[Road Roamer]

The numbers on the vacuum ball are:
10000669
Z-2835

 

[Billdini]

Got it!

So I grabbed the ball, and took it out to see if the mounting pad and holes would align with the original case. The factory case has 2 holes where you said the canister (or ball) should mount. It's a perfect match! One of those factory holes looks abused and cracked which might explain why the ball was relocated.

The new case was purchased from opgi and they advertise it as a 68-72. The reality is, the case is really a repop of a 71-72 but because the basic shape is a match as it relates to the firewall, opgi markets for 68 through 72. Does this sound right to you guys? The new case only has 1 hole in the same location that the vacuum canister should go.


View attachment 699837

Buying reproductions is a double sided sword. First we are very lucky we have the parts available especially if the part is rare.However if the part can be used for multi-years with minor modifications it is very common for vendors to say 68-72 even though it was made for a 70 or another year. You will find there are a lot more parts for 70 then 68. As far as drilling another hole sure why not but don't drill to deep if anything is inside the case like a evaporator. I wouldn't worry about having a ball or can either but it should be located correctly. As far as the difference with the cooling tube hopefully you bought the one I posted on Ebay which will work fine and will not even be visible once the fender is on.

 

[Road Roamer]

I did not buy the ebay tube because the end of it had a small box. The box didn't look compatible with my case. Maybe it was and I'm just an idiot. Wouldn't be the first time. Lol I bought a tube made to go into the side of a blower motor and an elbow that I'm "hoping" will attach to the case. I'm expecting to have to get creative a little but we'll see. Like you said it's out of site so I'm not too concerned.

I know you won't like this but I'm leaving the ball where it was. The holes are already there and it's not that big of a deal to me. The car is a 138 code 325 hp automatic car with a 540. I never had the original engine. If I had a numbers matching car I'd be shooting for dead nuts original on every nut and bolt. Unfortunately that's not what I'm working with, but I certainly appreciate your direction.

 

[Billdini]

It doesn't matter what I like it is what you want! Enjoy YOUR car.....


Bill

 

[swampy 6x6]

Hi
1/ Always run fan motor cooling
2/ always run a vacuum can/ball with an a/c car
3/ always run a vacuum line check valve installed at source ie manifold

Above vacuum parts can be sourced from any GM car that uses the system of control . Even other brands of vehicle do have these parts also.

 

[DUTCH MAX HEADWORK]

The numbers on the vacuum ball are:
10000669
Z-2835

Not that it matters, but...
I don't think it's original as the part number comes back to the early to mid 80's and I don't see it listed earlier. I don't see any earlier revisions so have to look elsewhere for an original part number.

 

[Road Roamer]

Thanks for checking into it!

 

[Road Roamer]

My blower motor has 2 wire terminals. All the replacement blowers motors (that I've found) are single terminal. Why does mine have an extra one and do I need it?

 

[LeoP]

All automotive 12 volt systems need a powered wire and a ground, the ones you mention with only one wire, have a ground, usually the terminal is held by one of the screws that hold the motor flange in place, Check that out!!

 

[Road Roamer]

I bought an elbow and a tube separately merged them together. I think it’ll work.

 

[Road Roamer]

I'm going to finish this up as soon as my new compressor arrives. My plan is to take the car down to a pro to have the system charged. I know there's oil that goes in the system somewhere but I don't where. Does it go in the compressor? Does the compressor need oil in it if I have the belt spinning it? Just need to drive to the shop to have it charged and don't want to screw anything up.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Billdini]

I'm going to finish this up as soon as my new compressor arrives. My plan is to take the car down to a pro to have the system charged. I know there's oil that goes in the system somewhere but I don't where. Does it go in the compressor? Does the compressor need oil in it if I have the belt spinning it? Just need to drive to the shop to have it charged and don't want to screw anything up.

Thanks in advance!

The compresssor will usually come full but check. The stock A6 compressor holds about 6 ounces of oil. You will see a “belly” and a drain/plug in that area of the compressor. Fill it til it starts leaking back out and screw the drain nut back in. You will need to add some oil which btw must be for the type of refrigerant being used R12 and R134 use different oil. The entire empty system will hold 11 ounces total. Add a little in the condenser , evaporator, dryer and hoses. And as Leo said there should be a spayed connector attached by one of the screws that holds the blower motor in. That is the ground connection. You may have to buy one.

