[phantom61]

I'm repainting my entire dash with rattle can flat black on the top and semi-gloss on the sides and center (center is removed and turned out great). I've read numerous posts on-line how difficult flat black is to apply without leaving spray lines and thought it couldn't happen to me. Called Rustoleum ahead of project to get tips and he said it wouldn't be an issue. It was a mess after the first attempt then retried with a little heavier volume and now it's like a mild undercoating texture with same lines. I'm normally pretty competent with rattle cans but this flat has me frustrated . Any ideas or maybe a satin might be a better choice. Thx.

 

[thehiddencheese]

Why don't you just use plastidip?

 

[KarlJay]

As far as spray cans go, I've found Krylon to be better. They came out with a paint made stick to plastic years ago, and I've had great results with it.

 

[Shootstraight]

Any paint made to go on vinyl is very thin, you need one that is truly made for vinyl. Typically the home store brands are not as good as a body/paint supply store. Brands such as SEM or Transtar for instance. You will pay more per can but getting a good product used by professionals vs hobbiests.

If the paint you sprayed is rough it wasn't going on wet enough. If its not too long maybe it can be wiped off with a reducer. Try something on an edge, be careful though, don't want to soften the dash. I'd prep the panel again, get a better product and test panel an old door panel or something that won't be a problem if it get messed up.

 

[Raven1]

X2 on SEM. Rustoleum has no place in a restoration shop, nor should a hobbiest be using it. Krylon is not bad but their industrial line is no longer widely sold to the public as it once was. Their satin black (1613) has been reformulated to 51613 and it must be obtained through industrial suppliers. Krylon with the 5 balls on the label is the better one. I have used Krylon's Fusion on occasion and it's held up well.

Anyone who has ever used SEM has not been disappointed.

 

[phantom61]

I located a shop that carries SEM products about 20 miles from here so am anxious to try it out. I had good luck in the past with Rustoleum but this time has been a nightmare. I'm willing to jump ship for the better product you're recommending. I understand the spray gun is the ideal way to restore these cars but this case with windshield and center dash out, I'm having to make do. Thx for your input.

 

[CoolBlueGlow]

You're talking about the steel, not the vinyl part, correct? Windshield out, I presume?

Just an idea...have you thought about using a spray gun? Even a cheap Harbor Freight touch-up gun is going to outperform any rattle can. I see them on sale for 10-25 dollars all the time. You can use a small air compressor with these small touch up guns...especially their HVLP versions.

I see model HF 47016 and 67181 both on sale for $15.99 over Labor Day. Pick up a 68224 screw on air filter for your gun...good to go. Yeah, you're not going to paint a CAR with this, but we are talking a dash top.

If you decide to go the paint gun route, PM me your mailing address and I will give you a pint of ready to spray black lacquer already mixed with flatting agent. Just stir and spray. Black lacquer is what they used at the factory...zero degree gloss.

Just my OPINION

 

[Raven1]

Aren't 67 Chevelles suede finish, zero gloss on dash tops?

 

[phantom61]

Raven, zero gloss is correct. Keith, thank you very much for the info and offer. Yes, I have the windshield out to repaint the metal portion of dash top. I'm going to make one more attempt to put a quality paint out of the SEM brand can and if there are ANY hiccups, will pick up the inexpensive gun you mentioned and go your route. I'm trying not to make this a bigger project than it needs to be. The spray gun would definitely give me the wide spray pattern I need. I'll let you know, thx.

 

[Raven1]

Raven, zero gloss is correct. Keith, thank you very much for the info and offer. Yes, I have the windshield out to repaint the metal portion of dash top. I'm going to make one more attempt to put a quality paint out of the SEM brand can and if there are ANY hiccups, will pick up the inexpensive gun you mentioned and go your route. I'm trying not to make this a bigger project than it needs to be. The spray gun would definitely give me the wide spray pattern I need. I'll let you know, thx.

Yes, zero gloss but suede finish is achieved with a texture additive. In which case you have to have it mixed at your jobber, add your own to the paint, or buy SEM Texture Coating. The amount of texture and appearance is varied by application technique. This can also be done with lacquer or basecoat with a dry spraying method. http://www.semproducts.com/product-catalog/specialty-products/texture-coating/
SEM also makes paint in gun sprayable form.

You have to strip all that previously applied paint, or you will have problems. Rustoleum is very prone to lifting, as well as other cheap aerosols. Correct prep cannot be stressed enough. If you remove the paint done to bare metal I'd blow a coat of epoxy on first.

SEM aerosol texture coating topped with flattening agent added to Trim Black.

 

[CoolBlueGlow]

Carl,
I recommend you take Scott's advice. I have learned a lot from his posts over the years, and he does this for a living. I'm a hobbyist. In the past, I've used SEM products on Scott's advice and had excellent outcomes.

 

[Tod74]

Anyone that has been here awhile knows Scott LOOVES Rustoleum!! Lol

 

[TXCR13]

I have had great results with SEM products, and I am an average hobbyist. Their Trim Black is a nice satin finish. The thing I like best about it is you can touch up spray it, and will have to look real hard to see where it was touched up, if you can even tell at all. It goes on fairly thin, so make sure you have enough coats to get good coverage. SEM has good product info on their website, and because it is sold at auto paint shops, the pros there are usually willing to help with questions. The difference between SEM products and Rustoleum is day and night.