[sbubby]

guys need some advise i went from a SB to BB conversion, first set of manifold i purchased (ebay purchase) were from an impala and would not work so i went ahead and dropped the engine and hooked up the tranny and so forth, i have now purchase another set of manifolds passanger side should go right on from the top but the drivers side im not sure am i going to have to pull the steering column?? it looks like it will be a close fit between the coulmn and the manifold. i would appreciate any advice by the way here the manifolds i purchased sure hope they are the right ones.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=8018386197&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT

if anyone has pics of the manifold - coulmn clearance i would sure like to see them thanks

 

[northern 396]

I'll try posting a picture that I took after dropping the engine back in.

If you look carefully, you can see the black column beside the manifold. (This is a correct, original '67 manifold in my '67 SS ragtop.)

You may not have to completely remove the steering column. Disconnecting the column at the rag joint and loosening other bolts on the column as necessary may allow you to move the column out of the way enough to install the manifold.

David

 

[phocksphyre]

You don't need to pull the steering column. Unbolt the motor mount on the drivers side, and unbolt the tranny mount. Jack up the drivers side of the engine a couple of inches and it will fit in from the top.
BE CAREFUL with your jack under the engine. I use a short piece of 2X4 on top of my floor jack. I fit it against the oilpan rail. It will go up several inches before it hits the trans tunnel. Don't try to lift the car this way! The jack may try to kick out if it is on wheels - so be careful. Don't put it against anything that will bend (ie: bottom of oilpan). I don't mean to insult you, but I would rather tell you unecessarily than to have you get hurt or damage something. Good luck!
John

 

[sbubby]

heres a photo of my clearance

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rdkvel66/album?.dir=/aed3

 

[1966_L78]

The manifold to column shaft clearance will be pretty tight... I think even the exhaust manifolds actually have some clearance dimples where the shaft goes...

Not sure, but you might have to install these as the motor is going in (almost on the mounts, but still hanging from a hoist), and maybe hang the manifolds in rough position with some wire... Not sure if there is enough clearance to install once the engine is in the car (I have only done headers and most had to be done this way), and since you likley have a SB steering column, the shaft/column must be installed before the manifolds/engine are in (thats why the BB shafts have the removable rag-joint flange, so the column can slide in or out if needed for repairs)...

Also, since you have a 67 Chevelle, did you change the front brake line? The factory BB cars had a special brakeline for the passenger/front brake line. On the passenger-side frame rail, the special BB line travels back toward the firewall (further than the SB line) before coming up and over the frame and then back forward to where it hooks up to the brake hose...

This special brake line was used because the passenger-side exhaust manifold was too close to the brake line and would either crush the line if the engine torqued over or cook the brake fluid (not really sure what the specific reason was)... These lines are available through most suppliers and pretty cheap, but I am not sure how hard to install with the engine/manifolds installed, since it runs under the engine... Should be able to snake it in from underneath though, but maybe have to remove the passenger-side exhaust manifold and tweak the line a bit...

Might not be a big issue with headers (depending on brand/clearance), but with stock exhaust I think it needs to be addressed... I doubt the factory would have spent the money and made two different lines if they didn't feel it was necessary for safety...

 

[sbubby]

i never heard of sb bb steering culumn i would assume they would be the same my car is a 138 ss model i just never had a bb in it i did purcahse a tilt 67 steering colums and ad it a few years back. im just trying to remove anything without having too seems like the manifold would bolt right up with the column removed ?? i just dont know how the column would reinstall

 

[1966_L78]

i never heard of sb bb steering culumn i would assume they would be the same my car is a 138 ss model i just never had a bb in it i did purcahse a tilt 67 steering colums and ad it a few years back. im just trying to remove anything without having too seems like the manifold would bolt right up with the column removed ?? i just dont know how the column would reinstall

There is a metal flange at the bottom end of the column, and this flange attaches to the rag-joint (flexible coupler) just above the steering box.

On BB cars, the flange is removeable, the shaft is slined and there is a pinch bolt on the coupler (very similar to the flange on the other side of the rag-joint that attaches to the steering box).

