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I found out my factory gauge had a blown resistor (on the back of the gauge). It was mounted on wood from the factory. Makes me feel like I'm working on an ancient car!
I'm leaving for the power tour next Thursday so I'm getting stressed that I won't have a working gas gauge. I bought an aftermarket gauge and sending unit. Hooked everything up and it worked! That is until I stepped on the gas pedal and revved the engine that started the exciter in the alternator and I suppose gave me more amps/volts. Without the motor running it works great. The instructions are totally worthless.

What's happening here?

Is there something I can put on the power lead to keep things @ 12 volts and low amperage?
 

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I'm in and out today so maybe I can help some. Forget amps, they don't count with this problem. I'm assuming your aftermarket sender unit goes from 0 to 90 ohms. 0 ohms being empty, 45 ohms mid tank, and 90 full. Follow some of the steps in Wes's information. Also pick up a couple of resistors from Radio Shack if you haven't spotted the problem along the way. Pick up 1 45ohm and 1 90ohm. Without the sender wire tied to the gage connect the resistor from the sender terminal to ground to simulate the sender. See how things respond then. Those gages should work when the voltage goes up slightly. Something else is not quite right.

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref18.html
 

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After checking the stock original sending wire with a continuity checker I thought it was OK. NOT! It must have been grounded out somwhere. I ran a new wire from the tank to the gauge and it works great now. Thanks for being there John. It's really nice to know I can ask someone who actually knows automotive electric systems. You Da Man!
 

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Teach me to look here first instead of BS racing. Take at easy on the fast food stuff and suds on the Power Tour. It will give you gas anyway.
 
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