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Try either or both of the following: Vintage Air or Classic Auto Air.

I think Vintage can rebuild the original parts or supply them as reproduction new parts.

Rick

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My car is a Factory A/C car and I would like to keep it that way. I'm looking to replace the main system components and was hoping for supplier suggestions. Thanks guys!
I had good luck with Classic Auto Air.

Greg
 

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HI
ALL of a airconditioner is serviceable .
Evaporators can leak always a good idea for a spare. Most are NOS with some having the fittings cut off.
If keeping leak test and evap flush with white spirit and flush with nitrogen gas
Hoses ---replace suction , discharge
replace all system orings
condensor
refurbish same as evap core
compressor prefer replace or refurb old unit same as evap core
reoil used compressor
change receiver drier
change TX valve or orifice tube

leak check heater core then flush
inspect heater tap
inspect all engine vacuum operated parts
 

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1968 el Camino SS 396 L34, TH400, 3.55 posi, Factory A/C, P/S, P/B, Remote Driver Mirror,
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I went with Classic Auto Air for my '68 factory air el Camino. I bought their components to convert it to R134 refrigerant. I did have them restore my original poa valve and recalibrate it, they did an amazing job! Their system has been working perfectly for over 10 years now. In hindsight, I should have had them restore all of my original a/c components and stuck with a R12 refrigerant system. I just wasn't sure if I could still find a shop to charge the system with the R12. I may not have researched that, I don't recall now.

Steve
 

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I did mine myself. Compressor was ok so I just changed the seals throughout the system. I bought a refurb POA from ebay. Bought a new condenser and evaporator. Dryer and hoses and correct clamps from ebay. I am using R12a because its cheap and works great but some say it can be dangerous. Germany and Canada use it in there cars but they are designed for it. If you need my exact suppliers I can dig it up. Important make sure you have that little retainer that holds the heater hoses against the compressor or else!
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I looked at the Classic auto website. Their kit is electronic and modernized. I'm looking for stock replacement parts.
Do you have missing parts?
Are you wanting to keep using the R-12 refrigerant or change it to a replacement refrigerant?
You can probably flush the system, pressure test, evacuate and recharge.
I still use the original R-12 system on my 69
 

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HI
R134a gas will find far smaller gaps for leaks .R134a has far far smaller molecules compared to R12 IE this is why the refrigerant hoses have an internal liner to prevent leaks .What does this mean.??? On an original system with worm screw clamps and hose barbs . If u use R134a hose on the barbs u cause damage to hose liner and create slow leaks .
R12 has its own hose and fittings
R134a has its own hose and fittings

Converting fittings ,,cut remove barb and weld on 'o' ring fitting. This is commonly done .
suctionline evap end
compressor suction and discharge
condensor In Out lines
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did mine myself. Compressor was ok so I just changed the seals throughout the system. I bought a refurb POA from ebay. Bought a new condenser and evaporator. Dryer and hoses and correct clamps from ebay. I am using R12a because its cheap and works great but some say it can be dangerous. Germany and Canada use it in there cars but they are designed for it. If you need my exact suppliers I can dig it up. Important make sure you have that little retainer that holds the heater hoses against the compressor or else!
View attachment 695929 View attachment 695930 View attachment 695931

Wow, that looks awesome! Yes, I would love to know who your suppliers were. I would love for mine to both look this nice and function correctly. I'm using R12.
 

