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67 L99 4L80 Project

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I'm just starting on my project so I thought I'd post some info and pics.

This was my sister in law's driver for several years until she retired it about 10 years ago. The car has rust in all the usual places (i.e. rear quarters, trunk drops, wheel wells, back glass, a little in the trunk pan, etc). The trough in the panel under the filler panel behind the back glass was rusted completely though. The back glass has been leaking for years.

The victim.

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Sounds like the crank isn't straight to me. Remove all the caps and all the mainbearing shells from the block except for the first and last. Check runout on unsaddled main journals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Sounds like the crank isn't straight to me. Remove all the caps and all the mainbearing shells from the block except for the first and last. Check runout on unsaddled main journals.
Wouldn't a bent crank get tight at 2 spots 180* apart?
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 · (Edited)
A quick update on my engine build. The mains were out of round so I had Driskell Racing Engines align hone the mains and look at the bearing clearances. The mains are now set at .0030 - .0033 clearance and the rods are set at .0028 for 7 of and .0029 for 1. I installed crankshaft and it feels much much better.

I was doing one last mock up of the rods and piston to make sure they cleared the oil squirters and I noticed the piston was sitting down in the cylinder by a little over .030 which isn't right since they're supposed to be sitting at zero deck. I started checking things and it turned out that the pins hadn't been moved to compensate for the stroke. I started with a set of JE pistons for a 3.9 stroke which has a 1.165 compression height and for the 3.825 stroke the pin should have been moved for a 1.2025 compression height. Somewhere Callies and JE got crossed up so they're making a new set which will take about 4 weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 · (Edited)
Adjusting the oil squirters to work with the pistons has been fun. First I got them to clear the pistons and then went to rotate the crank and found the big end of the rod was touching the opposing cylinder's squirter so I've been adjusting those. Now I need to back through to make sure both the piston and the rods are clearing. I've tried getting a camera down in there to see how much clearance I have but that's been difficult. Kind of tight working quarters.
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I also received my new clutch. I went with the Tilton ST-246 700 ft. lb. version. We'll see how it works out for me. It might not be enough clutch but if something has to give I'd rather it be the clutch than another component. Also the T56 Magnum is rated for 700 ft lbs. This will primarily be a street car so I wanted the sprung hub.
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Coming along very nice. Your car is gonna a wild ride. It’s gonna cause excessive smiles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
Thanks, I'm trying to figure out if I have enough clearance around the piston oil squirters. I had to massage them (i.e. bend) to get them to clear the JE pistons and the longer stroke. On one of the forums someone posted that I need .080 clearance "because they move around alot". I'm not sure I can get that. I have to adjust them to clear the piston skirt and then the one for opposite cylinder to clear the big end of the rod. Currently I'm at .040 or so on the big end and it's hard to measure the piston end due to the shape but I'd say I'm getting similar clearance there measuring with my old precision eyes.

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