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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I had a small leak in the rear window and finally got the moldings off. The tool would not work on the bottom pieces. I found out why. Previous owner did not reinstall the bottom clips - drilled three holes into the trunk, made up clips with long bolts and used nuts and ****. UNBELIEVABLE !!!!

The clips are all there, no rust anywhere (except on the 3 bolts of course).

I read Martin Sr's write up and I'm getting all the stuff I need to re-seal.

My question - I noticed on my window I can see the pinch weld through the window in some places. The caulk seems to be on both sides. Looks like they might have pressed the window in too hard and squeezed it out? Probably why the window leaked. How do you know how hard to push down during the re-install so you don't squeeze out the buytl tape? Or do you just set it in, slight pressure and that's it?

Second question - should I weld those 3 small holes or will some caulk hold up over time?

Sorry - third question - Martin Sr says to try out the moldings but without the window in, you don't have the spacing. Should I put in new clips and try the moldings before I take out the window????
 

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Mike, pls post a pic of the tool you used to remove molding. I have a spot on bottom window of my 67 and I want to assess if it is something I can repair or need to take to a professional. First, I have to get the proper tyool to remove the trim.... Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tool was from NPD Part C-T3 Page 132 $4.95

I bought this one because it has rubber pads that lay on the window when you are sliding it along. You don't need to use masking tape. And it goes both ways - away from you and towards you.

In the old days I used a tool and I cracked a window once twisting it the wrong way. This seems much safer.

Mike
 

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I made one of these out of a cheap drywall knife.
The steel is like spring steel and worked great.
Just grind the hook in one of the edges and you have it.
Instead of prying with the tool to pop the trim up, I made a tool
from 10 gauge steel 3/4 wide, bent 90 deg 1" from the end.
This slides under the trim and after you release the clip with the hook tool
pry the trim up with this. Worked really well. You could put some tape on the
bent radius if you are nervous about cracking or marking the window.
Better still, is a radiused bend so it never has a shapr corner on the glass.
 
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