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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, Skip and I started my first true engine build. We worked from about 10am-6:30pm on it Sunday. It is going to take a while because Skip is taking the time to explain everystep so I will know the next time that I try this on my own. We have the complete rotating assembly from Wolfplace. We cleaned everything...from the brand new ARP bolts, washers, bearings, block, etc.... We painted the block Chevy Orange. Then his buddy comes over and helped to check all the clearances. I think here are all the clearances we checked.

1. File fit rings, top ring .022
2. Main Bearing .002-.003, end play .005-.007
3. Rod Bearing .002-.003, we checke the side clearance but don't remember.
4. The piston set in the hole. 015

I think everything was good to go and Skip can chime in if I got one of the specs wrong. I am trying to remember off the top of my head. I think the only clearance left to check is the piston to valve clearance, but heads are opened chambered so hopefully won't be any problems. Once my oil pan comes in we may have this together by next weekend. At about the same time my car is getting finished painted. Can't wait!

Oh yeah Skip grinded some casting off the block and told me this will make it an even 500 cubic inch motor now......Just kidding!:hurray:
 

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Delbert,

Nothing like building your own engine that you can be proud of when finished and fire that beast up the first time! And buying rotating assembly from Mike-Wolfplace you know that parts are of the best quality! Have fun!

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I am definitely enjoying it. The best part is when I get to talk like I know what I am doing. lol For instance, we hadn't measured the piston to valve clearance yet but I "told" Skip that we should be okay since I have opened chambered heads and am using the SRP pistons, they have bigger valve reliefs. Of course he just giggled a little.

I am paying attention.
 

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Well, Skip and I started my first true engine build. We worked from about 10am-6:30pm on it Sunday. It is going to take a while because Skip is taking the time to explain everystep so I will know the next time that I try this on my own. We have the complete rotating assembly from Wolfplace. We cleaned everything...from the brand new ARP bolts, washers, bearings, block, etc.... We painted the block Chevy Orange. Then his buddy comes over and helped to check all the clearances. I think here are all the clearances we checked.

1. File fit rings, top ring .022
2. Main Bearing .002-.003, end play .005-.007
3. Rod Bearing .002-.003, we checke the side clearance but don't remember.
4. The piston set in the hole. 015

I think everything was good to go and Skip can chime in if I got one of the specs wrong. I am trying to remember off the top of my head. I think the only clearance left to check is the piston to valve clearance, but heads are opened chambered so hopefully won't be any problems. Once my oil pan comes in we may have this together by next weekend. At about the same time my car is getting finished painted. Can't wait!

Oh yeah Skip grinded some casting off the block and told me this will make it an even 500 cubic inch motor now......Just kidding!:hurray:
=
Hi Delbert
Sounds like things are lookin up ;)
Glad to hear everything is rolling along & you are having fun & that you have someone there to help you with the "small stuff"

Thanks again & any questions just hollar
BTW, if you have not set the gaps yet I would suggest .019-.020 top & .022-.023 second unless you are planning on some nitrous
If you are already at .022 top don't fret it, you are fine
A little too big is way better than a little too small :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
We set it for nitrous. I think for Nitrous we went with the smaller of the range .022-.026 but not a 100% sure. I think he said that it probably would be a little big when not running nitrous and might see a little blow by.

Everything is going together nicely though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Specs:
454 out of an 81-1 ton truck .060

Stroker assembly bought and balanced from Wolfplace:Scat Cast Crank
6.385 H beam bushed capscrew rods
Clevite 77 bearings
Sealed Power File fit ductile moly rings
SRP 18cc dome forged pistons
Chrome moly pushrods
Comp Cam Magnum roller tip rockers
292 Cast Iron Heads, 2.19/1.88 Steel valves, hardened seats, competition valve job, milled
7 Qt Oil Pan
Melling HV Oil Pump, steel shaft and sleeve
Lunati 40208 Solid Lift Cam
Summit 1 3/4 Headers
Barry Grant 850 Speed Demon
Victor Jr 454 "O" intake, 2" spacer/adaptor
HEI
MSD6AL
Complete ARP Engine Bolts/washers
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have no idea and really don't care. I just want it to be a wicked fast street car! Maybe someothers can chime in on what they think it will make. However, I forgot who said it but I totally agree with it....I would rather have a 400hp car that runs 10's then a 600hp car that runs 12's. I figure I am somewhere in between.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The bottom end is done and all clearances are good. The piston to valve clearance was well within the window. We are finishing the build of the engine tomorrow and the only thing holding it up is the oil pan. It hasn't arrived yet! I am going to check with Mike to see about an alternative.

The car is all painted, wetsanded, buffed, polished, and delivered to my house. It now resides in my garage and is absolutely beautiful! Went with Galaxy Silver Pearl Metallic with wider than normal rally stripes that are on the roof also. The hood turned out awesome! Still looks like an SS hood except three inches taller. Car shines like glass. I will finish detailing up the engine compartment, put the radiator in, MSD box in glove compartment, and fuel cell in. All this week. Hopefully, will be dropping motor in next Sunday. Then work on interior. I will try and get pics posted by Monday evening.

Skip is doing awesome on my engine and Stanley did way better on my car then I ever dreamed it would look. Thanks to all. Now Wolfplace motor will have a car to live in that is worthy.
 
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