68 big block radiator
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If it is factory I am sure there are numbers to cross reference. However no factory radiator that came with a manual transmission would have the cooler line connections for an automatic. Many aftermarket radiators are sold as one for both. They work but they are not visually correct.
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Three ROW (pay attention Dean 
) was standard on all BB's or SBC's with AC but I m not sure with the L78. Optional on all engines. It should have a 4 bolt top plate too which fits the HD cooling for SS models and the HD radiator support. I believe the HD radiator was 28"'s between tanks and 20" for non. There are many members that know a ton about radiators and hopefully they will pipe in, If you look at my profile Showcase pictures of my car you will see HD cooling on my 1868 L79. It has HD cooling because it has AC and not because of the engine.
) was standard on all BB's or SBC's with AC but I m not sure with the L78. Optional on all engines. It should have a 4 bolt top plate too which fits the HD cooling for SS models and the HD radiator support. I believe the HD radiator was 28"'s between tanks and 20" for non. There are many members that know a ton about radiators and hopefully they will pipe in, If you look at my profile Showcase pictures of my car you will see HD cooling on my 1868 L79. It has HD cooling because it has AC and not because of the engine.
Physically it is a good size, fits where it should and has the 4 bolt top plate. I think it must be a 2 row auto rad, difficult to see exactly but there is certainly room between the top a bottom tank for one maybe two more rows, so It needs to changed out as it gets hot 200 - 210f + sitting it traffic. ..............Thanks ......
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Check your fan clutch and what fan do you have. My factory 5 blade works well. The clutch should have resistance even when cold, it should not free spin. If you have a flex fan make it gone. Did you say that you have a top and bottom tank? Thats a 67 design. You are a 68 right?
Yeah sorry its not top n bottom its side to side and has a clutch fan. The car looked fairly original when I got it and as far as I was told only the engine had been changed . Trouble is when you see a car and want it all the things you know you should be asking and thinking goes out of the window, as the saying goes ''a fool and his money'' Having said all that i love it to bits so whatever it takes and actually I don't want to admit just how much I've ploughed into it, I think that means I'm in denial.
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I put a 4 row Champion in my 69 and had to modify the core support on the bottom left side to clear the tank no problem on the right side and had to get a different hold down plate on top. My car originally had a 3 row
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I would flush it and paint it. Keep the spray light on the rows to avoid a paint build up and use it if originality isn't required. As mentioned before I would check the fan, shroud, thermostat (180 degree F) and especially the fan clutch and make sure it is working. They also have a HD version of the clutch that will engage earlier however will make more noise. I am basing this on your engine being a lightly modified 396. if you are pushing more power then a performance radiator might be warranted. I am using a Cold Case HD with two 1.25" rows and works fine with my 327/325 with the AC on. Dewitts makes one that looks almost stock with their special paint option that doesn't affect cooling efficiency if you need extra cooling but it's costly.
Just had a look at the Cold Case radiators and think I will go that ally rad path., the rad I have is not up to it so if I change to an ally 2 row it won't matter. Since owning the car I have found quite a few non original parts and it will be more cost effective than buying an original style 4 row. Probably go electric fan cooling too.
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