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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Opinions on whats goin on with my drivers side door gaps?Looks like its just sitting too high,but just lowering it brings me uncomfortably close and uneven to the rocker.Havent torn into it yet,but will be in a few months.Just very curious as 2nd gen Camaros are my forte,and the 67,not yet.I already know there was questionable bodywork done to it back in '75,just curious on some ideas before I go to it.







 

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How are the body bushings? Worn bushings can wreak havoc with your gaps.
I just finished setting the gaps on my 67. On disassembly, I found 4 shims on each front mount. during reassembly, i tried to set the gaps without the shims. But the gap at the top of the fender/door was just too close. I wound up reinserting them.
Shims under your front mount would open the top gap without changing the vertical alignment of the fender and door.
HTH

tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah,I know.I was more referring to the heighth of things,and that drivers side body line.The pillar/door could stand to come down an 1/8",which would make all the top and middle stuff nice,but then the bottom rocker gap would be tighter than I would think.Im suspecting either a messed with rocker,or a bad lower door patch,longways.Ill know better once I take off the inner door panel for the patch thing,I just wanted to get some more ideas bouncing around.All input is welcome.Thanks man.
 

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Havent torn into it yet,but will be in a few months.I already know there was questionable bodywork done to it back in '75,just curious on some ideas before I go to it.
No sense in guessing till the panels are stripped. Find out what's GM, what isn't, and what was butchered. Perfect gap labor is by the hour but you are doing it yourself. Body bushings. Shim, cut, weld, grind, file, etc.. T&M.
 

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I agree with Tom, the trim at the front edge of the door is misaligned, that's part of it. The top edge of the door is too close to the A pillar and the fender to door gap closes up toward the rocker panel. Remove the door striker to eliminate any up or down effect it has when you close the door. Adjust your hinges (assuming the hinges are tight and have been rebuilt). The effect you want is the door should rotate slightly downward at the front. The door to fender gap should open up at bottom of door. Make sure the rear of the door aligns with the top of the quarter panel and the belt lines on both match up. Re-install the striker making sure it doesn't force the door up or down when it closes. I'm guessing you have a repro door skin or some body work at it's leading edge because the fender gap is uneven at the upper end of the door. Be patient, adjusting the hinges will take hours, not minutes.
 

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That wide/uneven gap at the beltline where it meets the fr. fender is common on the driver's side, not so common on the pass. side. If you want it even, you'll have to weld/file. The driver's side fender is usually more rounded than the door below the beltline from Fisher Body so you'll no doubt have issues there if the repair hasn't already been made. I've always been impressed with the door/quarter panel gaps from GM on the 66/67 cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys.Thats what I was looking for.The little commonalities with these cars in particular.
Ultimately I'll make it right.Im not ready to start sanding into paint yet and was just wondering about it.
 
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