[Samson68]

Discussion Starter • #1 • 25 m ago

Ok so I have an iron headed bbc car that’s back halved Dana 60 ladder bar n 33x 22 or so street radials. My coilovers have the adjustable perches off the axle they are eye to eye and I have two sets up upper holes to choose from that are only an inch in difference in height. The lowers perches I can move in increments of I’d say an inch in either direction. Currently the car has old vw shocks (for extension length purposes) and a set of 160 lbs in coilovers. Due to using what came w the car and in the trunk factor upon purchase I felt putting these together to see what I had in the end. Well I had to adjust the coilovers to maximum height to clear the freakin balloons of the tires out back I feel like the only give I have on pushing on the bumper is really just the air in those huge tires I’m feeling like I’ve basically locked the operation of my rear suspension w these coilovers. What’s a great place to start sorting this out? Imma weigh the 68 when my knee is better I just had surgery just wanted to know if anyone else has been here before

 

[mrpaticular]

A few good photos of your rear end setup will be helpful.

 

[Samson68]

 

[Samson68]

Here’s a few thanks for the reply

 

[mrpaticular]

To me it looks like the shocks do nothing, like a solid rod. The ladder bars appear to have a down angle toward the front. Flat is better. Do you need that tire size?

 

[bracketchev1221]

I would start by replacing the shocks with a set of single adjustable coil overs and the right spring. I ran strange shocks in my car and 130 and 138 springs. But my car was 3200 lbs with me in it. I went 1.25 in 60’ with the singles and with more power went 1.21 with the double adjustable shocks. Set the car height and see what length springs you can use. It looks like the lower mount can be flipped over and give you much longer length on the shocks.

 

[Samson68]

A few good photos of your rear end setup will be helpful.

If I go any lower I mma hit my quarter w tire I have very little room to play with

To me it looks like the shocks do nothing, like a solid rod. The ladder bars appear to have a down angle toward the front. Flat is better. Do you need that tire size?

Thats what I was thinking too the suspension is bound. It doesn’t do anything. Ok so parallel on the bars ? I do have that upper hole there but doesn’t that change center line pivot point? I’m assuming everything is wrong anyhow cuz hey so far everything has been lol no I do not need tires that tall only complaint would be gaining rpms at cruising speed but really it has 410s a th350 and the car doesn’t move till 2 k so economical value is out the window at this point anyway I’d like to know the proper adjustment I need to make vs installed height and spring pressure and get these bars to operate the way they should be. I do have a budget for a set of decent coilover s at the moment however itl b a min till I get diff tires I dunno the width of my rim currently

 

[Samson68]

I would start by replacing the shocks with a set of single adjustable coil overs and the right spring. I ran strange shocks in my car and 130 and 138 springs. But my car was 3200 lbs with me in it. I went 1.25 in 60’ with the singles and with more power went 1.21 with the double adjustable shocks. Set the car height and see what length springs you can use. It looks like the lower mount can be flipped over and give you much longer length on the shocks.

Ok I need to weigh this thing 160s seem too high I’m really guessing here but w my cage n everything I’m guessing I weigh in at 3700 plus. I would like the springs longer so I arrive at my lower mounting point on the shackle in the middle so I have room to adjust more ya know? Sounds to me like u guys are saying w the length I have now vs the spring rate and a little mild geometry blunder here I’ve locked the ladders to a solid position rendering it useless. Can I get away w keeping the same tires for now and get an adjustable set of coilovers to reduce height later to make up for the bar angles?

 

[Samson68]

So 2 inches longer on installed height c to c and maybe 140s w a single adjustable shock sounds like a great place to start?

 

[Samson68]

For sure I could flip that and get a longer reach. This car was a drag car in Mississippi ended up getting retired from owner for whatever reason and just like I’d totally do all good parts were stripped and stayed w owner and replaced w whatever they could find to get it functional to move it on so really I’m playing w a puzzle of what is missing what was swapped for make it work it’s outta here status ur damn right I’d strip my car of hi po parts if I’m getting rid of my race car is not upset one bit 😂

 

[Alwhite00]

Whomever welded the brackets on should never weld anything again. I would triple check everything the previous owner touched.

On top of the bad welds they welded it to the cast iron center section. Probably broke off a couple times and they just stuck it back on.

