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1969 convertible chevelle
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read up extensively on this issue. Have a 1" drop and about to change engine/trans. Looking to do headers. Hookers are clearly poor. Lemons sounds like he has the issue cured but can't be troubled to do a ceramic coating or anything else and for his prices I'm happy to not trouble him with my purchase.
I looked at muscle maxx and their site says they don't even make them for a 69?
Stainless works look like they work but I can't find any reviews? Anyone use them? Are they good over time? Ground clearance?
 

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I have old dynomax, which they don’t seem to make anymore but the summit house brand looks identical. The biggest improvement I noticed in reducing header scraping is getting the appropriate strength springs. I used to scrape them on speed bumps and big dips due to the spring bounce. When I switched to an Sc&c stage 2 kit many years ago my ride height dropped 2+” but I don’t scrape when I go slow anymore because the springs strength. I don’t remember if I have 450 or 550lb springs but UMI can probably set you up if needed since Sc&c went kaput.
 

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1969 convertible chevelle
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bought the car with the hotchkis drop done. Not sure what springs are under her. Just looking to avoid the problem entirely with the properly built headers if I can get them.
 

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Looking at hotchkis 1” drop springs, you most likely have 512 lb/in. My SPC springs are 550. So I think you have enough spring pressure to mitigate the bounce. As a reference the headers I mention above are currently sitting 4” off the ground and without issue as long as I’m careful. The fender height measurement from the ground, up the center of the wheel to the wheel well molding is 24.5-24.75”.
 

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Take a look at Hedman. I have a Hotchkis 1" drop all around and I ran the regular 1 5/8 and then 1 3/4 and I have had no ground clearance issues with either. My original Hedman 1 5/8's have been in service since '98, first on my '70, then on blue_69_malibu's car since 2012 or so. Quality pieces, in my experience.

-Dave
 
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If you are not racing, I recommend keeping your manifolds. You will lose some high rpm performance (the exhaust pulses come faster as rpms raise), but if you drive on roads/streets with speed bumps, or any 'hilly' terrain, 'banging' long tube headers is very common. Mostly drive in the 2k-4k rpm range? The manifolds are a 'better' choice.

"Shortie" headers are for looks.

My opinions.

Pete
 
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