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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, i just bought this 68 Chevelle drag car and i'm needing LOTS of direction/advice since i've never owned anything but a high 11sec mostly bolt-on car. And its been years. No back halved/tubbed, transbrake, etc. Got this car for my son and i to build and take to the track to have some fun. Will be good for us to learn to tune/setup/etc. There is a lot i don't know about the car but i'm working on finding out. Here is what i have and know:
68 Chevelle SS 396(ran the #'s), steel body
Its been back halved and tubbed and has a cage
Ladder bar suspension with coil overs in rear.
12 bolt rear with Strange axles and some type of spool. 4:56 gears
Front suspension looks stk with disc brakes. Not sure what front shocks, though i don't think they are anything special
Fuel system is run and is supposed to support over 1000hp. Not sure on what pump it has yet. Regulator up front has dual outlets.
Has motor plates for BBC in stk location.
Got what is supposed to be a built TH400 with trans brake.(supposed to handle well over 1000hp)
4000 stall. Don't know the brand at the moment.
New set of Ceramic coated Hooker Super Comp headers. 2 1/8" primary, 3 1/2" collectors
B&M Pro Stick auto shifter(new, have to install)
32 x 14.0 x 15" slicks out back, skinnies up front
I will update this post as i get more info(will be picking the car up in the next few weeks). If anyone needs any specific info, let me know and i'll see about getting it.

Here is what i currently have as far as motor parts:
2 bolt 454 bored .060 over. Short block only has a few hundred miles on it, but has cast flat top pistons, stk rods/crank.
I have a set of bone stk 781 oval ports. Stk valves and all. Would need work before i bolted on
I have a set of 088 rectangle port heads. Ports have been smoothed but does not look to have any bowl work. Intake ports gasket matched to Felpro 1274. Not sure on the springs it has but was on a 540 with Crower .612/.636 lift, 303/311 duration hyd roller cam.
MSD 6al-2 ignition with Blaster 2 coil
MSD 85551 Distributer
No cam, intake, carb as of yet.

Here is what i was thinking as far as the motor build:
I want a reliable motor we can run at the track over and over. I want it to run on pump gas(though E85 might be an option)and would like to make around 600hp at the crank. Would like to spray it some when we get everything ironed out and 600hp gets boring.
Use the 2 bolt .060" over block i have and drop in a 496 balanced rotating assembly with forged pistons. Probably Scat crank and I beam rods. Stud the mains
Thinking of CR of around 9.5:1
From the searching i've done so far, i think the 088 heads can support 600 crank hp. Would not be opposed to some bowl work to help reach that goal unless some of you think it would not be needed?
Not sure on the cam. Maybe good single plane intake or even a dual quad tunnel ram.


I'm hoping to to use as much of the parts i have on hand, though i would be willing to change something if what i have was def not the way to go.

I need suggestions, advice, etc on most every aspect of this build. I've never messed with ladder bars, trans brakes, etc but willing to learn/adjust/tune.

I'm not building this for any type of class. Just to have some fun TNT. Just don't wanna be tearing parts up and rebuilding often. I want it to stay together.
Attached are a few pics of the car
 

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I'd look to see when the last chassis certification was done on the car. The silvery sticker will be located on the passenger side of the roll cage, generally on the main hoop. That will give you an idea of how long it's been since that car has been raced. It's needed on cars that run 9.99 or 135+. It would be a good idea to get a copy of an NHRA or IHRA rule book, depending on which organization sanctions your local track.

I looks like a nice car. I hope you and your son enjoy building it together.

Steve R
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Steve, i'll take a looksee at it next weekend. I don't know how long its been since the car was run. I was told it has been 4's in the 1/8th. It does have wheelie bar mounts out back and a parachute mount as well. Didn't get the wheelie bars with the car. I don''t plan to use bars anyway though.
I def will get a copy of the rule books so i can stay legal.
 

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If you want reliability and don't want to wrench on it constantly build a large displacement BB and don't twist it up... it will last for years. No-box class racing is likely where you will compete. Don't dwell on et so much...it's all bracket racing. A 6.00 to 6.50 1/8th-mile car will put you at the top of the heap nearly everywhere you go in no-box...and no cage certification needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you want reliability and don't want to wrench on it constantly build a large displacement BB and don't twist it up... it will last for years. No-box class racing is likely where you will compete. Don't dwell on et so much...it's all bracket racing. A 6.00 to 6.50 1/8th-mile car will put you at the top of the heap nearly everywhere you go in no-box...and no cage certification needed.
I was thinking the same thing. My first thoughts was to keep rpms to 6500 and below, though from numerous searches there are many that spin their 2-bolt BBC's to 7K for years with no issues. I was thinking a balanced assembly and the lighter forged pistons would help. Was thinking to run a solid flat tappet or solid roller to save a little weight on the valve train vs hydraulic lifters. I don't mind adjusting valves
What kinda hp does it take to run 6.0-6.5's in a 3500ish lb car? Not sure what this one weighs, but i would not think it would weigh as much as a stocker.
 

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You did great on this car Mark, I've been scouring the net for a find like this. I followed your initial post all the way through and like you, have the same thing in mind. I have a 496, 781 head w/ bigger valves and port work that could just about drop in. Just gotta find the car and get it here. Great find!:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You did great on this car Mark, I've been scouring the net for a find like this. I followed your initial post all the way through and like you, have the same thing in mind. I have a 496, 781 head w/ bigger valves and port work that could just about drop in. Just gotta find the car and get it here. Great find!:thumbsup:
Thanks buddy. Been looking for quite some time, and somehow i ran across two 68's within a few months. This one was 60mi from me. Just by chance i got in touch with a friend that i have not spoken with in the past 8 years. I had no idea he had the car. While catching up, he mentioned he had it for sale. I said "oh, yeah...what u want for it?" expecting something in the $7500-10,000 range. When he told me what he would take, I made the trip to see him that day!
 

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You did great on this car Mark, I've been scouring the net for a find like this. I followed your initial post all the way through and like you, have the same thing in mind. I have a 496, 781 head w/ bigger valves and port work that could just about drop in. Just gotta find the car and get it here. Great find!:thumbsup:
Have you asked around your local track? There are often some good cars for sale floating around that aren't advertised. Don't rule out turn key cars, you will quickly be able to do some shake down runs to ensure everything is in working order then sell the engine that came in the car to recoupe some of the cost. If you want to run 9's think about getting a car that either has a current chassis cert or recently expired cert. Many impressive looking cars won't pass certification inspection so they are worthless unless you are only interested in running 10.0 or slower. Even if you plan on only doing time hits and have no interest in racing, once you go 9's you should expect any track will want to see a chassis cert and a competition license.

Good luck with your search.

Steve R
 
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