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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There's absolutely no way I'll pay $35 or more for a harmonic damper installation tool! It's ridiculous for a stock type damper.

Just thought I'd tell you about mine. I spent $5 for a piece of all-thread rod to screw into the crank snout. And maybe another 75 cents for a couple of washers and a nut.

Just grease up the all thread real good so the nut doesn't bind up, and press that baby on. It gets a little tough toward the end, but take it nice and easy and save yourself a few bucks.

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Chad Landry
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'68 El Camino
 

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That's what I did too, only I used the threaded rod of a gear puller I had that fit the BB crank. Works great.

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My '69 SS
 

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I was going to do the same thing Chad did, just a couple of days ago, but a friend of mine that was here at the time talked me into useing his new tool that he just got from Summit($49).After the bal. was about half on, the tool broke off in my crank.Had to drill it out without messing the threads up. what a pain.

[This message has been edited by CFR (edited 03-17-2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mine was regular grade and it worked fine.

It depends on just how tight your damper is.

Stock should work fine with this homemade tool.

If it's a performance damper with the undersize required for racing, I'd spend the money on a good installation tool.

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My Web Page (updated 2-19-02)

"America will endure!"

Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #04556
'68 El Camino
 

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Just use a machine grade threaded rod and I used moly lube (left over cam lube) to lube the threads. Have used it several times and the threads are still good.
 

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How do you stop the crank from spinning?
 

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How do you stop the crank from spinning?
I have used a long bolt in place of one of the pressure plate bolts in the flywheel.

The crank will turn until the bolt hits the bottom of the block near the starter-- (starter off)
 
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