[Big James 4XL]

Anybody know which year/years are prefered for conversions? I think they came in 2500/3500 Gm trucks in 91.

Who makes controllers for them?

Any Comments suggestions?

And NO, I'm not interested in a 200R or 700R !!!:sad::sad:

 

[Dave]

They came in alot more then just Those. I got on in My wife's DD. I'm not too sure of the Year's needed, but I think it's pretty broad.

I have seen the controoler, One was VERY expensive, and one was pretty cheap. I believe also, that if You want to shift it Yourself, You can bypass a controller.

I'll be watching this closely, as I'd really like to do a 4L80E conversion also. I've heard it's the strongest of the 4 speed O.D.'s.

 

[brimac]

Anybody know which year/years are prefered for conversions? I think they came in 2500/3500 Gm trucks in 91.

Who makes controllers for them?

Any Comments suggestions?

And NO, I'm not interested in a 200R or 700R !!!:sad::sad:

Here's an "older" thread on the subject. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156526.

As far as controllers, the two that seem to be mentioned the most are, Comp-U-Shift & TCI, ..although there are others. A laptop is needed for the TCI. The C-U-S has it's own display, so no laptop is needed. That's what I'll be using. If the installation and user guide is available online, at their website, ...take a look. With it's own display, there are some great features.

 

[Big James 4XL]

I see that TCI has a controller for less than $750. I think a boneyard unit with a good basic rebuild can be done that will live behind a mild 454 like mine and I'm hoping to keep a budget of $2000 or less. The hardware to run a mechanical speedometer, a good torque converter, and other items for the install may push it beyond that though.

I've seen trashed 2500 GM trucks real cheap that have good running gear for cheap so I'm hoping for a deal on a usable unit.

 

[Big James 4XL]

Thanks!!!

I e mailed for info on the comp u shift set up. I have a laptop so it's not a big deal but if the other unit isn't too pricey that could be an option.

Keep the comments coming, my 700R4 has got to go!!!

 

[rianbechtold]

I see that TCI has a controller for less than $750. I think a boneyard unit with a good basic rebuild can be done that will live behind a mild 454 like mine and I'm hoping to keep a budget of $2000 or less. The hardware to run a mechanical speedometer, a good torque converter, and other items for the install may push it beyond that though.

I've seen trashed 2500 GM trucks real cheap that have good running gear for cheap so I'm hoping for a deal on a usable unit.

I've found some pretty good deals on them. The parts do not come cheap though. Performance converter and rebuild kit can set you back $1000 easily.

 

[brimac]

Thanks!!!

I e mailed for info on the comp u shift set up. I have a laptop so it's not a big deal but if the other unit isn't too pricey that could be an option.

Keep the comments coming, my 700R4 has got to go!!!

FYI, The Comp-U-Shift has a speedometer mode in it's display. I think electric to mechanical adaptors, or modified tail pieces, will also bite into your budget. A decent converter may likewise "stress" the wallet. For my application, 10.70's (hopefully), I'm looking at $750 for a converter.

 

[LeoP]

James, unless you have some kind of hookup, the rebuild could cost in the area of $2500. Good luck with your project.

 

[forcd ind]

your better off getting the later models, as they made a lot of changes thru the years, including a rib down the back, as some earlier models had pres runaway, and can crack the cases-they sell a lot of stuff to correct the problems
i scored a 2005, which also has the 12 o clock bolt hole(good for ls motors) from a chev mech for $150, just has burnt clutches
the later models have the trans cooler lines a little further back, but you can get around that
they are heavier than a 400, im guessing around 30 lbs more

 

[Big James 4XL]

i scored a 2005, which also has the 12 o clock bolt hole(good for ls motors) from a chev mech for $150, just has burnt clutches
the later models have the trans cooler lines a little further back, but you can get around that
they are heavier than a 400, im guessing around 30 lbs more

So the later models will fit 350/454 engines and LS engines?

I'm hoping to get a break and find a solid transmission to begin with and not have to rebuild it right away. I'm prepared to buy a proper converter and controller. Even if I can't get a good unit to start with I do know a good rebuilder that will treat me right though, and I'm not above rebuilding it my self if it comes to that.

If none of this comes to pass due to a lot of expense to go with the 4l80 then I'll just save my money and go th400 and a gear venders. But the 700r I have now is going to be history at some point.

 

[forcd ind]

nothings cheap anymore, lol
at one time i was looking at the gear vendors, but never thought it was a good performance option, if you are running a lose converter-out on the road you might not have enough rpm's to keep the converter from slipping some, building up heat in the trans-an option would be a little tighter converter, and lower gears, might help with converter lock up
that is why i like the od trans, you can lock up the converter out on the road, and eliminate the slippage problem-never have figured out why gm or someone did not make a heavyduty version of the 700, like a 350 to 400, no computer needed
of course, you could build a manuel shift 4l80e, but would have to shift all the time

 

[BLT4FN]

But the 700r I have now is going to be history at some point.

Just wondering why??

