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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After getting a new dash harness to hook up my guages, I've encountered another gremlin. My temp guage doesn't seem to work, and it was just replaced, so I know its not the guage. The wire on the motor just plugs into the firewall as part of the engine harness right? I didn't really notice any other connections there or in the dash harness. What didn't I do right?

*update on the radio problem. It suddenly came on sunday with no warning. Worked ever since. Weird eh?

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my 67 droptop

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Dad's 67 droptop
 

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I suppose you could have a bad sending unit. You can check that your gauge and wiring are ok. Turn the ignition on, and unplug the green wire going to the sending unit. With the wire unplugged the gauge should read full cold, if you ground the wire, it should read full hot. If your gauge gets these readings, I would buy another sending unit, just make sure you get the one for a manual gauge. The one for an idiot light is different.

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Ken<UL TYPE=SQUARE><LI>Aces # 125<LI>Team Chevelle # 586[/list]My 67 and other projects
New toy, 2002 Firehawk M6 1LE
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here we go again. With the key on, and the connector grounded to the engine, it stays dead at cold.

If I plug the white wire for the doors into the courtesy harness, the temp guage goes to full hot. When I shut the door, it goes to dead cold. Grounding the temp sending unit wire to the block again has no effect.

???

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my 67 droptop

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big block
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Dad's 67 droptop
 

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Maybe I see it. If I remember right you did some harness swapping or rewiring under the dash. Look to see if there are 2 green wires connected to the ignition switch. They would be on the same terminal. If there is, remove them from the ignition switch and solder them together. The connection, to the ignition switch is for an idiot light car, not a gage car.
 

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You're correct. Actually I don't think that there is any difference between the harnesses in that area. However, part of the problem doing the troubleshooting tests Ken is suggesting is that (I believe) the green sender line is being held to ground in the ON position. Breaking that connection will allow you to continue.
 

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I'm only guessing that the temp sender line may be grounded. It is not supposed to be in the ON position. It supposed to ground just past the ON position to test the idiot light. My suggestion was to eliminate that possibility and then to retry Ken's tests. If you don't want to cut anything, you will need to remove both the sender and the gage connectors and verify the ignition switch is not grounding the green temp wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm not sure I understand how to run the test with the sending unit and the guage unhooked. Would I have the key on and put my voltmeter on either of those two connections? What reading would I expect?

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my 67 droptop

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Dad's 67 droptop
 

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See if the line is shorted to ground. With both sides disconnected there should be no continuity between that wire and the frame. I'm guessing that maybe it's shorted through the ignition switch. (just a guess)
Measure between that wire and the chassis (frame) with a meter. There should be no continuity.
 

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Hmm, this is strange. John may be right, the ignition switch should not be grounding the green wire. If you have a green double wire in the ignition switch connector, you should unplug it from the connector, and tape over the terminal. The circuit for a 67 temp gauge does not go through the ignition switch. The pink wire on the gauge is an ignition on power feed. The green wire on the gauge runs straight to the firewall bulkhead, from the bulkhead connector it runs to the sending unit. It is a new harness, but it could have the green wire mis-plugged in the bulkhead, or in the bulkhead connector. Try checking that you have continuity between the green wire at the gauge, and the green wire at the sending unit. Is there anything else that isn't working, it may be related if there is a wire or 2 mis-plugged.
* edit *
Do your courtesy lights work? If you have the white wire plugged up, the door open, and the ignition switch on, the gauge reads full hot, right? What happens if you unplug the courtesy harness orange wire from the fuseblock?

[This message has been edited by KEN67RAT (edited 08-28-2002).]
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by KEN67RAT:
Hmm, this is strange. John may be right, the ignition switch should not be grounding the green wire. If you have a green double wire in the ignition switch connector, you should unplug it from the connector, and tape over the terminal.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

John also might be wrong again. You are giving out some good advice. I just had the thought that the sender wire was being held to ground. It shouldn't even on an idiot light car until you turn the key past the ON position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Boy, do I feel D, U, M, B, DUMB. I read the part about a pink and green wire and thought, that connector is pink and green, its a white and orange T connector. So I got a light and dug my hand up in there and lo and behold, found the green and pink T connector. Problem solved. Hope I didn't waste too much of your guy's valuable time on this one.


I did figure out something interesting. If I have the left side harness white wire for the door plugged into the courtesy harness and the right side taped off, then when I open the left door, only the left light comes on and when I open the right door, only the right light comes on. When both are either plugged into the courtesy harness or taped off, both side lights work together. Isn't that interesting?

THANKS KEN AND JOHN!!!!!!! *goes to bang head on wall*

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my 67 droptop

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big block
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Dad's 67 droptop
 

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You need 2 white wires connected at each door so the lights will come on either when a door is open or the light switch is turned left.

Rene
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by chadh5:
*goes to bang head on wall*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I've had days like that.
Glad you got it working.
 
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