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Wow, that looks awesome! Yes, I would love to know who your suppliers were. I would love for mine to both look this nice and function correctly. I'm using R12.
I got the dryer from Old Air Products, # 21-4215A, AC wiring harness #11880 from M&H Wiring, heater seal kit from Jegs #854-5089, I had to buy two compressor brackets because I removed my A.I.R pump from OPGI Sku:C540591, Sku C8118051, Chevrolet Parts Source AC Blower relay 380657862111, Quanta Products cloth covered fan belts, PS 29-B-563, AC for SBC 29-B-565, Alternator SBC 29-B-560, Cold Hose Barrier AC hose #8 Sku BH8, #10 Sku BH10, #12 Sku BH12, 9, 8 and 5 feet, Clamps and barb fittings from Johnjoysyl on Ebay, rebuilt POA valve on ebay Pacecarjeff, Evaporator 351953676588 The Parts Place, Condenser 263416569972 kit Ebay ccsautoparts
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got the dryer from Old Air Products, # 21-4215A, AC wiring harness #11880 from M&H Wiring, heater seal kit from Jegs #854-5089, I had to buy two compressor brackets because I removed my A.I.R pump from OPGI Sku:C540591, Sku C8118051, Chevrolet Parts Source AC Blower relay 380657862111, Quanta Products cloth covered fan belts, PS 29-B-563, AC for SBC 29-B-565, Alternator SBC 29-B-560, Cold Hose Barrier AC hose #8 Sku BH8, #10 Sku BH10, #12 Sku BH12, 9, 8 and 5 feet, Clamps and barb fittings from Johnjoysyl on Ebay, rebuilt POA valve on ebay Pacecarjeff, Evaporator 351953676588 The Parts Place, Condenser 263416569972 kit Ebay ccsautoparts
Wow, that was quick! I super appreciate it. I'm ordering get most of these things. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've been working at this. I ordered a ton of new parts and about half have arrived. Trying to get parts in a timely manner right now is hit and miss. Anyway, my case had a couple of cracks in it so I ordered a new one from OPGI. I painted it black because I didn't like the grey and installed it keeping the original Harrison evaporator. It was dirty but looked fine. My question is: Why is the case different than the original? The new one has a hole right next to the fan motor which I believe is for cooling the fan motor somehow. The original had a similar size hole with a hose coming out of it but way to the right. Also the original had this (pictured) and there's no provision for it on the box. What is it and do I need to drill the new case and put this in the same area as the original? Thanks

in advance!

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699586
 

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I can't tell you why OPGI is different. 68 has two components that go into the housing. The fan blower resistor pack and the low temperature shut off switch sending unit. That will shut off the compressor if the temps get lower than 32. Then you have the fan relay that just screws in. The motor must have a air tube connection (big round one) to the housing or it will overheat. You are probably going to have to fabricate a hose to fit the new housing. Go back to my pics previously posted showing the motor and the air tube. I will see if I can find better pics and will repost if I do.
 

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BTW, there is a clamp that mounts onto the lower front of the compressor that keeps the heater hoses from rubbing. If you look at my second pic in my initial pictures you will see where the hoses run across the compressor and you will see the clamp holding them against the lower housing. If you don't have one buy one or you will not make it a mile. Ask me how I know. :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you Billdini! I think you’ve answered all of my questions! I do need to drill and install the low temp switch and rig up something to keep the blower motor from over heating. Do you know what the hole right next to the blower motor is for? Thanks again!
 

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Thank you Billdini! I think you’ve answered all of my questions! I do need to drill and install the low temp switch and rig up something to keep the blower motor from over heating. Do you know what the hole right next to the blower motor is for? Thanks again!
Not sure what hole you are talking about. The only thing that we haven't mentioned is the small wire retainer with screw the attaches to the base for the purple blower wire that connects to the motor. Are you talking about the new housing. Remember 68 is a one year and that housing is probably for a later year. Many part companies say something is correct for 68-72 when it is really 69-72. 69-72 the compressor moved to the drivers side and I imaging the plumbing changed on the housing. Personally I would have just fixed your original. A little mat with resin inside and out and it would have been just like new especially since you painted it anyway.
 

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This hole. My old case doesn’t have this.
My old case is cracked in 2 separate places and it looks terrible so I went with new. The new piece is pretty nice actually. View attachment 699660
View attachment 699661
That definitely a later year thing. I would send that pic to Dean since he has a 69 SS with AC and maybe he knows. You are going to have to use it for something or plug it. I do have a 69 IAM that I will check
 
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