 

[Samson68]

Ok sorry bout the multiple replies here I just threw my digital torpedo at that bottom bar I’m a 3.3 degrees lower in the front than the rear on the ladders on the drivers side and 3.9 degrees lower on the pass I put the torpedo as close to the front eylet on the bar as possible. My over all eye to eye from pivot in front to bottom eye on diff is roughly 29 inches damn tape measure kept flopping around lol so for best separation geometry am I looking to keep my bars as close to 0 degrees as possible? Of course I haven’t even explored preload yet at this point only initial guidelines here theoretically I’d need my coilover s and installed height to go longer here to achieve that I can figure out that math easy when I pull the coilover to re adjust ride height for best bar degree. Also I’m on my lowest hole in front so would u guys rather throw one hole up in front to get a better degree or just go longer in coilover? How to I arrive at a place where I’d realize the top hole is better for my setup ? Heads spinning lol love the thought game 🤓🤔🤔 I’m under the impression I’m more worried about separation than rebound although they both important and I’m not trying to stab the front end up either so what’s the formula lolol

 

[Samson68]

Whomever welded the brackets on should never weld anything again. I would triple check everything the previous owner touched.

On top of the bad welds they welded it to the cast iron center section. Probably broke off a couple times and they just stuck it back on.

Yes I’m fully aware of that situation my buddy does cage building for bmw 24 hr races and starting next year we will be re doing all welds one or two at a time till it’s done the right way I have some issues in my cage as well that need attention

 

[bracketchev1221]

The bar angle sounds fine to me. The fact that the driver side is up a little bit shows a little preload for the driver. My bars were a few degrees down in my car.

 

[Samson68]

Ok that’s good to hear then bracket I’ll take the advice and sort this weight deal out and go from there get these things working right 😝 get some movement outta there

 

[mrpaticular]

JMO. Having a 69', I would raise the front mount of the ladder bars. Get double adjustable coilovers. There are lots of single adjustables used that went to doubles. Grind those welds down while checking for damage to the axle tubes. Get a smaller tire.

 

[mrpaticular]

Is that an aluminum driveshaft?
Give us some info on the engine and trans.
What is the intended usage?

 

[Samson68]

JMO. Having a 69', I would raise the front mount of the ladder bars. Get double adjustable coilovers. There are lots of single adjustables used that went to doubles. Grind those welds down while checking for damage to the axle tubes. Get a smaller tire.

Ok I do think these tires are a bit over kill lol my rims are so freaking wide tho I wonder what I can get to fit on them I’m not trying to buy new rims w it as well. Yes it’s an alum driveline and to be honest bro I was in the market for another dodge diesel I sold my 98 last year and I was flipping through cl and this thing slaps me in the face had to go look at it lol at that point really hadn’t done my homework on a modified chassis like this I’ve been wrenching 24 yrs and I haven’t seen it all but I’ve seen enough to get myself into trouble price was reasonable and everything I mean everything was wrong mis adjusted wiring was bad . example had turn signal circuit at column used to wire the one tooth off hei dizzy I said hey what happens if I use the turn signal he says oh it dies 😂

 

[Samson68]

Is that an aluminum driveshaft?
Give us some info on the engine and trans.
What is the intended usage?

Sorry bout the long story anyway I’m about 100 hrs and 5 k over the price I paid to smooth this car out I want a fast street car i realize ladders are tough on the street but I might wanna take it to a track and see what it does. It’s morphing as I go and it’s really only a weekend toy that I’ll take to shows itl never see freeway use and I usually only drive it within a half hour of my house and that was day after cam break in

 

[Samson68]

Is that an aluminum driveshaft?
Give us some info on the engine and trans.
What is the intended usage?

From rear to front it’s a Dana 60 4.10 open carrier 60s obviously been shortened not sure axles 4 piston wilwood s out back back halved and obviously tubbed aluminum driveline into a manual reverse valve body th 350 that doesn’t start moving till 2k doesn’t mean it’s a 2k stall tho 2 inch primary hooker full length headers 18 inch extenders into super 40s and donkey dumps no h or x it’s got a solid motor mount .030 over gen 4 454 w 063 heads and n xe 274 Comp w roller rockers msd ready to run w a 6 al belt drive and 105 amp single wire alt fuel system is a 10 gal fuel cell to a Mallory 140 electric pump and Mallory regulator non bypass system to a 770 street avenger 4160 vac secondary. It’s got a 12 point cage and line lock