Scooter,
The only 400 I have left is a 2bolt and I am kicking myself now for not latching onto all the 2bolts that came my way in the past. Nothing at all wrong with a 4bolt, but for a SERIOUS sb400, the best way to go is a 2bolt and then use aftermarket splayed 4bolt caps (all the 4bolts that I have are in cars, a pickup and a boat).
DJ,
I wouldn't let it go. But if you do, assuming the block and crank are useable, MINIMUM, $100 for each. The rest is worth very little, not even the rods. When you build a 400 you really want to at least use the 5.7in 350 rods, and git rid of the shorter 400 rods. There are plenty of pistons, at a good price, available for a 400 with 5.7 rods.
Cam,
I promise, 2 or 3 freeze plug blocks will not necessarily indicate 2 or 4bolt. I have 2 blocks with the same casting number, which are 2 and 4bolt and they have 3 plugs. The best way to determine 2 or 4bolt is to remember that 70-72 cars had 4bolt only and 73-later cars have 2bolt only. The 2bolt block I have is an Aug 72 casting which means it PROBABLY was in a very early 73 car. And that 74 Monty, for me to be convinced, I would need to see a casting date of July 72-earlier, AND the VIN number of the 74 Monty on the stamp pad.
Everybody,
If you are going to build a sm bk, you really can't go wrong with a 400. There is no substitute for cubic inches, and if it is necessary or desireable for whatever reason to have a sm block (such as a 100% bolt-in swap for a 57 Chevy) then it is the perfect engine. I just do NOT see over heating problems if the cooling system is in good shape. I don't mean to offend, but I ablolutely do not understand the 383 reasoning. Leave that 400 crank in the 400 block, bore it .030, BAM! 406 inches, and the rebuild cost is within a few $ of a 350 rebuild!
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