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Got the ball rolling for this project. Picked up a T56, and went and hung out with my buddy that had the motor. Super clean, rotating assembly is nice. He has all the small parts he’ll give to me. Gonna be fun. Still haven’t 100% decided on the top end but I’ll probably build the short block and go from there.
What is the shortblock ? 5.3 , 6.0 or 6.2 ?
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Got the ball rolling for this project. Picked up a T56, and went and hung out with my buddy that had the motor. Super clean, rotating assembly is nice. He has all the small parts he’ll give to me. Gonna be fun. Still haven’t 100% decided on the top end but I’ll probably build the short block and go from there.
What is the shortblock ? 5.3 , 6.0 or 6.2 ?
L92 6.2. My buddy pretty much gave me a set of 243s so I’m going with those. And a Titan 4 LS1 cam
 

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If your going ls3 heads intake talk with BTR and it looks like you already have. He will get you a good setup. Cathedral vs rectangle will like a different cam for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
If your going ls3 heads intake talk with BTR and it looks like you already have. He will get you a good setup. Cathedral vs rectangle will like a different cam for sure.
Goin with 243 heads which are Cathedral
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I thought I’d update this thread. I got a summit 8707 cam, 226/238 @.50, 600/600 lift and 113 LSA. Got 799 heads that I am just going to to make reliable, .660 springs. I also got a seized complete 5.3 for $100 to take absolutely everything off of. LS7 clutch, cheap eBay exhaust manifolds because I’m tired of messing with headers and dirty dingo adjustable motor mounts.
 
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Your 6.0 block is a 4.00 inch bore, you have to run a LS3 type head 5.3 and 4.8 have smaller bores. There are tons of heads out there yours probably came with the 799 castings like my 6.0 did. I know 243 and 823 are good ones but trying to find them can be difficult. I went with GM performance LS3 CNC ported heads they were $1800 fully assembled and flow just as good as AFR and Trickflow for a lot less $$$. My friend has a 6.0 Lq9 (which is higher compression than your's) with a LS3 top end and a comp cam and that car makes over 500hp. I would definitely upgrade the oil pump to a mellings since your going to be in there
 

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Your 6.0 block is a 4.00 inch bore, you have to run a LS3 type head 5.3 and 4.8 have smaller bores. There are tons of heads out there yours probably came with the 799 castings like my 6.0 did. I know 243 and 823 are good ones but trying to find them can be difficult. I went with GM performance LS3 CNC ported heads they were $1800 fully assembled and flow just as good as AFR and Trickflow for a lot less $$$. My friend has a 6.0 Lq9 (which is higher compression than your's) with a LS3 top end and a comp cam and that car makes over 500hp. I would definitely upgrade the oil pump to a mellings since your going to be in there
Im running the 862s from a 5.3 on my 6.0. See how it goes in the spring...may step up to something better later. Still should be around 500hp.
 

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I thought I’d update this thread. I got a summit 8707 cam, 226/238 @.50, 600/600 lift and 113 LSA. Got 799 heads that I am just going to to make reliable, .660 springs. I also got a seized complete 5.3 for $100 to take absolutely everything off of. LS7 clutch, cheap eBay exhaust manifolds because I’m tired of messing with headers and dirty dingo adjustable motor mounts.
You'll have plenty of fun with the combo, good luck man. :thumbsup:

The LS7 clutch is like butter, I really like mine, has not let me down yet. Using stock throwout bearing/slave and Tilton 75 series master. Have close to 14k miles on the combo, just flushed the clutch fluid, couldn't ask for a better setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I thought I’d update this thread. I got a summit 8707 cam, 226/238 @.50, 600/600 lift and 113 LSA. Got 799 heads that I am just going to to make reliable, .660 springs. I also got a seized complete 5.3 for $100 to take absolutely everything off of. LS7 clutch, cheap eBay exhaust manifolds because I’m tired of messing with headers and dirty dingo adjustable motor mounts.
You'll have plenty of fun with the combo, good luck man. <img src="http://www.chevelles.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Thumbsup" class="inlineimg" />

The LS7 clutch is like butter, I really like mine, has not let me down yet. Using stock throwout bearing/slave and Tilton 75 series master. Have close to 14k miles on the combo, just flushed the clutch fluid, couldn't ask for a better setup.
What throwout bearing are you using? LS7 or LS1?
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Your 6.0 block is a 4.00 inch bore, you have to run a LS3 type head 5.3 and 4.8 have smaller bores. There are tons of heads out there yours probably came with the 799 castings like my 6.0 did. I know 243 and 823 are good ones but trying to find them can be difficult. I went with GM performance LS3 CNC ported heads they were $1800 fully assembled and flow just as good as AFR and Trickflow for a lot less $$$. My friend has a 6.0 Lq9 (which is higher compression than your's) with a LS3 top end and a comp cam and that car makes over 500hp. I would definitely upgrade the oil pump to a mellings since your going to be in there
799s and 243s are the same head. Going to have them milled for more compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
What throwout bearing are you using? LS7 or LS1?
Stock LS1 with Speedway Motors extension hoses/bleeder setup. Love it, can bleed the clutch from the engine bay.
Great, do you know what part number it is for the master cylinder? I was thinking of running the stock 98-02 Camaro one but tilton might be better.
 

