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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK I just got my Tremec in and The directions said the fork to adjuster should have a 1/8 play at rest,If I have it there I have no clutch release, I had to crank it in about a 1/2 to work and put constant pressure on the pressure plate is this correct?
The only thing I can maybe think is the bell crank is wrong or installed upside down (long side up,Short side down) No directions on this part all gess work. Rod goes threw steering colume fire wall cover.
 

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Rich - there's a few factors at work on the clutch adjustment. The pivot ball may be worn and the TOB may not be the right size. There are three different sized BBC TOB's listed in Napa's parts book. I ended up going with an adjustable pivot ball from McCleod. They also have an adjustable TOB - but I couldn't make it small enough for my needs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Eveything is new no used parts,Auto to stick conversion.

I really think the bellcrank is the problem the push rod is pointing down about 1" ,1 1/2" off centerline. like it should have too long ends,Not a short and long.
 

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I had to bend my z bar to get alignment for the fork pushrod, i also mounted the fork pushrod on the other side than factory because the repro z bars are such crap.


If you are talking about the pushrod that leads from the pedal to the z bar, this is supposed to be down at an angle. Also what do you mean "2 long ends, not one"?


Another issue I had was the crappy "heavy duty lakewood" clutch fork, it rode up and down the shaft horribly. I installed a gm fork which worked much smoother, plus it was slight shorter, which gives more clutch travel to pedal movement because of the shorter moment arm. Does that make sense? This would give you enough travel to disengage the clutch maybe, I know it helped me.


You obviously are not getting enough travel, I would say you need to put in an adjustable ball stud, and try to get some adjustment there. However, I ended up using a stock non adjustable ball stud, and an adjustable throwout bearing, and removed both spacers so it was as short as possible. Your throw out bearing SHOULD NOT be touching the clutch fingers with the clutch pedal disengaged(pedal up). PM me if you have any questions,I had a hell of a time with the linkage stuff, and now know it inside and out. Good luck! :beers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All linkage's are in line and straight,It's the lower bellcrank linkage (push rod) is at a angle (lower at the clutch fork by 1" to 1-1/2") It's like the bellcrank it's self has too short of a throw.
 

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If the TOB is not installed correctly, it will cause the problem like you have. If the spring ears and arm are not both in the TOB its not correct. You should have the short TOB- 1 7/32" if the clutch fingers or springs are angled to the rear of the car. If the fingers or springs are flat you need the long TOB- 1 7/8 "
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The throw out is installed correct,I have done a few sticks (on Fords ) I do know what you mean by the fingers in the TOB,But how would a longer TOB change the position,Longer TOB would only move the fork forward to the push rod?

The TOB is sitting flat, The fork is flat,It's the push rod thats at a angle.
 

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If I'm right we are having the same problems with my Son's 70 Nova right now. We built this car out of pieces and have a mismatched clutch fork. From the research i did tonight it looks like the2nd gen Nova, 1st gen Camaro, and Chevelles shared the same clutch fork till 73 where the arm got a little longer and straighter. I installed a NAPA replacement today and found my adjustment rod wasn't long enough to make it work and the fork hits against the floor of the car-I think because they gave me a 73-up style fork. Hopefully the Chev dealership still has factory correct forks.
 

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Do you have the correct height engine and trans mounts?
I think he got it solved, his last post was about 5 months ago... :p
 
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