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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I am hoping to get some feedback on my current 64' build. I just put the body back on the frame and got everything nice and clean. Excited and ready to put in my new wiring and purchase the engine and transmission. The only thing I am not changing is the rear end, I'd like to leave it alone, the gears feel tight and look good. I am guessing it's 3.08's and it's a 10 bolt non posi, and 17" wheels, this is going to be built for "daily driving" and a good amount of freeway driving and trips out of town. When I got the 64' it had nothing with it so I had to start from scratch without much to reference or any of the little dodads that nickel and dime builds, although these aren't incredibly difficult to put together, it usually comes down to the combo and choice of parts, for me at least.

I am for sure going with a 383 and after a lot of back and forth I think this would suit my needs, I saw more complete 383's but I want a serpentine belt setup and most come with the ol' skinny belts.
For the 383 the only thing I am really looking for is 400hp/tq or higher and I don't want too high of a compression ratio. I'm open to other 383 options if you guys know a good place.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3830ctc1s

What's a good TH350 trans and torque converter to pair with this engine? I don't have a driveline so I'll need to have one made or find one somewhere.
I'm only versed in the basics of transmissions, from what I read I think I may go without a kick down trans, a mild performance TH350 should be fine so what I'll be doing.

I'd appreciate any links, ideas or feedback. I am hoping you guys can help me spend some cash this week :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ha, nice. Yeah. Maybe a little more umph that I need or can afford.
I did consider the TH400 instead of a TH350, but as far as performance it's main benefit was strength.
Would that be worth it for something at 400hp/ 440tq and zero track time?
 

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th350 is more than enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
6" Short shaft or long shaft TH350 on the 64' Chevelle? Anyone recommend one around $1000?
I've seen a Hughs and a B&M that seemed fine. This one seems ok, but it doesn't mention if it has a speedometer gear installed (Which I want) or the kickdown cable (I am thinking of going without).
I don't have a driveline, so I guess it wouldn't matter too much, until it comes time to buy one, short or longer driveshaft better?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-311138/overview/
 

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6" Short shaft or long shaft TH350 on the 64' Chevelle? Anyone recommend one around $1000?
I've seen a Hughs and a B&M that seemed fine. This one seems ok, but it doesn't mention if it has a speedometer gear installed (Which I want) or the kickdown cable (I am thinking of going without).
I don't have a driveline, so I guess it wouldn't matter too much, until it comes time to buy one, short or longer driveshaft better?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-311138/overview/
Just a tip on that, I think that is a B.O.P. pattern, not Chevy. And as for the 700R4, I love the extra gear! Like people putting a 5 or 6 speed manual in never say, "Eh, 3 (or 4) was plenty"
 

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I built a similar '65 Chevelle SS.Started with a home built 383/350 combo that morphed into an all motor 509/glide that hooked everytime and flew to 9:80's with a best of 9:78.But thats later.
I built a cheap 383,10-1 Probe flat tops with valve clearancing,A Comp Hi-Tech circle track solid tappit cam,cheap eagle H beams and blew the wad on home ported Vic J.215cc heads.simple motor topped off with a vic.Jr. intake,stock 750 dp.Turbo 350-rebuilt-nothing fancy-and a "white box" no name(prob.A B&M) 3000 stall.10 bolt with Auburn posi and 4;10 gears.Skinny drag radials,it pulled the fronts a bit and ran a best of 11:18,driven easily on the street,always to the track and back..Of course that wasn't enough.but that 65 hauled for what it was.106 centerline and pulled quick and hard to 6500,just like Comp said it would.They stated way back then it was their best solid [email protected],and 540 lift was all.No fish story there.Car got a 12 point after being kicked off the track.Trans lasted and so did the motor,selling it to a buddy that ran it for years.You don't need a big cam or roller,big compression(sure helps)It did have 1 3/4" Supercomps.It took I believe 38 to 40 degrees to run best-(head chamber design).Vortecs-some say belong on trucks,I've never run them.
 

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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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For the trans, depending on where you live, there is probably a transmission shop in your area. Putting together a t350 with a mild shift kit shouldn't be too hard. Or you could buy either a Jegs or Summit brand trans and add a converter for around $1000.

You should probably settle on the engine combo first before deciding on the converter.
 

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short tail
 

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For the way you discuss using the car, the 700r4 would make the car very enjoyable. Cruise along at 75mph at less than 2000rpm in overdrive, and probably knock down some decent mileage. It's not about mild vs wild, just about how you want to use the car. Plus, it has steep 1st gear so hole shots will feel like 3.42 or 3.55's.

Just $0.02.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys, all super helpful!
The 700r4 is now sounding a little tempting! I counted my main gears, 37, but forgot to count the others to find out the exact gearing I have, which I'll try to do tonight.
I'd like to get my order in this weekend for my engine, trans and some other goodies just to get the solid basics mounted, so it looks like a car again.