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The problem I found with the f-body master was the funky angle you had on the mounting flange AND having to cut and weld the push rod after spending a fair chunk of $$ on it so it would fit our application. They're a lot of people running that setup though, you can buy a plate straight off of ebay that sandwiches in between your booster and firewall. I bought the plate but didn't end up using it. I made my own mounting bracket for the tilton using the 05 tahoe hydroboost mounting plate, a 2" pipe nipple for the body of the tilton, then a small piece of 1/4" plate and 2 bolts for the mounting face.

I'm running the .75" bore Tilton, I purchased the 75-750u so I had all the options when it came to mounting the reservoir and am glad I did. Went with the remote setup and have it mounted between wiper motor and hood springs. If you go this route make sure everything is final before you slide the hose on, it is a beast when it comes to gripping the barbs, once it's on it will never come back off without side cutting.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-75-750u/

I'd started out using the ebay plate to create a flat plate for the tilton:



Realize that would have caused an extremely short pedal stroke, so cut the mounting flange off of it:



Would have to go back through my build thread to confirm downward angle, but here's the next to finished product minus paint. It's not sema worthy, but results speak for themselves, it's still working. Also got a small heim joint from Summit when I purchased the Tilton, threaded rod and coupling nut from the hardware store.



 

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Discussion Starter #54
The problem I found with the f-body master was the funky angle you had on the mounting flange AND having to cut and weld the push rod after spending a fair chunk of $$ on it so it would fit our application. They're a lot of people running that setup though, you can buy a plate straight off of ebay that sandwiches in between your booster and firewall. I bought the plate but didn't end up using it. I made my own mounting bracket for the tilton using the 05 tahoe hydroboost mounting plate, a 2" pipe nipple for the body of the tilton, then a small piece of 1/4" plate and 2 bolts for the mounting face.

I'm running the .75" bore Tilton, I purchased the 75-750u so I had all the options when it came to mounting the reservoir and am glad I did. Went with the remote setup and have it mounted between wiper motor and hood springs. If you go this route make sure everything is final before you slide the hose on, it is a beast when it comes to gripping the barbs, once it's on it will never come back off without side cutting.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-75-750u/

I'd started out using the ebay plate to create a flat plate for the tilton:



Realize that would have caused an extremely short pedal stroke, so cut the mounting flange off of it:



Would have to go back through my build thread to confirm downward angle, but here's the next to finished product minus paint. It's not sema worthy, but results speak for themselves, it's still working. Also got a small heim joint from Summit when I purchased the Tilton, threaded rod and coupling nut from the hardware store.



You had to cut the master cylinder and re-weld it on to the bracket at an angle?
 

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You had to cut the master cylinder and re-weld it on to the bracket at an angle?
No no no, I'm sorry if that was confusing.

The stock f-body master cylinder has an angled mounting flange on it.



If you use it you'll need to figure out a way to deal with that flange when mounting it to your car. There's plenty of aftermarket support for it. McLeod, Detroit Speed, etc.

I found this plate on ebay and purchased it, planning on using the f-body master, it would have worked fine:

https://www.ebay.com/i/281291998925?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=281291998925&targetid=859612792543&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9009654&poi=&campaignid=2086087905&mkgroupid=88656282386&rlsatarget=pla-859612792543&abcId=1141016&merchantid=114812629&gclid=Cj0KCQiApaXxBRDNARIsAGFdaB9xYWNZc1TZTAHhIEWMOmMFCSXzQGkLrJPoc-qMYRWwDoDxfM-v-8caAiCQEALw_wcB

After I saw I had to cut the master pushrod and cut threads / weld / etc I went with plan B, the Tilton master cylinder. I was afraid I would heat up the brand new master and ruin it, the Tilton solved that issue.

I used the purchased f-body bracket as a template to create a flat bracket for the Tilton. Once I got it mocked up on the car, the tilton stroke is around 1". With the flat bracket the clutch pedal throw was very short.

That's when I mounted the tilton at a downward angle to give the clutch pedal enough throw. It's not perfect, some people will say it's wrong, but I've beat on it every way I can and it's still holding up fine.

If you do a search for fbody master cylinder bracket you'll find a lot of info on the web.
 

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I'm setting mine up with the F body master. I got the kit from McCloud, included mounting bracket and ready to use clutch rod. Also came with a clutch pedal.


Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #57

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Still requires the angled bracket like I linked above though(read the fine print). But that's pretty much my setup in a nutshell. The billet neck they have is the pipe nipple I welded to the hydroboost bracket. Many ways to skin a cat..

Keep .75" bore as your target then mainly you just have to worry about the angle of the master and the length of throw you have at the clutch pedal.
 
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