Test lights are fast and easy, but a multi-meter will work.
Lets see what we have at the fuse box.
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Use your multi meter set to 20 volts dc, ground the black wire to a good ground. Use the red lead to probe each fuse position, but test it at both sides of the fuse and test it on the fuse holder clip instead of on the fuse itself.
This will tell us if we have power to the fuse and if the fuse is making good contact to the fuse holder. If the holder is a rusty crusty mess, you'll have to clean the rust from them.
All the fuses on the left side should have power with the key off.
Turn the key to ignition position and all the fuses on the right side should have power. Don't leave the ignition in the on position for too long. If you have points ignition you could damage the points. What type of ignition do you have?
The isrt lps fuse will only show power if the headlight switch is pulled out at least 1 notch. The headlight knob has a rheostat to control the brightness of the lights, turn the knob to the right and stop before it clicks full right. You should have power at the instr lts fuse at this point.
If you turn the headlight switch to the full right position, the dome light should get power.
What do you have?
OH, I have a probe, never use it. Test light first if I just want to check for power and a multimeter if I need a voltage, amp, or ohm(resistance reading)
Did you recently pull your dash out? You may lack a dash ground. The instrument lights, dome light, and wipers are reliant on good ground to the dash.
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