Just who do you think you are posting in a Chevelle forum!
Just kidding!
First off, what is with all the diodes!!! I mean I can see the reasoning,--but this is a big no. Especially that diode on the 4th terminal of the voltage regulator!
that terminal needs "2 way communication" to the car's electrical system. A diode only allows current to flow in one direction. And you said you have a diode "in line" with the alternator--you mean on the main (+) line??? That must be one helluva big diode.
First off, take off all of these add-ons. Take off the voltage regulator and try a new one. One symptom of run-on is a stuck armature inside the VR. Then try another alternator. It doesn't matter if it's new or not, they don't know how to make stuff anymore for old cars it seems--unless it's AC/Delco.
I'll assume you kept your wiring stock and correctly wired your ignition and other add-ons correctly. If not, that could be your problem as well. Don't tie things directly to the battery. Things that get power when the engine is running or when the key is in a certain position need to be connected to the appropriate fuse box terminals. If the current draw is more than the rated fuse, use a relay to control those items.
I've hear of people "cheating" and trying connecting electrical items to such things as the alternator's output wire and battery (+) terminal as a quick tap, that leads to such problems, if that isn't your case, try the above stuff and let us know.
Joe
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Creator of Team Chevelle's RADIO TECH for original audio questions and answers

First off, what is with all the diodes!!! I mean I can see the reasoning,--but this is a big no. Especially that diode on the 4th terminal of the voltage regulator!

First off, take off all of these add-ons. Take off the voltage regulator and try a new one. One symptom of run-on is a stuck armature inside the VR. Then try another alternator. It doesn't matter if it's new or not, they don't know how to make stuff anymore for old cars it seems--unless it's AC/Delco.
I'll assume you kept your wiring stock and correctly wired your ignition and other add-ons correctly. If not, that could be your problem as well. Don't tie things directly to the battery. Things that get power when the engine is running or when the key is in a certain position need to be connected to the appropriate fuse box terminals. If the current draw is more than the rated fuse, use a relay to control those items.
I've hear of people "cheating" and trying connecting electrical items to such things as the alternator's output wire and battery (+) terminal as a quick tap, that leads to such problems, if that isn't your case, try the above stuff and let us know.
Joe
------------------
Creator of Team Chevelle's RADIO TECH for original audio questions and answers