Team Chevelle banner

68 won't turn off

3915 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  rickmack
I hope you don't mind, my 68 is actually a Camaro. I have a problem that just won't go away.

About 6 weeks ago my car started to not turn off when I turned the key to the off position.

The Car:
68 Camaro, 427, Crane HI-6 Iginition with PS-92 coil, HEI, stock alternator (1 year old), stock regulator (6 months old) with a diode (new today) soldered in-line, stock starter, aftermarket tach, good battery, brand new ignition switch (today), TH350 trans

*Car won't turn off
*Car will turn off when the key is in the off position and I move the shifter to reverse from park.
*After the car has been turned off, the GEN light and my tachometer light stay on until I disconnect the negative side of the battery.
*The negative battery terminal sparks a little when I push the negative connector back on.

What changed to make this start happening all of a sudden:
NOTHING, it just started one day.

What have I tried so far:
New ignition switch and key mech.
New inline diode to the 4th terminal on the external regulator.

What's wrong with this old Chevy?
1 - 1 of 6 Posts
Just who do you think you are posting in a Chevelle forum!
Just kidding!

First off, what is with all the diodes!!! I mean I can see the reasoning,--but this is a big no. Especially that diode on the 4th terminal of the voltage regulator!
that terminal needs "2 way communication" to the car's electrical system. A diode only allows current to flow in one direction. And you said you have a diode "in line" with the alternator--you mean on the main (+) line??? That must be one helluva big diode.

First off, take off all of these add-ons. Take off the voltage regulator and try a new one. One symptom of run-on is a stuck armature inside the VR. Then try another alternator. It doesn't matter if it's new or not, they don't know how to make stuff anymore for old cars it seems--unless it's AC/Delco.

I'll assume you kept your wiring stock and correctly wired your ignition and other add-ons correctly. If not, that could be your problem as well. Don't tie things directly to the battery. Things that get power when the engine is running or when the key is in a certain position need to be connected to the appropriate fuse box terminals. If the current draw is more than the rated fuse, use a relay to control those items.

I've hear of people "cheating" and trying connecting electrical items to such things as the alternator's output wire and battery (+) terminal as a quick tap, that leads to such problems, if that isn't your case, try the above stuff and let us know.


Creator of Team Chevelle's RADIO TECH for original audio questions and answers
See less See more
1 - 1 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.