[twbailey75]

Has anyone had to repair the part on the dash that goes up to the windshield area?? Mine seems to be rusting in that area from one side to another. It is actually on the inside of the car in the dash area opposite of the dash pad area.

 

[Euell Florett]

Would you say the dash rust is touching the base of the glass?

 

[keithb]

Yes

 

[twbailey75]

Would you say the dash rust is touching the base of the glass?

not sure....will look tomorrow bud.

 

[Shawn Smith]

My buddy's 67 is rusted from window channel half way up to the dash pad. We are still trying to decide what to do. (replace with used or fabricate new )

 

[Euell Florett]

My buddy's 67 is rusted from window channel half way up to the dash pad.

We are still trying to decide what to do.

(replace with used or fabricate new )

Try your utmost darndest to find a good used section & replace the rusty portion of the dash panel, rather than fab it. It'll turn out nicer, far easier too.

 

[chevychad]

That area warps so easy. Be careful when welding. I purchased the replacement pieces on the lower window channel. Ending up warping the dash metal. Many hours trying to fix it. Then found a donor car and cut out the hole dash top window channel etc and it worked out better the second time. I would recommend finding it off another car.

At the window channel there is a lip where the dah top sits on. Drill out the pinch weld and the replacement panel will rest on it. Makes it super easy.

Here are some images on the first time around:
https://www.me.com/gallery/#100068/IMG_3531

I don't have the recent pics yet, but it will give you the idea

 

[mryanduv]

replaced both pieces on my '67, inner & outer. bought repops & they actually fit up pretty well. better than i expected. the dash top piece goes up to the first defrost louver, the one closest to the windshield. take your time, drill the spots out, & fit it up. when i did mine, i used the new one as a template to cut the rusted area out, made a flat backup strip 1" wide & long enough to go from the a-pillar to the defroster & tacked it to the bottom of the dash so you will wind up with a 1/2" of it under the dash & 1/2" of it exposed for the patch panel to rest on. leave yourself around 1/32" gap for a full penetration weld, tack it up good, & go slow!!! don't let it get too hot. no more than one second welds at a time. the backer strip will also help keep it from warping as you weld.