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Discussion Starter #3
Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the help. But I've read some of that before. He seems to want to make things more complicated then they could be, :confused: . I mean a 14 page instruction book on how to wire up an alternator? Wow!

It's just two wires right?

And a $28 kit? That's about $5 worth of wire.

Makes me want to just stick with a one wire type. ;)
 

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Originally posted by MarkM:
Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the help. But I've read some of that before. He seems to want to make things more complicated then they could be, :confused: . I mean a 14 page instruction book on how to wire up an alternator? Wow!

It's just two wires right?

And a $28 kit? That's about $5 worth of wire.

If so, how would you wire it up?

I've read this, http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref14.html (I hate that spiral bound graphic to the right that hides some of the test, )

So I'd assume you could just go #2 to batt post on alt, then run that strait to the + on the battery?

What about the #1 post? Where would that need to go? Any diodes or anything else that may be needed? Thanks


Makes me want to just stick with a one wire type. ;)
Well see the thing of it is if you're WRONG with an assumption POOF! Also there is more than just data on the wiring a CS in there. There also seem to be more than a few ?????? in your post. All that stuff is answered and or supplied in the Kit and the book. Then there is the mans time in getting all this info together.

Even if the book was only wiring a CS and since there is some hint that you might not have a CS (as per John Ms comment ) I suggest you do some reading before the fire / dead battery / cooked alternator or cooked internal regulator befall you.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oman, you sure are sensitive. Don't need your opinions, so POOF be gone! You probably the type to pay someone to have everything done on your car.

For those that did try to help. Thanks. I'm only making reference to the link I added. There is a #1 and #2 on the schmatic.


So we're clear. Lets say I want to wire up the DLG1346-5-11 as the link states. Anyone know how, without using the factory wiring harness?
 

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So before everyone poofs out. Do you have a CS or a SI alternator? No, ain't figuring out what that part number is.
 

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John

It's a CS130.

From Wes Vann's tech reference "I picked up my alternator from a local rebuilder however, the Autozone part number for it is DLG1346-5-11. It may be embarrassing, but if you tell them that you have a1988 Olds Firenza 2.0L engine with EFI and AC, you will get the correct one. (I wish I could tell you that it's for something exciting!!

Mark

If you look through the pile of info at oljeep.com you will find this diagram.

Attach a wire from switched ignition through a resistor, 10 ohm 1 watt, or an indicating light or both in parallel, as shown, to L on the alternator. The large post, alternator out goes to the horn relay or the battery, horn relay is best.
 

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Originally posted by MarkM:
Oman, you sure are sensitive. Don't need your opinions, so POOF be gone! You probably the type to pay someone to have everything done on your car.

POOF I am back ...don't ya hate it?????? Fact is I NEVER pay ANYONE to do ANYTHING. If I can't do it I learn how to do it or it does not get done. Your theory seems to be 24 page is just too much to read and getting the right parts the first time from someone who KNOWS what he is doing is too much effort and money.

There are people here who know what they are doing and there are a lot more who don't have a clue. Electrical stuff is rather unforgiving and expensive for my taste. If you research the archives....another tool that might take to long for you) you would find that I asked a lot of questions. Soome were dumb and some were redundant but before I started makin new wires I was sure what I was doing with this conversion before I did it.

Guys like Elree andn John M were both very helpful and you're lucky you have their attention on this one. The guy at MAD must have given me an hour of his time over the phone helping me understand the what and why and why not of making this swap. It is all in the BIG BOOK but he took the time anyway. After putting in the wiring as outlined in the BIG BOOK and carefully double checking everything I turned the key and it worked just like it was supposed to. I hope you can make the same claim when you are done.

John and Elree and some other guys really know the electronics. Some of the other "rodders" here should stick to putting gas in their cars and fooling around in the burnout contests.

Have it your way though ask a few questions, slam someone elses product and wire her up. How much can another CS cost say $100.00?????

Poof! GONE
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is rediculous. I just asked a simple question about how to wire up an alternator.

He can post all he wants. I couldn't care less. But I said, I don't need HIS opinions. So I'd appreciate him staying out of MY post. That's all I asked. Go read some of his other post. Seems very full of himself.

Go back and read his post. He didn't offer any help to my question. So why even post a reply?

Maybe I don't want to buy the MAD kit. And do it without it. Big deal, no need to get sensitive about it. Heck, maybe I should just pay someone to build the whole car, then I'll never have to ask another question. :rolleyes:

I thought that was the point of this message forum!
 

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Dean

I am gonna do it again so be ready!

Ya can lead a horse to water but ya can't make him drink. What I read here is an inquiry from someone who rejected one of the best pieces of info I have seen available and in effect said "just give me the wire connection points".

The first assumption about running a wire from the alt to the bat. is wrong. Given that as a starting point then bad mouthin the tech ref. section and the Book / kit seems a little reactionary.

In installing a CS you don't run any wire to the battery, you need to run a sensing wire that will trigger the internal alternator (else it won't start and therefore won't charge) and one of the wires to the started should be of a smaller guage than the wire going to the distribution block from the alt. Also the large wire from the alt must be a heavier guage than the original and the wire from the distrib block to the started must be slightly smaller guage than the one from the alt. to the block. That is really all the data ya need to string some wires but the devil is in the detail as they say.

I like to know WHY these mods are needed, how it works when it is done, what guage is required, what the sensing wire does and where it should be connected for optimal performance. My comments were coming from my usual practive of asking asking why in order to learn, not just how in order to do. I read: "quick tell me how, the book is over inflaed and there is only $5.00 worth of wire there anyway.

I did not know any of this when I started this CS conversion and in fact I could not tell a CS from an SI or talk about why one was better or worse than the other. I learned a lot form Jon M and Elree and MAD and hope that everyone considering this swap avails himself of all the info available. Funny thing is as I researched it all I found omissions and errors in several sources (Not Elree or John and not MAD and in reconciling those things I picked out I learned more.

You can lead a ..........
 

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Originally posted by MarkM:
You two must be incahoots. The post was locked, and then all of a sudden it was unlock. I guess so Oman just can get one last jab it. Real classy.

So why the lock and then unlock?

Oman, since you're such a pro, and do "everything" yourself. Post some pics of some of your builds.
Don't know what's going on here. This post was never locked because I didn't lock it nor unlock for anyone. But since the question is answered there's no reason to leave it open so now I'm just going to close it.
 
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