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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
I've made a little progress on the adding a cup holder to the dash of the '67. I have my first pass at the dash panel patch and cup holder cover. I still have some cleanup work to do on them but they came out ok enough I think it may work. So maybe a cup holder is in the future for the '67. I still need to figure out how to mount the cup holder assy to the dash.

Rodger sent me a console shell for a '68 - '72 and that looks like it will work out well with the tunnel patch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Looks very good man!!! Awesome!

Thanks Freddy.

Well I've spent way too much time on making a cup holder work in the dash but I'm pretty much there. Now I need to get up the nerve to cut a perfectly good A/C dash to weld it in. I had to add a place for the Vintage Air (or probably the Dakota Digital) A/C controller. I want it to mount vertical rather than being sloped down like the dash so I recessed it. I'm planning on using the 3 knob version. I think it came out OK for an amateur at metal working.

Also I got the V/A unit mounted under the dash. I didn't want to drill holes through the fire wall nor drill holes in the cowl area so I made mounts using a bolt and washer. I cut off the head of the bolt and then welded them to the washer. Ground it flat and the was able to weld that to the firewall. I did this for the rear mounts on the unit and the LH defroster vent. I made a bracket with 3 studs for the front unit mount and the RH defroster vent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
I made a quick mock up to see what the double DIN radio would look like in the dash. The final piece will be a little more complicated but this gives me an idea of what it will look like and what other problems it creates. If you do the tall drinks in the cup holder they would over lap the radio but a normal can is fine. Also I'll have to make sure the shifter handle I use slants back fairly close to the top of the console.

For some reason in the picture the cup holder looks like it slants down but it's actually pretty level.
 

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Looking at your pictures, you were able to mount the A/C low on the passenger side. I got the same motor mounts that move the engine forward. Thats great news to see!
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Looking at your pictures, you were able to mount the A/C low on the passenger side. I got the same motor mounts that move the engine forward. Thats great news to see!
Robert, Which accessory drive/balancer/waterpump are you using? I started with the forward biased mounts but am now using the rear biased mounts (needed to move the engine back to help the supercharger clear the hood).

My setup is:

Camaro/truck balancer
Camaro water pump
Corvette accessory drive
Holley spacer for main accessory drive bracket
Truck A/C bracket
 

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Robert, Which accessory drive/balancer/waterpump are you using? I started with the forward biased mounts but am now using the rear biased mounts (needed to move the engine back to help the supercharger clear the hood).

My setup is:

Camaro/truck balancer
Camaro water pump
Corvette accessory drive
Holley spacer for main accessory drive bracket
Truck A/C bracket
I have nothing yet, I am still picking parts up. I plan to run the LSA blower if I go the LS route. Most of the things I have seen have the AC mounted up high on the passenger side. Were you still able to mount it down low with the rear biased mounts? I fully intend to run a 2" cowl too, so the supercharger height shouldn't make a difference for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Were you still able to mount it down low with the rear biased mounts?
Yes I was. Here's a pic showing the clearance.

It looks like the challenge with the LSA kit will be where to put the alternator since the GM one seems to mount it low on the drivers side. I believe that would interfere with the steering box. It looks like the LS9 kit would work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 · (Edited)
I'm thinking about going blue as a tribute to my brother since that's what he had it painted back in the early '70s. He wasn't sure the color other than it it was a Ford blue, so I had a spray out of Marina blue and a more modern blue with a little pearl in it (i.e let's just say it's not Ford blue).

I haven't seen them in person yet and my friend hasn't told me which is which but I'm guessing the lighter is Marina. The darker has a lot of flop in it which might show the body lines better.
 

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I'm thinking about going blue as a tribute to my brother since that's what he had it painted back in the early '70s. He wasn't sure the color other than it it was a Ford blue, so I had a spray out of Marina blue and a more modern blue with a little pearl in it (i.e let's just say it's not Ford blue).