I called some local engine builders and have been shopping around for a long time. This 383 (2000-2400 converter recommended) will best suit my budget and my needs:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3830ctc1s

If I went the TH350 route, can someone recommend one that would pair well with it, preferably through Summit? I honestly don't know much about kickdown and throttle valves, I see some with and some without. Also, I'd want one with the speedometer gear drive, unless that's easy/ cost effective to put in. I've put transmissions in, but aside from bolting the thing up I know very little :thumbsup:

Maybe something like this, but Id need to put a speedometer drive in it.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-113001/overview/
 

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The 2000 stall recommended with the 234/244 cam is not a good match at all. That combined with 3.08 gears makes it even worse. Another motor option to look at is the YEAR ONE CRATE 350. We put on in my buddies 73 Nova a few years back. It made like 411 hp and 430 ish tq. Its comes with ported Vortec heads and a nice 218/224 hyd roller cam. It runes excellent and has great street manners. If you want anymore infor let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The 2000 stall recommended with the 234/244 cam is not a good match at all. That combined with 3.08 gears makes it even worse. Another motor option to look at is the YEAR ONE CRATE 350. We put on in my buddies 73 Nova a few years back. It made like 411 hp and 430 ish tq. Its comes with ported Vortec heads and a nice 218/224 hyd roller cam. It runes excellent and has great street manners. If you want anymore infor let me know.
Yeah I'd like to know what that engine looks like, cost wise too! Originally I was going the 350 route, but just liked the idea of a 383 as Ive never had one and the extra torque would be fun to cruise around. I'm still open to a 350.

Originally this is what I was looking at, I liked that it had the serpentine kit and AC, and was mostly turn key. But wanted something closer to the 400hp/tq mark.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19210009
 

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Yeah I'd like to know what that engine looks like, cost wise too! Originally I was going the 350 route, but just liked the idea of a 383 as Ive never had one and the extra torque would be fun to cruise around. I'm still open to a 350.

Originally this is what I was looking at, I liked that it had the serpentine kit and AC, and was mostly turn key. But wanted something closer to the 400hp/tq mark.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19210009
No problem at all. Here is the one he has now.

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964-72-chevelle-monte-carlo-el-camino/ct350pc1....$3199

The also make one with aluminun edelbrock heads as well

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964-72-chevelle-monte-carlo-el-camino/at350pc1....$3699
 

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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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Thanks guys, all super helpful!
The 700r4 is now sounding a little tempting! I counted my main gears, 37, but forgot to count the others to find out the exact gearing I have, which I'll try to do tonight.
I'd like to get my order in this weekend for my engine, trans and some other goodies just to get the solid basics mounted, so it looks like a car again.

I called some local engine builders and have been shopping around for a long time. This 383 (2000-2400 converter recommended) will best suit my budget and my needs:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3830ctc1s

If I went the TH350 route, can someone recommend one that would pair well with it, preferably through Summit? I honestly don't know much about kickdown and throttle valves, I see some with and some without. Also, I'd want one with the speedometer gear drive, unless that's easy/ cost effective to put in. I've put transmissions in, but aside from bolting the thing up I know very little :thumbsup:

Maybe something like this, but Id need to put a speedometer drive in it.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-113001/overview/
You might check out ATK for one of their 383's. Chevelle guys get a discount too.

For a trans, you don't need anything special. I'm sure either a Summit or Jegs house brand trans is fine. Or the Tci Streetfighter, or a B&M....something rated for 450 hp. A basic 10" 2800-3000 converter. The speedometer gears are easy to do....online calcs to figure out what you need. With 3.08 gears you don't need any o/d trans really. I had the kick down plugged on mine, one less thing to leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The 2000 stall recommended with the 234/244 cam is not a good match at all. That combined with 3.08 gears makes it even worse. Another motor option to look at is the YEAR ONE CRATE 350. We put on in my buddies 73 Nova a few years back. It made like 411 hp and 430 ish tq. Its comes with ported Vortec heads and a nice 218/224 hyd roller cam. It runes excellent and has great street manners. If you want anymore infor let me know.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3830ctc1s

So with a stall converter it's more about matching it to everything and the gearing, not just a simple match to the engine and it's recommendation?
I'm fairly sure I have 3.08 I still need to confirm (10 bolt non posi, counted 37 teeth, but not the second gear yet). If that's the case what would be a good converter to run with that 383?
 

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No problem at all. Here is the one he has now.

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964-72-chevelle-monte-carlo-el-camino/ct350pc1....$3199

The also make one with aluminun edelbrock heads as well

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964-72-chevelle-monte-carlo-el-camino/at350pc1....$3699
Great little engine, I build them for them and they sell a crap load of them. Good Internals, Ported Dart heads, makes peak power around 5800RPM and very streetable....cant beat it.

Of course we have our line of engines as well that will suit the bill :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
OK, I got the numbers off my gear set and looked them up. It's 100% a 3.08 rear end.
So with 17" wheels and that link I posted 383, can someone recommend a good torque converter? The one the engine recommends on Summit says 2000-2400. But someone earlier mentioned that's not a good converter to run because of the gears. This is with a TH350 trans (Probably a Hughs or B&M).
 

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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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You should get your engine sorted out before the converter....getting a 2400 converter doesnt mean it will necessarily stall at 2400 in your car.... my last converter was 28-3200....stalled at 4000 with 3.31 then 3800 with 3.90.
 
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