Team Chevelle banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part JULY's Ride of the Month Challenge!
101 - 120 of 126 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #101 ·
I'm making a little more progress. I started running the brake and fuel lines. I'm running a 1/2" feed with a 3/8" return on the fuel lines. So far I'm not real thrilled with how the rear of the fuel lines are coming out. I'm thinking I'm going to get a set for an SS and tweak the rears. Normally they run on the inside of the arch but since my car has the brace for the mini tub frame modification I'll have to run it on the outside for a short distance and then move to the top of the rear axle arch. I still need to find a place to mount/plumb in the fuel filter. I'm thinking maybe the inside of the passenger side arch.

On the brake lines I'm have to rework them to work with Wilwood master/proportioning valve. It's kind of a tight fit since the proportioning valve sits on the LH side of the master cylinder.

I also finally got my DBW throttle worked out. Now it feels like an original 67 throttle and gives me back the leg room that the corvette throttle was taking away.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #102 ·
I haven't posted in awhile but have been making some progress.

I wanted a little more dish on the rear wheels so I had a '70 12 bolt cut down so that it's about 4" narrower than an original '67 rear (thanks to Gary Nicholson). I was built with an Eaton Posi, bearing ends to eliminate the C clips, billet caps, 1350 yoke, dutchman axles. I also had the mounts changed for the coil overs. The DSE coilovers mount with the larger end up so I made a new cross mount for them.

I got the 1/2" fuel line ran. I ended up mounting the fuel filter on the inside of the arch on the frame. I'm looking at using a PWM controller so I don't have to run a return line.

I finished up the dash mods to mount the double din touch screen in the dash along with the cup holder

I finished running the brake lines.

I built a mount to put the ECM up under the dash. It was a tight clearance to the LH vent tube but I found a solution by putting an elbow on the vent.

Here's some pics.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,188 Posts
I used the Modern Driveline kit also but had to trim the peddle box to clear the heim joint arc. Looks like yours clears ok, must be a slight difference between a 65 and 67. Issue was getting full stroke of the clutch master.

Nice progress!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #104 ·
I picked up a few new parts during the holiday sales. I bought a Dakota Digital RTX cluster, a Tanks Inc 450 LPH fuel pump, and a Hooker Blackheart 3" exhaust system. The Tanks Inc 450 LPH fuel pump just barely fits through the hole in their tank.

I mocked up the dash to make sure every thing fits. The RTX cluster comes with a switch to allow you to toggle the screens. It has a little bracket to hang it under the dash. To me that looks a little hokey so I'm going to modify the dash to mount it on the bottom side where the convertible top switch would have been (the square hole on the bottom on the dash in the back ground). Also I cutout some pics of the Dakota Digital A/C controllers and I think I like the one with 3 knobs best rather than having another screen down below.

I also mocked up the exhaust to make sure it would clear everything since I have coil overs and the ABC frame narrow kit. The included the wrong brackets for the front hangers so I'm waiting on them.

Here's a couple of pics
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Well it's been a while since I've posted on the progress. It's been one step forward and two back. I've gotten the radiator worked out, battery relocated to trunk and cable routing somewhat figured out, Dakota Digital main module mounted, A/C lines, and Reservoir for hydraulic clutch worked out. I'll post some pics of these.

Also I changed directions on the engine. I sold the L99 and am looking at building an engine using an LS9 block and LS9 CNC heads. It's going to be a "396" (3.825 stroke x 4.065 bore) with a callies/JE rotating assembly (Magnum crank, Ultra rods, and custom JE pistons). I didn't want to go to the 416 because the piston come out of the bottom of the cylinders and you have to deal with the piston squirters plus I like the idea of being able to say I have a "396" under the hood. The rotating assembly has been on order for awhile so hopefully I'll receive it before too much longer.

I also sold the Maggie and am looking at a Kong Performance LSA 2650 or possibly the 3100 when it comes out. I'm thinking about making it a flex fuel setup so I can run E85 but that means swapping out the gas tank and pump. I'd like to be able to run 17 to 19 lbs of boost. I'm still a little concerned with the clearance between the throttle body and the radiator but I don't have the parts yet to mock that up.

I didn't like the idea of running the supercharger on the same belt as the accessories so I decided to switch over to an LSA style drive. In order to do that and run a GM A/C compressor low I had to move the engine forward 1 inch. To do that I switched from the rear biased Holley mounts to the front biased mounts. The LSA style drive is a hybrid of the corvette accessories with the LSA supercharger pieces added. For the A/C compressor I'm using an early CTS V compressor which is fixed displacement and will work with the Vintage Air system

