[Davidmalibu]

hi
i need your help
my car is a 64 SS with ammeter
i don't want to use the ammeter anymore
so i disconnect the black and black/white wires
take off the ammeter shunt
run a +12v from the battery to the horn relay
using those schemes:

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/...ng diagrams/Chevrolet/MWireChev64_3WD-084.jpg

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/...ng diagrams/Chevrolet/MWireChev64_3WD-085.jpg

let me know if i made a mistake

my alternator is a new one from powermaster (factory style)
the external regulator is new too
my battery is a red optima
the problem is the alternator does not charge at all

i'm confused about the brown and brown/white wires (no generator indicator)
on my car they both go to the ignition switch

could you please tell me how to check the charging system ?


thanks
David

 

[Hiline51]

Pull the leads off of the guage and tie 'em together. My ammeter went bad and I just bypassed it. As I have a voltmeter on my aftermarket guage pak it's unecessary. All our old ammeters really told you was if the alternator or generator is charging. Is your new alternator internally regulated? If so you will have to redo the connections for the external one, or do away with it. There should be info in the tech threads somwhere on that process. If the ammeter shunt fails you will be dead in the water. :secret:

 

[Davidmalibu]

I use the external regulator
Here is my alternator:

http://www.powermasterperformance.co/item/Powermaster_7102_Natural/326/c61

 

[Hiline51]

You need to understand that the wiring diagram shows basic as well as SS options, etc. Ignore the gen indicator light circuit, it's not wired on our '64 SS'. Try what I suggested and see what you get.

 

[Davidmalibu]

How does the brown wire (from the regulator) work ?

When ignition is on, it should be a little bit less than the battery power because of the resistance wire from the coil, right ?

When the engine is running, i could verify than the value of the voltage on the black/white wire (at the alternator two wire connector) increase when the engine accelerates (from 200mV to 1V)

Please gentlemen, i need your help !

 

[aawtech]

hi
i need your help
my car is a 64 SS with ammeter
i don't want to use the ammeter anymore
so i disconnect the black and black/white wires
take off the ammeter shunt
run a +12v from the battery to the horn relay
using those schemes:

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/...ng diagrams/Chevrolet/MWireChev64_3WD-084.jpg

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/...ng diagrams/Chevrolet/MWireChev64_3WD-085.jpg

let me know if i made a mistake

my alternator is a new one from powermaster (factory style)
the external regulator is new too
my battery is a red optima
the problem is the alternator does not charge at all

i'm confused about the brown and brown/white wires (no generator indicator)
on my car they both go to the ignition switch

could you please tell me how to check the charging system ?


thanks
David

What harness do you have in the car? Who is the manufacturer? Is it old or new?

Bypassing the ammeter shunt will have ZERO bearing on the alternator charging or not charging.

The brown wire at voltage regulator is the trigger wire to turn the regulator "ON". It should have about 4-6 volts on it at the 4-way regulator connector. That wire marries with the brown and white resistance (10ohms) wire coming from the ignition switch to the dash bulkhead connector.

If you do not have voltage at the regulator connector, the regulator will not excite and thus turn on, therefore, you will have no charge output from the alternator. If this is the case, check voltage at the back of the ignition switch on the brown and brown with white stripe wire to be sure there is 12 volts there with the key "ON".

If you do have voltage there (4-6 volts), and the alternator refuses to charge with the kit "ON", then there is a very good likelihood that the regulator is bad.

Let me know what you find, and we'll take it from there.

Donny :beers:

 

[Davidmalibu]

I'm using factory harness
but a mix between a sedan and SS 64 Chevelle
dash harness from the SS
under the hood harness from the sedan
I used the sedan harnes because it was in best condition than the SS
I checked all the harness before reinstalling and so they all should be ok
I will check what you said and let you know
Thanks
David

 

[Davidmalibu]

What harness do you have in the car? Who is the manufacturer? Is it old or new?

Bypassing the ammeter shunt will have ZERO bearing on the alternator charging or not charging.

The brown wire at voltage regulator is the trigger wire to turn the regulator "ON". It should have about 4-6 volts on it at the 4-way regulator connector. That wire marries with the brown and white resistance (10ohms) wire coming from the ignition switch to the dash bulkhead connector.

If you do not have voltage at the regulator connector, the regulator will not excite and thus turn on, therefore, you will have no charge output from the alternator. If this is the case, check voltage at the back of the ignition switch on the brown and brown with white stripe wire to be sure there is 12 volts there with the key "ON".

If you do have voltage there (4-6 volts), and the alternator refuses to charge with the kit "ON", then there is a very good likelihood that the regulator is bad.

Let me know what you find, and we'll take it from there.

Donny :beers:

I found the problem !
I checked the voltage on brown and brown/white wires at the ignition switch I had 12v
I checked the brown wire at the regulator and it was 0v
I disconnected the 4-way regulator connector and then I had 12v on the brown wire
As I was removing the regulator from the radiator support i saw that the ground wire was not connected to the right place
There is a double connection pin under the regulateur body that is connect to the n°4 position (brown wire)
The ground wire was connected there !
I put everything back in place and now it's ok

Could you me explain what happens between the brown and brown/white wires and the black/pink wire (+white resistance wire) when the ignition switch is ON
Those wires are connected together and that's why you have 4-6 v on the brown wire of the regulator, right ?

I heard about electronic regulator
What do you think ?
Is it better than older models ?

Thanks
David

 

[aawtech]

I found the problem !
I checked the voltage on brown and brown/white wires at the ignition switch I had 12v
I checked the brown wire at the regulator and it was 0v
I disconnected the 4-way regulator connector and then I had 12v on the brown wire
As I was removing the regulator from the radiator support i saw that the ground wire was not connected to the right place
There is a double connection pin under the regulateur body that is connect to the n°4 position (brown wire)
The ground wire was connected there !
I put everything back in place and now it's ok

Could you me explain what happens between the brown and brown/white wires and the black/pink wire (+white resistance wire) when the ignition switch is ON
Those wires are connected together and that's why you have 4-6 v on the brown wire of the regulator, right ?

I heard about electronic regulator
What do you think ?
Is it better than older models ?

Thanks
David

Your car should not have black with pink print resistance wire anywhere in the harness. That was used later on the ignition system. It has a totally differrent resistance value than does the brown with white stripe. The white cloth covered wire is the ignition system resistance wire.t has a value of about 1.35 ohms. The brown with white stripe is the exciter wire for the regulator and has zero contact wiuth the other resistance circuit. It has a value of about 10 ohms on it.

As far as your decision to run mis-matched 50 year old harnesses in a car you're rebuilding, that is not a great idea, but is of course, your decision. Just being honest, sorry.

Donny