I haven't seen them in person yet and my friend hasn't told me which is which but I'm guessing the lighter is Marina. The darker has a lot of flop in it which might show the body lines better.


My choice would be the left. If your not going with original then it doesn’t matter, choose what u like!

Everyone has done marina blue, red, black, etc.

Im going with a darker blue with lots of pearl. My original color was Sierra Fawn. Very elegant but most would prefer a sportier color.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
My choice would be the left. If your not going with original then it doesn’t matter, choose what u like!

Everyone has done marina blue, red, black, etc.

Im going with a darker blue with lots of pearl. My original color was Sierra Fawn. Very elegant but most would prefer a sportier color.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chuck, What color are you thinking? I like this one but can't find the actual color other than "deep blue metallic"
 

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Chuck, What color are you thinking? I like this one but can't find the actual color other than "deep blue metallic"


I have not decided. Its like a mental block lol.

Been looking at new cars trying to get a feel for what i want. Dont want a blue that flips to purple shade. Something similar to pic interests me

IMG_6074.JPG


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I initially was going to paint my car this color (Lemans Blue Corvette) but then switched to green. I have a gallon of it mixed up that I'm not using too. Anyone interested in it?
 

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I initially was going to paint my car this color (Lemans Blue Corvette) but then switched to green. I have a gallon of it mixed up that I'm not using too. Anyone interested in it?


PM me what brand it is and price


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Just a quick update. I'm trying to work through getting the pedals, brake master, proportioning valve, and clutch master mocked up. Already it looks like the Wilwood rod on the master is too short to reach the clevis so I'll have to figure that one out. I'm thinking about welding a coupling nut to the brake pedal clevis. Also it looks like the upper studs that go through the firewall on the pedal bracket may not be long enough for everything that's being mounted to them (clutch master plate, Wilwood brake master cylinder, and Wilwood proportioning valve spacers/bracket) so I'll need figure that out too.

I was looking at the clutch master cylinder kits from McLeod and Modern Driveline since it seems like some were having issues with home made kits or there was firewall flex on the ones that mounted directly to the firewall rather than the bracket under the brake master cylinder. I did get some feedback over on LS1Tech about the Modern Driveline kit and it was good so I pulled the trigger on it. It looks like it has the least amount of modifications to the car to make it work which I liked. I couldn't tell if you had to drill for the McLeod kit plus you have to use their clutch pedal. In looking at their bracket pics it looks like the clutch master cylinder hole was offset enough that you probably do. I'll post pics of the Modern Driveline setup once I get it put together.

I was thinking about trying to adapt the neutral safety switch off of a 70-72 Chevelle on to the 67 clutch pedal setup. Also I need to work out putting a switch on to kick out cruise control if the clutch is pressed. For that I was thinking about using a later brake switch for a Chevelle with cruise (I'll also need to replace the brake light switch to the same switch so it will kick out when the brake is pressed). Has anyone else worked this out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
I received the Modern Driveline kit today and mocked it up. Looks like a nice piece and fits well. It looks like I'll need to clearance just a little bit at the bottom of the clutch master cylinder since it's just touching. I think I can just bend the lip on the firewall opening to get 1/8" or so of clearance.

I need to get a stud stretcher for the upper studs on the brake/clutch bracket. By the time I stack all of the pieces I can only get 2 or 3 threads on the upper nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Just a quick post. I've been working on getting the DBW (drive by wire) throttle pedal placed the way I want it. I originally tried using the corvette pedal but it sat too high so I adapted it to use the original pedal. In case you're interested here's the thread on working through it.

Also I'm working on routing the brake lines and will be working on the fuel lines while the body is off. Also here's a link to my thread on trying to get pics and more pics of my routing.


https://www.chevelles.com/forums/141-lsx-engine/1070024-dbw-gas-pedal-setup.html
https://www.chevelles.com/forums/16...-67-conv-el-camino-front-back-brake-line.html
 

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