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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was trying to follow the CHEV-HELL wiring diagram for the install of my windstar fans, But I can't find any 6 GA wire.

I have looked at the Auto parts stores, Hardware stores and a couple of electrical supply stores...No Go!

Any suggestions?

Tim
 
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Go to a welding supply house, they sell no. 6 welding lead. I use it for battery cable. I can't imagine a fan that needs that big a wire?



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In the year of the motor head 1955 GM created the small block and it was good. A decade later Flint brought forth the true rats, and it was good. In 1970 they screwed the pooch with the 454. I guess two out of three ain't bad!
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BLU69:
I was trying to follow the CHEV-HELL wiring diagram for the install of my windstar fans, But I can't find any 6 GA wire.

I have looked at the Auto parts stores, Hardware stores and a couple of electrical supply stores...No Go!

Any suggestions?
Tim
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Don't know where he is today but he must have been referring to a #6 AWG (American Wire Gage). It's a size of wire. Letters behind the number like 6THW 6TWN refer to the type of insulator. You don't want 000000 or "6 ott" welding wire. That's for starters.
#6 wire can be found at Home Depot.
 

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6 AWG for fans? Dang, what you cooling? 6 AWG is good for something like 65 amps! Not to mention it isn't going to like being bent around corners. You might want to rethink your requirements. What is the max current drawn by your fan(s)?
 
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70 amps! How ridiculous is that? I wonder what the continuous draw might be? You need two batteries and 100 amp alternator to keep up with the cooling fans.

I wonder what the Nascar guys do? I don't seem to remember any fans on those cars and the run wide ass open for 500 miles and don't overheat. I wonder what the secret is??

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Gold 67
In the year of the motor head 1955 GM created the small block and it was good. A decade later Flint brought forth the true rats, and it was good. In 1970 they screwed the pooch with the 454. I guess two out of three ain't bad!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Wally:
70 amps! How ridiculous is that? I wonder what the continuous draw might be? You need two batteries and 100 amp alternator to keep up with the cooling fans.

I wonder what the Nascar guys do? I don't seem to remember any fans on those cars and the run wide ass open for 500 miles and don't overheat. I wonder what the secret is??
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm with you Wally, I can't imagine needing 6 ga wire for windstar fans, I would think 10 ga would be ample

I wonder what size wire the windstar had from the factory
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thats not 6gauge straight to the fans. The diagram I am looking at shows 4-6 ga from the back of the alt to the Horn relay for a Positive source. I believe it is 10 ga at the fans themselves. Can't really tell from the diagram.

Tim
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Wally:
70 amps! How ridiculous is that? I wonder what the continuous draw might be? You need two batteries and 100 amp alternator to keep up with the cooling fans.

I wonder what the Nascar guys do? I don't seem to remember any fans on those cars and the run wide ass open for 500 miles and don't overheat. I wonder what the secret is??
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The secret is, at 180 mph you don't need a fan, it only gets in the way of the natural airflow.

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67 Nova 3475# daily driver
10:1 406, 700R4, 224° Comp cam, RPM and a Q-jet - 11.76 @ 116
64 Chevelle Road Racer
67 Nova Wagon under construction
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The fans will only be needed when the car is not moving fast enough for natural convection to provide sufficient cooling.

While the fans may require even hundreds of amps to start rotating, the real concern is for continuous draw. Wiring is rated for temperature rise over ambient at a specific, continuous current draw. Typically, high volume fans draw in the neighborhood of 20 amps continuous. Here is the rub-

The drawing posted has two fans. Assume both may run simultaneously. They share a common branch wire up to the horn relay. If each fan draws 20 amps, then you have 40 amps through that main supply branch wire. That would seem to validate the use of 8-6 awg for that branch feed wire. You could wire them separately to eliminate the need for such large gauge wire but then you'd need two relays...tradeoffs.

If you're going to add that kind of load, then you better check your total draw (everything on that can be on) to insure your power supply is up to the task...
 

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Ok, first of all, the way chev-hell has his wired up is with 6 guage from the positive post on the alternator to the horn relay, then 10 guage from the horn relay to each relay and then to the fan.

He got his 6 guage wire from a stereo shop and the wire is meant for powering an amplifier.

HOWEVER
I have the same fan setup installed in my car, and I just used a 10 guage wire from the back of the alternator (I recommend using a fusible link to to connect to the alternator) to the horn relay, and then 12 guage to the relay's and fans.

I VERY HIGHLY recommend you use a fusible link to connect to the battery or alternator, because that wire runs across the front of your car and if it ever wears through the insulation and contacts the frame you could end up with an electrical fire without the fusible link!!!

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'71 Malibu with a home built 454! [email protected]
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh YEAH!

Fusible link is a must have.

Thanks

Tim
 

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i HATE to throw a Monkey Wrench into the mix BUT.......... i've changed it all up, i have some new pics, im running 2 relays/ fan and cleaned it up, the fans wiring is basicly the same just a "clean" install using an old plastic Movie case
BUT i still use the heavy 6 guage from the alternator to the center connection (moved from horn relay to just a connector) then 10 from there. Give me a few minutes to upload and link the new pics, the install is MUCH nicer and ezier to change relays, i have found relay sockets too and cheap 40amp relays


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1970 SS396 AKA 454/4spd
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[This message has been edited by chev-hell (edited 12-04-2001).]
 

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ok http://members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/relay.jpg http://members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/relay1.jpg http://members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/relay2.jpg

the left side is the small fan, i have only 2 relays in now for 1 fan, the other 2 i've ordered, but are hooked up the exact same way. the exception is the ground trigger for the 2nd fan will be run off of a temp switch instead of the same RPM switch. but as you see i have room for 4 relays and 1 power source connection, i've also added the ground to the body just below with a wing-nut for ez removal.

red and yellow are both hot, (hot to fans and hot to relay switch) purple is the ground that activates the switch to turn the relay on, blue is the hot out to the fans,then the fans just ground to the wing-nut, you can buy the relays for $3 and sockets for $2.50 at RadioShack (has to be ordered, not in stock items) so around $25 total shipped to your door, the union (where the HOT connection is was just something i had laying around, ez to find at radioshack too. notice i braded the wire to keep it the same legnth etc. and keep wear the same on both relays, also makes it look better, soon i'll find something to slide over the top to cover it all up so you don't see any wiring


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1970 SS396 AKA 454/4spd
My Chev-Hell Page
GOLD Member #783
Ft.Worth, Tx
(OO=ss=OO)
 
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I don't know why more guys don't try the fan assembly from the GN Buick? I used one on the race car, comes with the shroud and moves a ton of air, made by GM and not DROF and 70 amps is not required to make it go.

Part numbers
hi low relay #25526984
shroud kit #22049524
fan kit #22040586
motor mount kit #22040196
fan motor #22062546
lower shroud bracket #25525430
resistor kit #22062558

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www.muncie4speed.com
Gold 67
In the year of the motor head 1955 GM created the small block and it was good. A decade later Flint brought forth the true rats, and it was good. In 1970 they screwed the pooch with the 454. I guess two out of three ain't bad!
 
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