Overall I'm pretty close to being done with fabrication and pulling the body to paint the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #107 ·
LS9 will be fun! Post pics once you get that installed :)
It won't quite be an LS9 ;). I had the LS9 CNC heads and was going to install them on the L99 but then found a great deal on a new LS9 block. I assume it was close out and Summit had them for less than a new LS3 block so I couldn't pass it up. I almost bought 2 and should have since they're discontinued.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #108 · (Edited)
Here's the radiator stack. I had to make mounts since the C&R radiator is quite a bit wider than the original mounts. Also I needed clearance for the heat exchanger for the intercooler heat exchanger.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #109 ·
Here's a shot of the battery mount and panel for the Holley PDM or Coach Controls. I was planning on running a rear solenoid but I'm thinking about leaving the positive cable live to allow for charging the battery. I'll have a 200A breaker on the line for safety. I made a trough (still need to make the cover) under the rear seat to prevent any rubbing on the battery cables or wiring harness. I'm planning on running the cables along the tunnel and going through the firewall behind the engine to keep them hidden.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Here's the A/C lines. I didn't like how Vintage Air ran them into the engine compartment from the condenser so I tried to mirror it similar to the factory. Also I had a 2x2 bulk head connector but I couldn't get the lines to work out in the fender cowl area so I changed to the in line bulk head connector. Also Vintage Air had the lines for the coming out through the vent for the evaporator and the heater core. I wanted to still have the floor vents so I made a plate to allow them to come through just above the kick panel.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #111 ·
I didn't like the look of the little plastic reservoir that came with the hydraulic clutch kit and I didn't want to mount it on the firewall so I made a mounting bracket to mount a Wilwood reservoir next to the master cylinder. Also all of the aftermarket reservoirs I found didn't seal the brake fluid with a bladder to help keep moisture out. I may have to try my hand at black anodizing to get it to go along with the scheme a little better.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
It won't quite be an LS9 ;). I had the LS9 CNC heads and was going to install them on the L99 but then found a great deal on a new LS9 block. I assume it was close out and Summit had them for less than a new LS3 block so I couldn't pass it up. I almost bought 2 and should have since they're discontinued.
WOW, nice find!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
Here's the radiator stack. I had to make mounts since the C&R radiator is quite a bit wider than the original mounts. Also I needed clearance for the heat exchanger for the intercooler heat exchanger.
Nice! I've got the same one for my 65'. I'm not going to use the power steering cooler though, going with a separate front cooler for that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Well the rotating assembly has been on order for over 7 months now. Callies is telling me it is in balancing so hopefully in the next couple of weeks I'll get it. I was waiting to see if Kong was going to produce the TVS3100 before ordering but they pulled the plug on it (as did several other vendors) after testing it. Given this I ordered the LSA Kong 2650 which should be plenty for my build. I'd like to be able to run on pump gas but am planning on adding a flex fuel sensor and sizing the fuel pump/injectors so I can run E85 also.

It will be interesting to see what HP/Torque this build will produce.

Here's some of the specifics on the engine
  • LS9 Block and LS9 CNC heads
  • Callies 6 CTW Magnum Crank (3.825 stroke)
  • Callies Ultra I Beam 6.125 Rods
  • JE Dish Pistons (8.9 compression ratio)
  • Total Seal Rings
  • BTR Stage 3 Torque Cam
  • BTR Shaft Rockers
  • Johnson Lifters
  • Kong 2650 LSA Supercharger
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #119 · (Edited)
My son and I didn't make it as far as we wanted to during the week. We went to put the ARP main studs in and the kit had 2 nuts that were too big for the studs. Summit Racing worked with me and sent the the replacement nuts 1 day air. We started measuring everything and there was very little variance in the bores, pistons, mains, etc. I measured with and without a torque plate and there was up to .002 difference in the cylinder bore with the torque plate vs without. The torque plate brought the bores very close to dead on the bore spec. Also we were able to bend the oil squirters to clear the pistons.

I didn't like the Katech head studs since they didn't use all of the threads in the block and interfered with the header flange so I bought some ARP 2000 head bolts. It made me a little nervous torqueing them to 130 ft lbs in an aluminum block.

716701


I struggled getting a valid measurement on the main clearances with the groove in the block half of the bearing so I ended up using some plastigage. All of the mains are between .001 and .0015 which is within spec. It looks like 0w-20w or 5w-20w is in my future.
716702


Gapped the rings at a tight .028 since Total Seal call for .007 per bore inch for 15-30 lbs of boost when running a gapless 2nd ring. They call for .0055 per bore inch for up to 15 lbs of boost. Since I figure I'll target the 15 - 20 lbs of boost .028 should work. I ended up using a vernier caliper to square the ring in the bore.
716703


File fitting the gapless 2nd ring was a bit of a pain. The gapless rail took a bit to figure out how to do it. I ended up filing the main ring first and then fit the rail in the main ring and then filed the rail to match the main ring.

716705


The ring filer sure helped out on this. You can pretty much measure the initial gap and then take off what you need. Usually I'd run about .0005 less than what I needed. If initial measurement was .0018, I'd take .0095 off the ring to get to a tight .0028.

716708
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #120 ·
I ordered a set of .001 undersized main bearings. Oddly the crank has a tight spot that begins to show up at around 45 ft lbs of torque. At 60 ft lbs on the inner studs it feels about the same as it does at 45 ft lbs. If I have momentum it moves right past the spot but if I stop there you can definitely tell something is not right. I would think if the mains were out of round or the crank was slightly bent I'd get two tight spots 180* apart but that's not the case. Looking at the main bearings they aren't showing any wear but they do have the Calico coating on them.

Anyone seen this before?
 
101 - 120 of 126 Posts
Top