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Ok, I'm stuck again. I'm trying to get the hoses routed. Because the receiver dryer fittings are both smaller size I would have thought the smaller condenser hose would go to the dryer. I need to know which hose goes where coming out of the condenser. I'm thinking a previous owner may have replaced the dryer but didn't use the proper size dryer fittings...
Here is a pick of my 68. I ran into this same type of thing because the parts catalogs show a larger and smaller inlet for 68 but I think that is wrong and unfortunately I can't go back far enough in my orders to check what I bought. I believe I used a 66 or 67 dryer but hate to mislead you. I know I bought a #6 and a #7 fitting at one time but I just can't remember what I ended up with. I went back and forth a couple times and I have left over fittings. I can only tell you my 11/16 wrench fit on the fitting going from the dryer to the expansion valve. It looks like the fitting (90 degree barbed) and hose is the same in and out and is the same size going from the dryer to the condenser but I could not get into that area with a wrench to double check but I believe it is the same threaded fitting size however I can't guarantee the barb size is the same hose size. Should be but! Sorry

Chevelle AC dryer.jpg
68 Dryer.jpg
 

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Looks good but what did you do with the dryer. What size fittings?. BTW it looks like you have the master cylinder for 4 piston front disc brakes, do you?
Can I assume this was my post that I put up a year ago that you referred to:
CORRECTED. After ordering half the wrong stuff here is how I ended up fixing this (hopefully). In 68 through 73 GM changed the AC dryers to have different size in and outs for the fitting on the dryer so they were not installed backwards. Problem is and after talking to Old Air Products GM custom made the larger fitting on the input side and I assumed knowing it wasn't a #6 nut that it was a #8. Wrong!! It's a #7 and no one makes a #7 nut 90 degree fitting with a #8 hose so I had to buy a new 1967 Chevelle Dryer that uses #6 nut on the input and output and I ordered an additional custom #6 nut with #8 barbed hose so I can finish this lovely project. Yes I am being sarcastic! Hopefully this will save someone else from a big headache in the future...
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Yeah, that’s the post. You helped me at every step of this project so Thank you! Your pictures were helpful as well.

The fittings I had that came off the car didn’t fit the first dryer I bought but did fit the second one. I got lucky I guess. Your old post shed a lot of light on things!

Yes, my car came with 4 piston disc brakes. I have a brand new power booster and master cylinder in the trunk. Those will go on soon.
 

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Yeah, that’s the post. You helped me at every step of this project so Thank you! Your pictures were helpful as well.

The fittings I had that came off the car didn’t fit the first dryer I bought but did fit the second one. I got lucky I guess. Your old post shed a lot of light on things!

Yes, my car came with 4 piston disc brakes. I have a brand new power booster and master cylinder in the trunk. Those will go on soon.
Awesome brakes I have them as well and they feel as good as any that I have ever owned. Maybe the pads have something to do with them but I am very happy with how they feel and how they stop.
 

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Mine aren't awesome. They'd probably work better with a rebuild and more vacuum. :)
When I had a leak at the T fitting on the manifold mine felt weak but after I fixed the line they came on pretty powerful. The vacuum can does have a check valve to maintain vacuum so it doesn't drop when you hit the gas. You might want to check that. Remember I have the metal Can and you have the Ball. I believe my pads are just organic (Centric) and nothing special but the clamping power of the 4 piston is very evident. There is absolutely no comparison between my 68 Chevelle and my wife's single piston on her 71 Camaro SS. Both have new rotors and pads. BTW my L79 runs around 15 pound of vacuum at idle. What is your vacuum at idle?
UPDATE they are Metallic : Amazon.com: Centric 102.00030 CTek Metallic Brake Pads: Automotive
4 piston caliper 2.JPG
 

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When I had a leak at the T fitting on the manifold mine felt weak but after I fixed the line they came on pretty powerful. The vacuum can does have a check valve to maintain vacuum so it doesn't drop when you hit the gas. You might want to check that. Remember I have the metal Can and you have the Ball. I believe my pads are just organic (Centric) and nothing special but the clamping power of the 4 piston is very evident. There is absolutely no comparison between my 68 Chevelle and my wife's single piston on her 71 Camaro SS. Both have new rotors and pads. BTW my L79 runs around 15 pound of vacuum at idle. What is your vacuum at idle?
UPDATE they are Metallic : Amazon.com: Centric 102.00030 CTek Metallic Brake Pads: Automotive
View attachment 702013
I need to have my brain checked. The AC CAN if not leaking and has nothing to do with the power brakes except my can vacuum line was leaking at the T fitting where the power brake booster is connected. Obviously a leak there would affect both but the rest of my comment about a check valve is bullshit. When I am wrong I say I'm wrong (Dirty Dancing)
 

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I have just enough vacuum for some assistance. It's about 9 at idle. I've never tore into my brakes so I don't have high expectations but I'll be diving in soon. :)
Until my engine broke in I was running low 13 psig and they felt like crap. Now I am at 15-16 depending if the AC is on or not and they feel great. If you have 9 you are gonna need something to create and store vacuum for power brakes. Maybe someone can jump in. There are many post on this subject. I wouldn't remove original stuff until the vacuum is improved.
 
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