 

[buddyholly]

The later the better with the 4l80e but even the very early ones can be built plenty strong for our applications. The later models have a lot of mods most of which really only apply to towing durability.
I have run my 4l80e with the TCI controller and Precision Industries torque converter for a year and a half. Zero problems and I cannot express how much better I like it than my 700r4.
Rebuild cost vary but $2500 seems a bit high. I build mine myself and replaced all the soft parts including sensors and wiring for around $500. Core cost me $200. If you need a good core ask a local tranny shop if they have one or if they can order you one. Two places around here could order them from some supplier up north.
I think my total cost was less than $2000 if I remember correctly.

 

[Big James 4XL]

Just wondering why??

The first one I had was a stock one from the boneyard and it lasted a couple of years behind a stock 350. I expected it to go bad, but, even though I made some mods to it I was never happy with the way it shifted.

The one I have now is a Bowtie Overdrives level 3 that's suposed to handle a BBC like mine with no problem. I installed it in March of 03 with my current 454. I performed all the pressure checks and followed BTOs instructions to the letter and was blessed with thier one year warranty. The odometer was reading about 11,000 miles then and it's showing 29,000 now. The tranny was OK but never shifted as firmly into 3rd as I liked. I spent many hours adjusting and readjusting the tv cable trying to find a "sweet spot" between an acceptable street shift point/firmness and a wide open TH 400 turbo kind of shift into 3rd at the track. Last year I made a few runs down the local track and noticed the shift into 3rd had a momentary delay(like kicking in a clutch)but it shifted ok but didn't slip. A month ago after a head upgrade to the 454 I went for a shake down run and that's when the slipping in 3rd started. I went down the track a couple of times while at CB08 and found the shift delay/slipping to be getting worse.

So to make a long story short I'm not happy with a transmission that simply can not perform as good as an old TH350 or TH400. I've beat on the old 350/400s as hard as you can and rarely had a problem.

Don't get me wrong, I love an overdrive and will have one in some form, but the 700r just doesn't cut it with me anymore.

I have seen that TCI now has a valve body that maintains a steady pressure,
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/gm/gm_4L60E.asp ,
But I don't know if that's the answer to the problem or not. It still requires a tv cable to regulate part throttle shifts.

I guess I should call BTO and see what they say about the valve body. I hesitate though because they seem to have an attitude, like, they designed the wheel, and I'm not going to listen to much of that.

The bottom line, if I can convert to a 4l80e without going broke, I'm going to give one a try.

 

[Big James 4XL]

The later the better with the 4l80e but even the very early ones can be built plenty strong for our applications. The later models have a lot of mods most of which really only apply to towing durability.
I have run my 4l80e with the TCI controller and Precision Industries torque converter for a year and a half. Zero problems and I cannot express how much better I like it than my 700r4.
Rebuild cost vary but $2500 seems a bit high. I build mine myself and replaced all the soft parts including sensors and wiring for around $500. Core cost me $200. If you need a good core ask a local tranny shop if they have one or if they can order you one. Two places around here could order them from some supplier up north.
I think my total cost was less than $2000 if I remember correctly.

Thanks for the info!!! I haven't been hanging out at the boneyards much lately but I remember seeing quite a few donor vehicles in the u-pull-it yards around here in the past.

I figure a good soft parts rebuild, a converter and the controller could be had for what you're saying, so wish me luck!!!:thumbsup:

What part of SC you in?

 

[buddyholly]

I am in the upstate of South Carolina. Spartanburg to be exact.
I am really happy with my 4l80e. I have beaten on it pretty good and it never seems to care. I was always nervous with the 700r4 and never trusted it like I trust the 4l80e.

 

[Big James 4XL]

I've never been happy with having to adjust the tv cable to get the shifts I want and the 2-3 shift has never been what I thought it should be.

I have a little time to see what turns up before I have to do anything. I am considering the TCI constant pressure valve body and a soft parts rebuild on the 700 but I haven't heard of anyone using the valvebody so I don't know if that's the cure or not.

I called Bowtie Overdrives and got their usual attitude blaming it on the tv adjustment blah blah blah. One of their guys says the valve body is a good thing but he refered me to a "Tech" who says that's all wrong and insisted I need the tv made easy kit they have. Funny thing is when I told him about the linkage adapter I got from them(still have their printed instructions and pictures)he said that was no good, I HAD to have the tv made easy deal.

So anyway, I'm still looking for a 4l80 core and see where that takes me.

Thanks for your input, maybe our paths will cross in SC sometime!!!:thumbsup:

 

[buddyholly]

I've heard about the constant pressure valve body and from what I understand it is little more than another band aid. I have build a few 700r4's and understand the TV valve better than I care to. It actually does double duty, controlling the pressure to rise with throttle pressure and control shift points. The constant pressure valve body removes the pressure control and leaves the TV cable just controling shift points. The problem is the constant pressure valve body over stresses the pump and the valve body circuit when there is no need for full pressure. The other issue is the 3-4 clutches are put under pressure through the steel apply fingers that are unable to clamp any tighter no matter how much pressure you apply. So the constant valve body really is not a cure, only another band aid. I have not messed with one but I have heard a few stories about them and they are not a good choice.