 

[Road Roamer]

Ok cool! How do I check if the compressor has oil? Is there a site plug? Maybe the paperwork that comes with it will divulge that...? Is the compressor safe to spin for 10 miles without oil?

 

[B52bombardier1]

Don't spin the compressor with the compressor clutch engaged if you are uncertain about its oil charge. Electrically disconnect it if you are going to run the engine.

Rick

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Billdini]

Ok cool! How do I check if the compressor has oil? Is there a site plug? Maybe the paperwork that comes with it will divulge that...? Is the compressor safe to spin for 10 miles without oil?

You will see a threaded plug (hex head) in the belly of the compressor. The compressor will not spin if you don't turn the AC system on. To be safe don't plug in the electrical connector to the compressor. The clutch assembly that the belt rides on will spin but that is external and does not use oil nor does it spin the compressor internally until engaged. I suspect you will have a sticker stating that it is full of oil for R134 but don't guess. Some synthetic oils can be used in both. If you go R134 the POA valve must be adjusted for that refrigerant. Same if you go R12.. Any competent AC place will know this (if they have old school knowledge) but make sure they adjust it for what you use. A POA valve adjusted for R12 but uses R134 will cool poorly. New parallel condensers work much better then old style too with R134. And just as you thought you knew everything R1234 is the newest refrigerant and I have no knowledge using that stuff but it is going to replace R134 soon. My systems use R12 but they may not be able to use that legally.

 

[Billdini]

Don't forget to buy and use this heater hose retainer. It bolts to the compressor bracket and holds the heater hoses to the bracket and out of the way of the AC belt. Trust me you will not make the 10 mile drive without it in place as it will cut through the heater hoses. My earlier pics show this in place. Kinda tough to see but its there.

1967 - 1968 Camaro Air Conditioning Heater Hose Retaining Brace Loop Strap to Compressor Bracket, Small Block 3853968

Nice correct A/C heater hose retainer Brace for 67 - 68 Camaro small block models. 1967 - 1968 Camaro SB Air Conditioning heater hose strap loop. Correct reproduction of the original GM part. The Assembly Manual GM part # 3853968 in UPC C60 D4.

www.camarocentral.com

 

[Road Roamer]

Don't forget to buy and use this heater hose retainer. It bolts to the compressor bracket and holds the heater hoses to the bracket and out of the way of the AC belt. Trust me you will not make the 10 mile drive without it in place as it will cut through the heater hoses. My earlier pics show this in place. Kinda tough to see but its there.

1967 - 1968 Camaro Air Conditioning Heater Hose Retaining Brace Loop Strap to Compressor Bracket, Small Block 3853968

Nice correct A/C heater hose retainer Brace for 67 - 68 Camaro small block models. 1967 - 1968 Camaro SB Air Conditioning heater hose strap loop. Correct reproduction of the original GM part. The Assembly Manual GM part # 3853968 in UPC C60 D4.

www.camarocentral.com

I think you're talking about the lower hose and this is what the car currently has. I'm not sure where that bracket mounts. This is an old pic before I started making things nice.

 

[Billdini]

Your upper hose is run over the compressor. Mine runs under which is also correct for 68 but if you do leave it like that your lower hose has a clamp holding it against the AC bracket. If you go back to the first page you will see how mine is run and you will see one of the bolts that holds the bracket is the same one you are using to hold the single lower hose. If that is how you are going to run it then you are in no danger of cutting through a hose. You are also missing the front and rear compressor brackets to support the compressor. BTW these are not correct for my car either. These are for an automatic. I have the one that is used with the A.I.R pump bracket in the basement that I took off for a manual tranny that I will use if I install the AIR pump down the road. Your bracket uses the head mounting holes so it must be from a later year GM, not Chevelle, they had a driver side mount after 68 to 72. However if it works it works, you will likely not care with the hood closed enjoying your AC system on a hot and humid day.

 

[Billdini]

I just realized you are a big block after watching your video so many of my pics and comments do not apply! However the retainer is the same for a big block I just have no idea on your routing and brackets. My bad for making an assumption

 

[Road Roamer]

I just realized you are a big block after watching your video so many of my pics and comments do not apply! However the retainer is the same for a big block I just have no idea on your routing and brackets. My bad for making an assumption

No matter. I'm just putting it all back the way it was just fresh and painted. You've helped me immensely and it's greatly appreciated!