdnt bezel back in it helps to have a second set of hands till you get several of the screws installed.
Also if the instrument lights have the original bulb sockets and you disturb them they are likely to fall apart and drop the bulbs into the gauges. They are famous for doing so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Test lights are fast and easy, but a multi-meter will work.

Lets see what we have at the fuse box. View attachment 712774

Use your multi meter set to 20 volts dc, ground the black wire to a good ground. Use the red lead to probe each fuse position, but test it at both sides of the fuse and test it on the fuse holder clip instead of on the fuse itself. This will tell us if we have power to the fuse and if the fuse is making good contact to the fuse holder. If the holder is a rusty crusty mess, you'll have to clean the rust from them.

All the fuses on the left side should have power with the key off.

Turn the key to ignition position and all the fuses on the right side should have power. Don't leave the ignition in the on position for too long. If you have points ignition you could damage the points. What type of ignition do you have?

The isrt lps fuse will only show power if the headlight switch is pulled out at least 1 notch. The headlight knob has a rheostat to control the brightness of the lights, turn the knob to the right and stop before it clicks full right. You should have power at the instr lts fuse at this point.

If you turn the headlight switch to the full right position, the dome light should get power.

What do you have?

OH, I have a probe, never use it. Test light first if I just want to check for power and a multimeter if I need a voltage, amp, or ohm(resistance reading)

Did you recently pull your dash out? You may lack a dash ground. The instrument lights, dome light, and wipers are reliant on good ground to the dash.

View attachment 712775
I did not recently pull the dash but I recently bought the car and don't have much info.

all the fuses on the left have power when the car is off the headlight fuse is only getting about 10-11v.

hei distributor.

once ignition in the on position none of the other fuses show 12v with headlights on or off. when the headlight switch is clicked all the way to the left counter clockwise the dash lights come on and my temp light comes on....the dummy light isn't hooked up.to a sensor because I have a mechanical gauge so that may be the reason for that. dash lights came on with that but no wipers still and it seems like the whole right bank of fuses is not getting power but they do all have continuity

it's also suspect that the radio is working (aftermarket) and on switched power soooooooooo I guess some of those fuses mustbe getting power
 

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If your dash lights came on by turning switch all the way left then there is nothing wrong with instrument wiring. Think I would try a new headlight switch. As for the wipers turn the switch to on and then test the wires at the wiper motor for voltage. If you have voltage there then bad wiper motor. If no voltage there then switch is bad or switch isnt getting power or switch isnt grounded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
headlights are working fine. I just didn't think I had dash lights didn't know to turn it. there is no voltage at wiper motor with switch on and ignition on. none of the fuses on right bank have power
 

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Keep the stock light system and use a triple Autometer mechanical gage set up. You can put it under the dash or in the glove box or under the dash. They look vintage because Autometer never changed the design since the 60s.

The indicator light system will alert you much faster then the gage will..
 
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