On a non-BB column, the matal flange is staked or welded (permanently attached) to the column...

This flange is too big to slide between the manifold and the upper control arm, IF the steering column needed to be removed... Once installed, you will see that the column shaft is surrounded by the manifold, the frame and the upper control arm... No easy way to get it out unless you unbolt the motor mounts and maybe the manifold, etc.

Tilt columns (I think all, not BB-specific) have the removable flange too...


I knew the shafts were different, but never noticed the problem until working on a buddies "clone"... We needed to drop the dash to rewire the car, but realised we had no way to get the column out of the car (without alot of extra work)...

 

[sbubby]

yes mine does have the metal flange if unbolt it from down where it connects to the steering box and pull the column out it should slide right back in with the manifold installed HOPEFULLY. i wonder what my best choice pull it out of the flange and leave it bolted to the steering box or take the whole thing out and and try to install it at the box ?????

 

[northern 396]

Either way, it is tight in there, but not impossible. You probably have to remove the bolt all the way, as the shaft should be notched.

Before removing or loosening the column (you might be able to get by without actually removing it) make sure your front wheels are pointed straight forward. That may make realigning the steering wheel easier.

David

 

[DaleM]

yes mine does have the metal flange if unbolt it from down where it connects to the steering box and pull the column out it should slide right back in with the manifold installed HOPEFULLY. i wonder what my best choice pull it out of the flange and leave it bolted to the steering box or take the whole thing out and and try to install it at the box ?????

If memory serves, there's also a small metal strap that goes across one of the bolts through the rag joint that serves as a ground path for the horn.

 

[1966_L78]

yes mine does have the metal flange if unbolt it from down where it connects to the steering box and pull the column out it should slide right back in with the manifold installed HOPEFULLY. i wonder what my best choice pull it out of the flange and leave it bolted to the steering box or take the whole thing out and and try to install it at the box ?????

You must have the flange that bolts to the COLUMN!!! They all have the other flange that bolts to the steering box... If you DON'T have the flange that bolts to the "column", then I'd leave it attached...

Leave the flange and rag-joint attached to the steering box, separate the shaft from the flange... Thats the point. Once the exhaust manifold is installed, the narrow column should slide back by the exhaust and back into the flange... BUT, the entire flange will NOT fit between the exh manifold and frame, hence the reason for the bolt-on flange for BB cars...

It should just be one 7/16" 12-point bolt, and the under dash stuff (10+ minute job to get column out). Even if not completely needed, it will give you more room to move the manifold around when installing... Might need to remove the steering wheel or the drivers seat (not sure if the wheel will clear the seat), but still not too hard of a job...

and you really should put your location in your profile... There might be a member nearby that can stop by and show you or help out

 

[sbubby]

anyone who has any tips at all that might work i would appreciate it thanks for all the help

 

[sbubby]

gonna try to get these manifolds on this week man it looks like a tight fit just how much room is there between the manifold and the steering column when its all installed looks like it would rub

 

[Mr Chevelle]

The ebay add description for the exhaust manifolds shows a different casting number than my book for the right manifold. I’m not saying it won’t work only that it is not the same casting number as my book lists.

For a 1967 396 Chevelle I show the same left manifold of 3909879 but the right side should be 3909880 not 3916178 as listed. I hope this doesn’t cause you a problem.

I know your dealing with fitting the left side but this information might be nice to know if something goes wrong.

 

[DaleM]

Colvin's book, taken with a grain of salt, is a bit confusing.

1967 Chevelle RH:
#3909880 (mid-year) from January thru early June and replaced with #3916170 for rest of production year.

...yet...

#3916178 (very late) is shown for early June and is identical to #3909880 except for internal and external casting changes

...however...

no mention is made of a #3916170 casting. #3868874 was used August thru December, 1966.


FWIW, the LH manifolds are listed as #3902401 from June 1966 thru March 1967 (but only cast from June through December, 1966). The #3909879 replaced the #3902401 in March.

 

[sbubby]

heres a pic of my setup i just dont see how manifold will fit with this little clearance its got me puzzled guess ill find out when i pull the steering column

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rdkvel66/album?.dir=/1f6f