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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having to loosen the DS header to remove the already tiny oil filter is getting old!

Id like to run an oil cooler in front of the radiator and use a remote filter
Any particular order to do this, cooler first then filter or does it matter?
If I had to choose it would be to keep the filter in its current spot and put a cooler in to help with heat mgmt.

Both would sure be nice. Any downsides? Do I need to mount the filter same height as it is now, will there be a drainback issue creating a situation where theres air in the line?
Want the cooling system to be the best it can be. About ready to put a mech. fan back on, rather not though
 

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My machine shop guy told me to stay away from the remote filter set ups. I had already bought one but never installed it. The filter was a pain in the ass with the headers but I was able to get it out just made a mess and had to fight with it a little bit. I did run across one on a Pontiac for 55 years later that I had to rebuild a motor because it wiped out the camshaft and I did away with the remote filter set up on it.
 

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Once you do that, you might really need a high volume pump to boot so..... mess with those nasty azz headers. On my BBC with 2" pipes I use one of those caps that fits on the end of the filter to remove it, so I can access it from directly below.

Keeping white headers white however, is a fool's game.
 

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My block is not setup for an oil filter so I have to run a remote one. I'm using Moroso #23764 with a K&N HP-3002 oil filter. If you go remote, add an oil accumulator to it. That way you can prelube the engine and you don't have to worry about drain back. When I first got this engine running I did not have the accumulator on it. When cold starting I would always crank it a bunch to get the oil circulating. Wasn't enough. My T&D shaft rockers had some damage from dry starts and the bearings had evidence of dry starts. That was after a little over a year. I now have 2-1/2 years on it with the accumulator and no issues.
 

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Oil filter first, then oil cooler.


use -10 AN line and fittings, not the rubber hose and hose clamps.

mount the remote oil filter vertical so it doesn't drain back. (same orientation as stock)


I have been running and oil cooler for years, I have never had an issue and have never needed an oil accumulator.
 

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Oil filter first, then oil cooler.


use -10 AN line and fittings, not the rubber hose and hose clamps.

mount the remote oil filter vertical so it doesn't drain back. (same orientation as stock)


I have been running and oil cooler for years, I have never had an issue and have never needed an oil accumulator.
Mine is installed the same way. Filter is vertical and the lines are -10 AN. I was very surprised that I had an oiling issue on start up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Neighbor gave me a nice (new) cooler, will use that.
Wondered about an accumulator. Maybe Ill wait on the filter sure would be nice though
sbc...with scattershield kicked out pan and tuned (ugh) headers I need to use a tiny filter and still loosed the header so it drops out. Never buy tuned headers for a st car not worth it.
Changing the starter will be interesting.

Are you saying use hard line instead of rubber? how bout goodridge, or braided?
 

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Not sure if you want to go down the new oil pan route but they make pans with the little cut out for oil filter and still have decent capacity (Milidon). I know what you mean on the small oil filter and header etc. One thing you need to be aware of an oil cooler is they can actually cool too good (depending on set up) in colder climates and the oil does not get up to operating temparature. On the C6 Z06 Corvettes they changed the oil coolers on the later years (from air to water cooled) because say on a 50 degree day the oil would struggle (like 30 minutes) to get to 150 degrees which is too cold.
 

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yea what calculated risk said

oil filter and then cooler. been running one like this for a while now as well. way more consistent oil pressure readings all around. i mounted my oil filter just off the frame so no drain back issues.

as good as accumulators are at there job, i don't use. If it works without it, just less things to go wrong.

i run -10AN fittings and -10AN line. used twist-lok style stuff with oetiker clamps just as a backup. The clamps aren't necessary. try and keep you lines short to minimize flow/pressure losses in the system if your not running a HV/HP pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I run a HV pump has good pressure. Hoping between installing the cooler and solving this excess pressure in the hoses problem (whatever is causing it) I can leave the fan setup alone. It doesnt get hot but is not cooling down like it should when Im moving. Ill take any edge I can get sure wont hurt anything.
 
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